Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


cass


Jul 17, 2002, 8:54 AM
Post #1 of 35 (7145 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 5, 2001
Posts: 1956

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Where else is there besides the US is there big wall/aid climbing. I remember seeing a documentary with Jon Krakauer (his return to climbing after Everest) I believe in Antarctica. I also read about such climbing in Sweden?


punk


Jul 17, 2002, 9:32 AM
Post #2 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Try Baffin Island ("too cold" for Some Canadians.... ) and the great Trango tower for starter then Patagonia and Alaska and so on and so on
hope it helped


[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-07-17 10:10 ]


beyond_gravity


Jul 17, 2002, 10:02 AM
Post #3 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2002
Posts: 5076

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

too cold for Some Canadians?? thats where we go in summer to escape the warm temperatures!


punk


Jul 17, 2002, 10:09 AM
Post #4 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The one who said that… knows….


cass


Jul 17, 2002, 10:19 AM
Post #5 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 5, 2001
Posts: 1956

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok I meant to say not Canada as well. Out side of North America. I don't imagine I'll be ever doing it, just curious.


radistrad


Jul 17, 2002, 10:21 AM
Post #6 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What about the area that Lotus Flower tower is in, is that Baffin?
How about Patigonia, some BIG wall there!


atg200


Jul 17, 2002, 10:25 AM
Post #7 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here is everything I can think of right now:

Canada - Baffin Island, Howser Towers, Cirque of the Unclimbables(granite)

Mexico - El Gran Trono Blanco(granite)

Venezuela - numerous Tepuis(jungle climbing)

Ecuador - El Altar, crater side(volcanic choss, huge)

Peru - Chacraraju, La Esfinge in Cordillera Blanca(granite, chacraraju has significant ice climbing involved on summit ridge)

Argentina/Chile - Just about everything in Patagonia but especially known for the Cerro Torre, Fitzroy, and Towers of Paine groups.

Madagascar - forget the name, but its there

Europe - Troll Wall in Norway, some walls in Chamonix and the Dolomites qualify. Spain apparently has some very large walls, I believe in the north.

Asia - lots, probably many undiscovered. Karakoram range in particular - Trango Tower group has other huge walls like Shipton Spire, Cats Ears, etc. Kirghizistan has lots(Tommy Caldwell epic). I've heard rumors about deep narrow canyons bigger than the black canyon of the gunnison in Nepal and China, though I don't know of any development there.

Antarctica - Queen Maude land is where Krakauer got dragged by a wall by Lowe and Anker. See Climbing Super Seven Summits issue.


Who can add to my list?

[ This Message was edited by: atg200 on 2002-07-17 10:27 ]


dsafanda


Jul 17, 2002, 10:26 AM
Post #8 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 5, 2002
Posts: 1025

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

South Africa has some but I don't know the details re. wall or route names.


wigglestick


Jul 17, 2002, 10:31 AM
Post #9 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If by big wall you mean grade V and up climbs there are a number of locations across the globe that have big walls. The Troll Wall in Norway, The Dolomites, there are a few big walls in Mexico. Patagonia, and greatgarbonzo has clued us into some big walls in Venezuela. Orangeoverhang and Philbox can probably give you beta on some big walls in Australia and New Zealand.


atg200


Jul 17, 2002, 10:34 AM
Post #10 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here is my list for the United States. Can anybody add to it?

California - Yosemite, Kings Canyon/Sequoia? Sierras have several - Keeler Needle etc.

Utah - Zion. Fisher Towers and Mystery Towers.

Colorado - Longs Peak - the Diamond. Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

Wyoming - Mt Hooker, several other large walls in the Wind Rivers. East Face of Cloud Peak in the Bighorns.

Montana - Granite Peak in the Beartooth Range.

Washington - Liberty Bell Group.

Nevada - Rainbow Wall.

North Carolina - Whitesides, Looking Glass.

New Hampshire - Cannon Cliff.

Alaska - numerous. Ruth Gorge, Kichatna Spires.


Some large walls I have seen but never heard of climbing on(possibly horrible choss): Wheeler Peak in Nevada(looks like the Diamond on Longs but chossy and very steep), Great Wall of China in Montana(limestone).


atg200


Jul 17, 2002, 10:37 AM
Post #11 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 4317

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lotus Flower Tower and Mt Proboscis are in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, which I believe are in the Yukon or possibly the Northwest territories, but definitely not on Baffin Island.

