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jonroelofs
Jul 13, 2005, 3:05 AM
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Has anyone tried/figured out how to do this:
http://www.immortal.net.au/climbing/resources/training/self_belay.html
"Assuming your right-handed: Thread the rope for a left-handed person on a figure-8, but push the rope from below through the big eye.
Do not clip into the screwgate yet. turn the figure-8 90 degrees clockwise and clip the screwgate into the big eye. You now have a self-arresting abseil device. Clip a karabiner into the small eye for a lever. Pull on the biner and you can abseil; let go with both hands and it will lock up. I've used this for belaying hangs-dogs, rigging up plastic climbs, cleaning new rock routes, preplacing pro etc. I think it is quite safe. It will be possible to adapt it for self-belaying, and most probably will feed a lot easier than the clove hitch."
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tattooed_climber
Jul 13, 2005, 3:22 AM
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hummmmmmmmm....thats cool....though i don't really trust it. (but i am playing with it with 8mm cord...i can see it fucking up and failing easily)...if you have the small hole of the fig8 (used as a release in this setup) if it was caught downward( it stayes there some times), it will not lock, and then shit hits the fan,,,,,i gave it a snap and it engauges though...(if turned 'dead' downward, pull slowly the anchor end of rope and it will feed, give it a snap and it will lock....kinda like a SP but me not trusting eh...)..there's the rope 'clamping' itself in this setup but since THATS the principal behind it, it will also have the ability to slip like all hitchs...but if you were to peel off a slab or something>>> :!: ....seems like theres a likelyhood for it to get snagged on something on your harness....but what the fuck...if i remember, next time i go climbing i'll hull the old fig-8 out and backup with a prussik and try it out on a rap
EDIT: prob like all fig-8 techniques, it'll twist the rope to hell...
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sharpshootr987
Jul 13, 2005, 4:41 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2004
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Sounds a little risky to me
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overlord
Jul 13, 2005, 12:59 PM
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http://www.immortal.net.au/...ning/self_belay.html
fixed the link.
the instructions are a little vague. i cant really envision what he has in mind. how do you thread the fig8 for a lefthanded person??? i personally dont really care how its threaded.
some pics would be nice.
and it DOES sound a bit sketchy.
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rickrock77
Jul 13, 2005, 1:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2005
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I would stick to using them the way they are meant to be used as per the general directions that come with those things..
Better safe than thinking you are just "more or less" safe..
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j_ung
Jul 13, 2005, 1:16 PM
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In reply to: Has anyone tried/figured out how to do this: http://www.immortal.net.au/climbing/resources/training/self_belay.html "Assuming your right-handed: Thread the rope for a left-handed person on a figure-8, but push the rope from below through the big eye. Do not clip into the screwgate yet. turn the figure-8 90 degrees clockwise and clip the screwgate into the big eye. You now have a self-arresting abseil device. Clip a karabiner into the small eye for a lever. Pull on the biner and you can abseil; let go with both hands and it will lock up. I've used this for belaying hangs-dogs, rigging up plastic climbs, cleaning new rock routes, preplacing pro etc. I think it is quite safe. It will be possible to adapt it for self-belaying, and most probably will feed a lot easier than the clove hitch."
That's the part I'm not getting.
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goingup
Jul 13, 2005, 1:31 PM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2003
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In reply to: 3. The poor man's Grigri. Also called the Italian Brake or Bonatti Brake. There is a potential hazard is this. Something which I only discovered whilst putting up a bottom-rope one day. You MUST always clip the small eye back to you harnass using a quickdraw. Otherwise the rope might climb off the system and you will be off belay!. Just ensure you clip the quickdraw into a safe place on you harness and not into a gear loop.
It would be less bulky with a carabiner+sling girth hitched to the belay loop instead of the draw.
I'm testing it as we speak with a 8.6. It blocks positively and feeds great.
I think it's a nice addition to the "bag of tricks" but I'm keeping my TRE.
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gunkiemike
Jul 14, 2005, 2:39 AM
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And like the Grigri (used as a rappel device) you have to let go (or release pressure) for it to lock. Reported experience has been that paniced newbies don't do this - they pull tighter. And thus just go faster.
But I like the concept. Too bad I sawed my 8 in half to use as leaver rap rings.
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overlord
Jul 14, 2005, 1:41 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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cool. looks like an autolocking munter hitch.
and probably really screws up your rope if used regulary.
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landgolier
Jul 14, 2005, 2:24 PM
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Looks like it works just like an autoblocker (reverso, 52, gigi). I'd read the documentation on why belaying a leader in blocking mode is bad, though, before I did that. Hell, I bet you could belay off an anchor like that, if you got whacked in the head and forgot the munter hitch or something. My concern is whether the big eye of an 8 is good for axial loading like that. I'm assuming it would be, but who knows.
I hope some day I come upon a sawed 8 bail ring, I would laugh my ass off.
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j_ung
Jul 14, 2005, 2:54 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Thanks, goingup, that helps a bunch. A shorter way to explain this might be to say: Rig the 8 like normal, but give the bight a half twist (such that the brake is blocked by the guide) before throwing it over the small eye. Clip in to the big eye.
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landongw
Jul 16, 2005, 12:02 AM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
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there is a possibility of melting the sheath in a leader fall.
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landgolier
Jul 16, 2005, 2:27 AM
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I don't think so. Doesn't seem to be a problem with the munter hitch, and this is basically the same thing in terms of rope-on-rope friction.
In reply to: there is a possibility of melting the sheath in a leader fall. |
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landongw
Jul 18, 2005, 4:04 AM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
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mmm, good point, hadn't thought of that...
i talked to a few people about it and tried it, that was the only thing anybody could come up with that might go wrong.
this is sweet, i now have a reason to carry an 8 instead of my pyramid for a backup.
thanks for posting this stuff
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landongw
Jul 18, 2005, 5:24 AM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
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could it be better to put a locking biner between the two holes in the eight to keep the rope from slipping off?
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