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Anchor Analysis: THE ANCHOR
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Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 9:06 AM
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Anchor Analysis: THE ANCHOR
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EDIT: New and improved with more higher quality shots!!!

Is this bomber?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57144

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57145

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57146

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57149

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57150

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57153

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57152

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57073

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57067

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=57151

Comments? Critiques? Please help, we want to know if we are Real Trad Climbers. Does THE ANCHOR make us Real Trad Climbers?


jt512


Jul 7, 2005, 9:10 AM
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The angle of the anchor legs holding the toilet paper is excessive. This can result in force multiplication when the climber attempts to pull toilet paper from the roll.

-Jay


reg


Jul 7, 2005, 9:13 AM
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thanks for that - made me laugh. i love the bro - looks like it's supporting the rock.


Partner jammer


Jul 7, 2005, 9:13 AM
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In reply to:
The angle of the anchor legs holding the toilet paper is excessive. This can result in force multiplication when the climber attempts to pull toilet paper from the roll.

-Jay

I must agree with jt .. a big bro placed carefully in the toilet papers inner tube would help stabalize the pulling effect on the anchor.

Alan


steamboatclimber


Jul 7, 2005, 9:13 AM
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The cooler should be above the toilet paper.


keinangst


Jul 7, 2005, 9:14 AM
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That depends...are those ham sandwiches?

If so, you're good.


shakylegs


Jul 7, 2005, 9:15 AM
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No helmets?
That Nalgene is too far off to the right, setting up for a dangerous situation if you need to wash down those sammitches.
Why the headlamp?


wjca


Jul 7, 2005, 9:16 AM
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I'd totally rap off that. And hang my cooler on that. And hang my toilet paper on that.

Why didn't you bring that double burner Coleman stove to hang on it as well? Pussy.

Did you inspect all your gear for microfractures before you placed it?

I particularly like how you placed that rock next to the bigbro so the big cam would fit. Thats totally bomber, and very resourceful. Did you know about the placement and thus carried the rock as part of your rack, or did you luck upon finding the rock already near there and the cam just seemed to be made for the spot?

You are a hardcore trad climber, my friend.


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 9:18 AM
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In reply to:
That depends...are those ham sandwiches?

If so, you're good.

Yes, they are most certainly Ham Sandwiches. Except for Elaine's. She's a vegetarian, so she's eating a cucumber, cheese, tomato, and mustard sandwich. But Sean, Sheila and I were having Ham.


Partner j_ung


Jul 7, 2005, 9:19 AM
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:lol: :lol:

Nice!


wings


Jul 7, 2005, 9:19 AM
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I think that anchor is heavier than I am. I'm guessing it would likely support my weight.

- Seyil


justhavefun


Jul 7, 2005, 9:20 AM
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For clarification, the toilet paper is hanging on a nut tool, just in case those ham sandwiches don't, uh... process correctly...


chanceboarder


Jul 7, 2005, 9:23 AM
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sweet! thats got to go in the next climbing anchors book :lol:


skinnyclimber


Jul 7, 2005, 9:26 AM
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[sarcasm] I don't know, I may be just a beginner, but it looks like one of the 'biners in the bottom photo is being loaded over an edge. Therefore I believe the whole anchor is suspect...[/sarcasm] :lol:


sarcat


Jul 7, 2005, 9:29 AM
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You didn't protect against extension.... all types of extension. So you're not SERENE. And you have left over cams so something can't be right.


dingus


Jul 7, 2005, 9:35 AM
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In reply to:
[sarcasm] I don't know, I may be just a beginner, but it looks like one of the 'biners in the bottom photo is being loaded over an edge. Therefore I believe the whole anchor is suspect...[/sarcasm] :lol:

If you have to delineate your sarcasm... it isn't sarcasm.

DMT


landgolier


Jul 7, 2005, 9:36 AM
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Automatic DQ for owning 3 grand worth gear that's all brand new.


skinnyclimber


Jul 7, 2005, 9:39 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
[sarcasm] I don't know, I may be just a beginner, but it looks like one of the 'biners in the bottom photo is being loaded over an edge. Therefore I believe the whole anchor is suspect...[/sarcasm] :lol:

If you have to delineate your sarcasm... it isn't sarcasm.

DMT

My bad I was trying to be funny...

Can I get a STFU nOOb?


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 9:41 AM
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In reply to:
Automatic DQ for owning 3 grand worth gear that's all brand new.

Sean, how much of our gear was brand new?

I believe only the BigBro, and the #6 were really new. My cams are all about 7 months old, nice and scratched up. Sean's have definitely been used.

We do, however, feel guilty we couldnt place the fifth and sixth #3 C4's. We had way too much gear left over. Does this compromise the integrity?

Oh, the blue-green hybrid in the bottom shot was a gift Sean gave me. That's brand new.


landgolier


Jul 7, 2005, 9:50 AM
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I was just kidding, along the lines of "it doesn't matter how many ham sandwiches you eat, you're not a trad climber unless half your cams are milled friends." I wish all my shit was c4's, shiny aliens, wiregates, and unfuzzed mammut 8mm slings.

In reply to:
In reply to:
Automatic DQ for owning 3 grand worth gear that's all brand new.

Sean, how much of our gear was brand new?

I believe only the BigBro, and the #6 were really new. My cams are all about 7 months old, nice and scratched up. Sean's have definitely been used.

We do, however, feel guilty we couldnt place the fifth and sixth #3 C4's. We had way too much gear left over. Does this compromise the integrity?

Oh, the blue-green hybrid in the bottom shot was a gift Sean gave me. That's brand new.


Partner taualum23


Jul 7, 2005, 9:56 AM
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Where are your opposite and opposed lockers? DEATH WISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't climb anymore until you get QUALIFIED instruction!!!!!!


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 9:58 AM
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I see now the error of our ways. Thanks T23 for showing me. :lol:


sarcat


Jul 7, 2005, 10:05 AM
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Then until you get proper instruction, send all your gear to me.

P.O. Box 636
Provo, UT 84603.

I'll take the TP holder as well.


Partner climbinginchico


Jul 7, 2005, 10:08 AM
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In reply to:
I'll take the TP holder as well.

That would be your standard-issue Black Diamond nut tool.

Where else can you have a TP holder/nut tool/bottle opener combo? Only with a Real Trad Climber!


powen


Jul 7, 2005, 10:31 AM
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I don't see any OE you bunch of frickin' poseurs.

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