Greenland also has some monster walls, property of Denmark right?


punk


Jul 17, 2002, 10:53 AM
Post #12 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here u go Cirque of the Unclimbables
and greenland too
And this just looking too sweet Névado Chacraraju




[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-07-17 11:04 ]


hollyclimber


Jul 18, 2002, 8:31 AM
Post #13 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 26, 2002
Posts: 124

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

International--
GROSS OMISSION HAS OCCURRED ABOVE...

Squamish, Home of the Stuwamish Chief is an awesome towering wall, with some amazing aid climbs. Check out the walls on Matt Buckle's page.

http://www.matthewbuckle.net/climb/bcclimbing/squamishaid.html

Squamish has everything to offer--a resort town close enough to visit for dinner, a smaller town with a climbing shop and friendly locals right at the base of the wall, aid climbs of every grade and insanity level, beautiful views and interesting features. If there is any drawback to Squish (as we affectionately call it) it would be the propensity to rain in any month of the year. Or, maybe also the GOD DAMNED falcons that nest on the wall each year, this year near very popular routes. But, July and August are excellent times to climb there, as it is not too hot like it is most other places.

For me, the other funny thing is that I spend enough time in Squish free climbing and aid climbing that everyone always asks me if I have a Canadian accent...and I say Eh way too much. Oh well, I like those Canuckians.

One more thing--everything in Canada is on sale all the time! Food and even gear is cheap.


US Aid climbing....
No one has yet mentioned our beautiful Index. (Approx 2 hours from Seattle, Wa). The Index Upper Town Wall is high quality, includes aid climbs of every difficulty and is similar in length to the shorter aid climbs of Zion. Index isn't a destination because there is practically no town, no services and the camping is super-ghetto, but it should be one and sometimes gets written up. However, as locals, we are fine with keeping it mostly to ourselves to keep down traffic, although we love to show others how great it really is.

Holly

[ This Message was edited by: hollyclimber on 2002-07-18 08:38 ]


cass


Jan 5, 2003, 7:19 AM
Post #14 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 5, 2001
Posts: 1956

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bump


epic_ed


Jan 5, 2003, 1:15 PM
Post #15 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4723

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ATG -- Baboquivari in AZ. Only about 1,200 feet, but it's home of the only grade V's in Az.

Ed


Partner philbox
Moderator

Jan 5, 2003, 1:43 PM
Post #16 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2002
Posts: 13104

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

   There`s bigwalls in Tasmania, Mt. Warning in northern New South Wales. I have also been scoping out an unclimbed bigwall called the Hindenberg Range in the western province of Papua New Guinea.
Then there`s Balls Pyramid near Lord Howe Island off the coast of New South Wales.

...Phil...


Partner tim


Jan 5, 2003, 1:54 PM
Post #17 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Silvia Vidal has put up some MONSTROUS big walls in Monterrey (I think), in one of the canyons. The formation that comes most quickly to mind is 'El Gigante'.

That chick is soooooo hardcore. 5'0" I think, and routinely leads Gerberding A5 pitches. SIIIIIICK

She says the hardest route she's ever done was some heinous route on Amin Brakk in Pakistan (?) with 5 or so pitches of new-wave A4+ and A5. IIRC that hardwoman soloed the Reticent so she ought to have a good idea. Also her routes seem to resist downgrading and she often partners with elite European alpinists who would be hard to fool!



twrock


Jan 6, 2003, 5:17 AM
Post #18 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 223

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There is a great big wall in China. Actually it isn't that tall, but it makes the El Cap girdle traverse look like a single pitch sport climb.

(I'm sorry, I really am, but I just couldn't help it.)


buick1d


Jan 6, 2003, 12:27 PM
Post #19 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 31, 2002
Posts: 4

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

don`t forget the verdon if you want steep routes.some of the newer routes while only? 300m high overhang 100m+ makes that yosemite granite look like a gentle stroll
also the grand jorrasses have a lot of hard routes
let me know if you want to play


wallrat


Jan 6, 2003, 3:03 PM
Post #20 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 155

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

   So far nobody has mentioned the Troll wall in Norway, or the walls in Morocco. Big walls in Africa? No kidding. Also, there's Patagonia...


brutusofwyde


Jan 6, 2003, 9:24 PM
Post #21 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

> Here is my list for the United States. Can
> anybody add to it?

