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fng
Jul 13, 2005, 1:43 PM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 75
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Last weekend I was at Courtright and climbing a couple of the domes. One of the routes we climbed was not in the guide book. The route is on the south side of Spring Dome closest to the camp ground. It starts with an overhanging roof off the ground with bomber hands and no feet. You pull up and do an upper body dino to another hold with a heel hook with your right foot and a side pull with your right hand. You pull up from there to mantle a small 8" bench at the same time grabbing a crimpy under cling to keep you from peeling off. The rest of the route is easy maybe 5.5 with these perfect holes, like they were drilled, that perfectly fit tricams and cams of various sizes. There are two bolts on the route and the rest is protected by pro. Has anyone done this route, and what would you rate the climb to the second bolt? Fun climb!
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boltdude
Jul 16, 2005, 11:55 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Sep 29, 2002
Posts: 685
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I think that route is a John Barbella route from the mid '90s, rated 5.10. Done ground-up (first bolt placed from a stacked pile of rocks!), pockets are natural. Or maybe that's a different route...
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fng
Aug 30, 2005, 3:52 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 75
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It could be the same route. To the left of it 10-15 yards is a traversing roof to start and then a lyback(spelling?) for 10' or so to easier climbing. I'm curious what that route is as well if you know.
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elwes
Jul 24, 2006, 2:02 PM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2006
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the route is a one move wonder to get to the under cling. if it's by the camp ground, then I know it. t's got one hard move and then that's it.
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