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Nagging question about Orange Oswald Wall Climbs..
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lugor


Jul 12, 2005, 12:13 PM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2005
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Nagging question about Orange Oswald Wall Climbs..  (North_America: United_States: West_Virginia: Roped_Climbing: New_River_Gorge_Region: Gauley_River___Tributaries__Summersville_: Summersville_Lake)
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Hello,
I've been out to Orange Oswald several times and I'm trying to figure out a discrepancy between this forum and the Horst (MD, VA, WVA) guidebook. This concerns the three climbs of Hippie Dreams, Souled Out and Orange Dihedral. Now Hippie Dreams is easy to find, its on a ledge, short and simple. To the right of Hippie dreams there are two climbs then its Chunko Goes Bowling. Now the Horst book only lists 1 climb (1 bolt line) between Hippie and Chunko. This site lists two, Souled Out and Orange Dihedral.

Now this is where it gets confusing. According to the Horst book, Souled Out is a climb that has two bolts to a ledge (...). Souled Out according to this site is the climb right next to Hippie Dreams. However it doesn't have 2 bolts to a ledge, its more of a scramble (or place gear) to a ledge and get your tiptoes and clip the bolt. And it isn't a 5.9, its more like a 5.7. The climb Souled Out as described by Horst is labeled as Orange Dihedral here.

So I wondering who is right? This might have be discussed and cleared up before, but I'm new here... Thanks for any insights! And not that the name would change anything, they are both very good climbs.


leaverbiner


Jul 12, 2005, 12:52 PM
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Re: Nagging question about Orange Oswald Wall Climbs.. [In reply to]
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Your confusion is understandable - the climb listed on this site and discussed a few times as "Orange Dihedral" does not exist in most of the guidbooks, or if it does is listed as "Unnamed". If you are trying to rectify any discrepencies between guidebooks and/or this site, you have to just eliminate this line! It is actually a really good line so it is worth doing (probably 5.9+) but it does make it confusing tryign to figure out what is what.


Just for clarity - Hippie Dreams should be the most recognizable - it starts at the top of the hill at the clearly worn belay area . . . follow the bolt line on and around the arete. The next climb to the right is SOuled Out which starts "on a vegetated ledge" (see the Steve Cater Guidebook). Most people access the ledge either from the start of Hippie Dreams or by scrambling up from the base of the hill that forms the majority of the start for the Orange Oswald Wall. When you are at the base of the wall there is a bolt line that leads into the Dihedral - this is the unnamed route missing from most guidebooks and has been referred to as the "Orange Dihedral". To the right of this line is Chunko Goes Bowling. In fact, the easiest way to deal with alll of this is to skip everything except the Dihedral!!! Head to the climb Orange Oswald and each of the lines to the right of that (strong armin' the little guy, baby's got a bolt gun, and She got the Bosch) they are all superior to Chunko, Voodoo, and Souled Out


thorne
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Jul 12, 2005, 1:02 PM
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Re: Nagging question about Orange Oswald Wall Climbs.. [In reply to]
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On a fair portion of the routes at Summersville (maybe even the majority), the primary names shown in most guides are different from the names given by the first ascent/bolter parties.

The original names are frequently noted as "(aka ___)".


stoneman


Oct 23, 2006, 4:09 PM
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Re: Nagging question about Orange Oswald Wall Climbs.. [In reply to]
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This is the scoop on the routes in question. I like the name Orange Dihedral, but it is actually called "The hell with that". Kenny Parker pened it when we were discussing whether to make it all sport or part trad/sport. It was funny so the name sticked. But neither me nor Dave Case really care about the name. Most of the pics are of the route to the right of the dihedral and that route is Chuncko goes bowling. An attempted insult to dave's non climbing related and boring activities. They are enjoyable routes but obviously not the prime.
SOS


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