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Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion
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Partner phaedrus


Jul 5, 2005, 10:36 PM
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Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion
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Mike and Mark Anderson have free climbed the classic aid route Spaceshot in Zion National Park (Utah) rating it at 5.13a, following several variations to the standard eight-pitch climb. The crux came at the fourth pitch, the first of the route’s aid pitches, where Tim Kemple, Justin Sjong and Adam Stack had placed eight bolts hoping to face climb right of the aid line before they ran out of time.

After working on the fourth pitch on June 15th, the brothers decided to go for a one-day approach to the free climb, taking five bolts for variations higher on the route if they managed the crux free. Mike managed the fourth pitch on his first try on the 16th; Mark followed it clean. Two pitches of 5.12 and one pitch of 5.11 followed, mostly following Spaceshot’s splitter leaning cracks, with ever-increasing exposure. At the final bolt ladder, Mark free climbed to a small ledge three bolts from the top but fell several times from the final moves. Mike aided to the top and explored a line of holds to the left. Deciding this variation was the way to go, he hand-drilled three bolts and returned to the ledge to belay Mark, who flashed the variation at 5.12a. In all, the route has one 5.13 pitch and four 5.12 pitches, including the two-part final pitch.


http://www.alpinistas.org/...eshot/spaceshot1.jpg

http://www.climbing.com


andy_reagan


Jul 6, 2005, 3:24 PM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Very inspirational! Free climbing big walls, in my opinion, is the coolest style of climbing.

Way to go bros!

Peace
Andy


zozo


Jul 6, 2005, 3:33 PM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Ahhh so that's where you have been!!

Congrats you guys!


takeme


Jul 6, 2005, 3:52 PM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Obviously a tremendous accomplishment, but I'm confused because I thought that Stack and Sjong had already freed it. At least that was what a good friend of Justin's told me. Was I misinformed??


usmc_2tothetop


Jul 6, 2005, 4:07 PM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Wow. I'm trying to imagine what it must have been like on that last part. Tired but knowing you're so close. And what a great relationship between 2 brothers. Congrats to them.


brianinslc


Jul 6, 2005, 5:36 PM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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I just knew there was such thing as a "rockprodigy"! Way to go, boyz!

You can take the boy out of Utah...but...(guess there's nothing to climb in CO...ha ha...).

Brian in SLC


Partner j_ung


Jul 7, 2005, 7:13 AM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Way to go, Mike!


rickrock77


Jul 7, 2005, 7:40 AM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Now that is what I call climbing!!


epic_ed


Jul 7, 2005, 5:34 PM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Very nice job. Having aided this line a couple of months ago, I can't imagine even having the ability to free climb that P4 variation or the final vertical section to the top. Amazing effort, guys.

Ed


dangle


Jul 8, 2005, 8:40 PM
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Re: Anderson brothers free climb Spaceshot in Zion [In reply to]
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Anybody can free an Olevsky route (except of course Olevsky). Bet those MANUFACTURED scars made for better locks. Too bad they were DELIBERATE instead of inadvertant.

(Enough already with the "other guy's moccasins".)
Wonder if the holds will last (not that anybody cares NOW.)


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