Only in the few areas where I have first or
second hand knowledge.

> California - Yosemite, Kings Canyon /
> Sequoia? Sierras have several - Keeler
> Needle etc.

California:

Calaveras Dome -- Banzai, Warlord, and some newer, real hard gripfests.

Bubb's Creek Wall Area. Few have seen a second ascent.

Whitney Crest including Australopithecus, Direct East Face, Hairline, and numerous others.

Castle Rock Spire, Moro Rock, Watchtower & Sequoia Area

Tehipite Dome, North Dome, Grand Sentinal and many other climbs in the King's Canyon area.

Ruby Wall

Tuttle Creek Area -- Land of Little Rain, Windhorse, Direct South Face, etc.

Sonora Pass Area (Donnel Reservoir)

> Nevada - Rainbow Wall.

Numerous other somewhat-to-substantially-aid routes in Red Rocks ranging from primarily free Resolution Arete and Eagle Dance to some remote A3/A4 horrorshows. Mt Charleston area has some big limestone cliffs as well. Loose.

> Alaska - numerous. Ruth Gorge, Kichatna
> Spires.

Yup. Don't forget Denali, Moose's Tooth, etc.

Baboquivari Peak in Arizona

> Some large walls I have seen but never
> heard of climbing on(possibly horrible
> choss): Wheeler Peak in Nevada(looks like
> the Diamond on Longs but chossy and very
> steep),

There is some climbing in the Wheeler Peak Area: travelnevada.com mentions Solomon’s Arrow, the prominent needle rising on the northwest side of the Wheeler Peak Cirque, and Shenandoah Wall, a 5.8 with uniformly solid rock. Nameless Tower is between Jeff Davis Peak and Wheeler Peak and offers three routes.

No big wall routes that I know of, at this time. Yes, it's chossy.

Lots of stuff in Canada too, ranging from alpine aid in the Bugs to serious stuff on Canadian limestone (Alberta North Face, North Twin North Face, etc.)

Brutus


drunkenmonkey


Jan 8, 2003, 12:47 PM
Post #22 of 35 (7143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 1, 2002
Posts: 93

Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hey don't forget Kyrgyzstan, there are some superb 2000m granite walls there which have huge new route potential. if anyone is interested in any information i have some good contacts i can put you in touch with


wallwombat


Aug 22, 2007, 12:17 AM
Post #23 of 35 (4816 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 727

Re: [drunkenmonkey] Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There are some big walls in New Zealand. Big steep granite faces of Mts Sabre, Adelaide and Marion in the Darrans. The late Bill Denz put up some grade V / VI routes up on them in the 70's.

Haven't heard of much since but that doesn't mean there hasn't been heaps done.

The area has notoriously bad weather and long, arduous access routes.

Chouinard visited the area and put up a route in the 70's as well.

I'd love to visit the area.


skinner


Aug 23, 2007, 12:16 PM
Post #24 of 35 (4780 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [hollyclimber] Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hollyclimber wrote:

International--
GROSS OMISSION HAS OCCURRED ABOVE...

Squamish, Home of the Stuwamish Chief is an awesome towering wall, with some amazing aid climbs. Check out the walls on Matt Buckle's page.

Matts Climbing Page

As it appears to be resurrection week, I may as well correct a 5-year old error.. It is in fact Stawamus Chief, and not "Stuwamish Chief".


(This post was edited by skinner on Aug 23, 2007, 12:21 PM)


rockprodigy


Aug 23, 2007, 12:51 PM
Post #25 of 35 (4762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540

Re: [wallwombat] Big Wall/Aid climbing around the World [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
There are some big walls in New Zealand. Big steep granite faces of Mts Sabre, Adelaide and Marion in the Darrans. The late Bill Denz put up some grade V / VI routes up on them in the 70's.

Do you have any photos?

I love photos of big rocks

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$4.05 (10% off)
$71.96 (10% off)
$26.96 (10% off)
$52.16 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook