Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes

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Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes

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whatsupdoc

Jul 7, 2005, 4:31 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
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Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes (North_America: United_States: California: Bishop_and_Eastern_Sierra: Evolution_Basin_North_) Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

A friend and I are planning on a trip to the Sierras in early September, around the 4th-14th or so. Besides the numerous alpine rock classics, we were considering doing an ice route. The north face couloirs on Mt. Mendel look appealing. I'm looking for beta. Do you know what type of conditions we might expect in early-mid September? Any guidebook that you recommend? How's the approach?

Finally, any other good ice/mixed routes that we should consider? We're looking for moderates only, nothing too hard.

Thanks.

trenchdigger

Jul 7, 2005, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2003
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I don't believe Mendel's N Face Couloirs would be considered "moderates" or "nothing too hard.

With a pack full of rock and ice gear, the shortest approach (via Lamarck Col - 12,900') to Darwin Canyon is no slouch.

How much ice experience do you have? How much Sierra climbing experience? Just wondering if you know what type of fun you're getting into...

whatsupdoc

Jul 7, 2005, 4:59 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I've led numerous pitches of ice up to grade 3+ and followed many grade 4 and 5 pitches. My partner leads grade 4 ice no problem. We've climbed 60-70 degree ice in the mountains on Mt. Baker. We both trad about 5.8, more like 5.7 in the mountains. I've done alpine rock up to 5.7. We've done Cathedral and Matthes in the Sierras. Hopefully by the time we get to Mendel we'll have Conness and Whitney under our belts.

I'm sorry if I was sounding ignorant, but the hardest we're looking for is roughly grade 3 ice and mid-5th class rock. Thanks.

whatsupdoc

Jul 7, 2005, 6:15 PM
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

bump

tim

Jul 7, 2005, 6:17 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2002
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Ice Nine (Mendel Left) is 5+, whereas Mendel Right is a 5. You might be better served by the U-Notch, V-Notch, the couloirs on Mt. Thompson or Mt. Gilbert, North Peak, or perhaps Mt. Darwin's North Face.

The nice thing about Darwin is that it would put you in that area and you could decide for yourself if you wanted to go after Mendel Right or Left. Those are among the steepest alpine ice lines in the Sierra.

whatsupdoc

Jul 7, 2005, 6:20 PM
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Thanks. I didn't know they went that hard on Mendel. I must have been confused. We'll look into something else.

tim

Jul 7, 2005, 6:22 PM
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

In reply to:

Hopefully by the time we get to Mendel we'll have Conness and Whitney under our belts.

When you say "Conness and Whitney", do you mean the SW Face of Conness and the Great Book on Whitney? Or the North Ridge on Conness and the East Face on Whitney?

The point I'm making is that these are big mountains in a big range, you'll be at least 8 hours from help, and you need to be realistic about what you can and can't get away with. Mendel is likely to be thin if it's in. Something glaciated like Darwin would be a good warm-up and (at least in the case of Darwin) would help you decide whether to push your limits a bit or not. Plus, Darwin has a really cool summit block. Nice photo op.

I went back there to ski Darwin in May but wussed out after seeing a lot of rollers and meeting a guided party who'd had 6 of their 7 members buried in a slide on Echo Col. Mendel is steep and thin (when it's in at all) but doable; just be sure you know what you're getting into.

tim

Jul 7, 2005, 6:24 PM
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

In reply to:

Thanks. I didn't know they went that hard on Mendel. I must have been confused. We'll look into something else.

Thin ice and a chockstone up high on the left couloir apparently pushes the grade up quite a bit. I haven't been able to tick it off either!

whatsupdoc

Jul 7, 2005, 6:25 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

By Conness and Whitney I meant the moderate routes, not the tougher ones. Probably West ridge of Conness and E buttress of Whitney. I'll just get the Falcon Guide, as I understand this outlines lots of these climbs.

tim

Jul 7, 2005, 7:03 PM
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Moynier's guide is good, so is Croft's book ("The Good, the Great, and the Awesome") and Secor's (for overall geography of the range). The nice thing about Croft's book is that it provides beta on where to eat/drink/sleep on the way to and from the routes. :-)

graniteboy

Jul 7, 2005, 7:09 PM
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
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Re: Beta on Mt. Mendel and other Sierra Ice Routes [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

The Mendel Right is not as big a deal as some above have made it seem.
The Ice is generally moderate, 50 to 65 degree stuff, with some rock pro, as the couloir is fairly narrow in the crux area. The actual hardest move is on the rock pitch exiting the col and heading to the summit...I'd call it a 5.5 mantle move. Bring a pair of slippers if need be.
If you pay your dues, it should be no problem. If you don't, welll.....you'll get whacked. But that's true of all climbs, enit?

Summary: Moderate is a fine word for Mendel Right. But get up ultra early if you plan on doing it car to car.

If mendel right seems like too much of a walk on the wild side, look into North Peak couloirs. They're easy, fun, and you can be down at nicely's eating chicken by 6 pm. I like the North peak/North of conness enchainment. Easily done in a good long day car to car.

Or the north gully of darwin. That's a little bit more to chew.
Anyway, good luck, put your miles in and pay your dues.