|
|
|
|
aggiejon
Jun 24, 2005, 4:08 PM
Post #1 of 8
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2005
Posts: 18
|
I had this idea, might have been done though. I have seen people use a munter hitch tied off the anchor to belay a second. I was thinking that if you had something to hold onto the brake end hanging down the wall you would essentially have an autoblock. So I was thinking a prusik connected to an opposed anchor that protects against the upward pull of the brake line. All the belayer would need to do is pull the slack through the prusik. In the event of the fall the prusik would hold onto the brake line, and the munter would stop the fall. I have not done this because i am not sure of teh stregth of a prusik, since it is ussually just for bodyweight, and also, in the case of the second falling, the belayer would have a pain removing the tension and lowering. Whats your opinion, interesting idea or dangerous? And yes I know, don't trust everything I hear on the forum, and I will preemptiovely lable myself a nOOb.
|
|
|
|
|
flipnfall
Jun 24, 2005, 4:14 PM
Post #2 of 8
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717
|
One thing to remember about the Munter hitch, is that it is hard on the rope sheath. Ropes are prematurely worn down by rubbing against their own surfaces. However, what you are proposing would work. A Prusik is not a fail-proof friction "knot," so although it will work in most cases, there are times where it may slip. You must be ever attentive to a Prusik.
When trying to lock of a rappell or belay, I've routinely tied a loop knot and clipped it to my belay loop on my harness. This will prevent any possible slipping found in a Prusik.
I think everyone should get familiar with the Munter hitch because there are times where I've dropped my rap/belay device and needed to rap down using the Munter. It has proven to be a most useful thing.
GT
|
|
|
|
|
wings
Jun 24, 2005, 4:17 PM
Post #3 of 8
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 283
|
If I'm understanding you correctly, then this method would be awkward as it would require 3 hands to use effectively ... one to pull the climber's end of the rope, one to pull the brake end of the rope, and one to slide the prussik.
I suppose you could do this as a two step thing ... normal munter operation, but an extra step of one hand on the brake end while the other hand slides the prussik up.
The strength of the prussik here would not be an issue as you only have to simulate a brake hand.
Not sure why you'd want to go to all this trouble though. The munter already holds falls quite well without much effort, and it's easy to tie off.
- Seyil
|
|
|
|
|
slobmonster
Jun 24, 2005, 4:42 PM
Post #4 of 8
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
|
In reply to: Not sure why you'd want to go to all this trouble though. The munter already holds falls quite well without much effort, and it's easy to tie off.
Learn and use the Munter, by all means, but also learn how to tie it off with a mule knot.
|
|
|
|
|
aggiejon
Jun 24, 2005, 4:49 PM
Post #5 of 8
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2005
Posts: 18
|
Mule knot? never heard of it. Although that might be the same thing as what I have called the muinter tie off.
|
|
|
|
|
reg
Jun 24, 2005, 5:34 PM
Post #7 of 8
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
buy a reverso - great piece of gear
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Jun 24, 2005, 6:25 PM
Post #8 of 8
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
how about learn to rappell properly with a tube style device and just use a regular autoblock?
K.I.S.S.-- don't make it any harder than it has to be.
and, if your second is that gripped, go down first (after setting them up) and put 'em on a fireman's belay.
|
|
|
|
|
|
