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crzdriver
Jul 8, 2005, 1:42 PM
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There are several bolted climbing areas here in Arkansas. I called the Forest Service the other day to see about doing some trailwork to repair a trail to one of these areas. I didn't have any problems there, but what worried me was his reference to all of the illegal anchors in the rock. So far, access hasn't been an issue, but he said that bolting on national forest property was illegal. I know that there are bolts on National Forest property all over the U.S. Is it legal or not, or is it up to the district? If it is legal, where can I find some documentation or other examples to show him, so that this doesn't become a problem in the future. Thanks.
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jammer
Jul 8, 2005, 2:41 PM
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Rumney is part of the White Mountain National Forest and is about 95% bolted.
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straightedge
Jul 8, 2005, 3:09 PM
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Bolting on National Forest land is not illegal, unless specifically noted and posted for a particular area. Unfortunately, there seem to be many ill-informed dolts in the Forest Service who believe that placing bolts is in violation of various federal regulations. Contact Jason Keith at the Access Fund (accessfund.org) for more info and documentation. The Access Fund also has a climbing management handbook that your local Forest Service pinhead could learn a lot from - perhaps the AF could send your local FS rec planner a copy.
What is illegal on Forest Service (and other public) land is building a trail without having gone through the permitting/NEPA process of impact assessment and mitigation. Do not build (move dirt and rocks) new trails without approval from the FS. I would not even attempt to maintain or repair an existing trail without explicit, written approval from the FS, BLM, etc. (Here's a good opportunity to build a better working relationship with your local FS through cooperative projects.) Trails that come into existence simply from repeatedly walking the same route, created by foot traffic and without moving dirt and rock, are not illegal.
Contact the Access Fund for specifics for your particular area and documentation of the legality of placing bolts. Know, however, that should you have to battle the FS concerning bolts and climbing, the Access Fund will do little more than make a phone call and/or write a letter to the local FS officials.
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slobmonster
Jul 8, 2005, 3:42 PM
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The quandry is that once you involve them (the gov'mnt), they are involved. Cheers to you for taking a step towards appropriate resource management; I wish there were more climbers out there like you (in this regard at least).
You can try contacting your regional coordinator for the Access Fund... but when you try you will find that there is nobody 'on call' for Arkansas. Got any time on your hands?
The ranger (or whoever you talked to) is (fortunately) mistaken regarding the legality of anchors. However, his (her?) attitude tells me that there might be a push at the management level to, ahem, regulate climbing anchors. Put your routes up now!
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slobmonster
Jul 8, 2005, 3:50 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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The quandry is that once you involve them (the gov'mnt), they are involved. Cheers to you for taking a step towards appropriate resource management; I wish there were more climbers out there like you (in this regard at least).
You can try contacting your regional coordinator for the Access Fund... but when you try you will find that there is nobody 'on call' for Arkansas. Got any time on your hands?
The ranger (or whoever you talked to) is (fortunately) mistaken regarding the legality of anchors. However, his (her?) attitude tells me that there might be a push at the management level to, ahem, regulate climbing anchors. Put your routes up now!
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crzdriver
Jul 8, 2005, 6:43 PM
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Thanks for all the info. I'll be sure to get ahold of that documentation. I'm afraid the issue is just going to get more sensitive because land around the area is up in the air for a trade between the forest service and the state parks. I have the contact for the new management, so I'm hoping to make a good impression right off the bat. Again, thanks for the help.
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