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Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite
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Partner phaedrus


Jul 15, 2005, 11:53 AM
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Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite
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Lynn Hill has made a one-day free ascent of the West Face route of Leaning Tower in Yosemite National Park; her partner, Katie Brown, freed the climb's crux pitches over a couple of days. Brown recruited Hill as a partner after working on the lower part of the route with Adam Stack. The two worked on the climb for two days,rested for two days, and then went for the ascent. Hill topped out after dark; they returned later so Brown could free the final 5.12 pitch.

http://www.terragalleria.com/...untain/bigw3432.jpeg

http://www.mountain.ru/...ynnHill/lynn3_hr.jpg
Lynn Hill

http://www.solomax.com/photos/katie_brown.jpg
Katie Brown

The West Face, normally rated A2 (V 5.7 C2F), goes at 5.13b A0, the free variation starts atop the 200-foot bolt ladder at the base of the wall and has five pitches of 5.12 or 5.13. A reach problem on the free version of the fifth pitch above Guano Ledge forced the two to free the original aid line via a hard boulder problem.


http://www.climbing.com


grayhghost


Jul 15, 2005, 12:25 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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" Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower"
"the free variation starts atop the 200-foot bolt ladder"

clarify please.


crotch


Jul 15, 2005, 12:31 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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In reply to:
5.13b A0

All of my free ascents have some aid in them too. I freed the S.F. of Washington's Column. It went at 5.8 C1. :wink:

Nice job on a hard send, but let's be honest, Leaning Tower has yet to be freed.


theishofoz


Jul 15, 2005, 12:35 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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my bud corb was tellin me about it, he was following right behind them the whole way. sounds pretty sick


as for the bolt ladder, consider it the last bit of the approach :D


pmyche


Jul 15, 2005, 12:47 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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Bogus report. They climbed the Westie Face Route. Use your edit button.

After Lynn's herculean display on the Nose, I expected better than stringing fixed lines up the Tower for days on end. Leo did the FA on-sight in a push, I believe.


grayhghost


Jul 15, 2005, 1:05 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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you believe wrong.



"Below is an article I wrote for On the Edge and short piece with the facts. Perhaps there might be something of use to you in there.

Yes it is true that my Tower exploits began with an aborted solo attempt of Wet Denim. I was gonna do it an a push but after leading the pitch off Ahwahnee I decided that aid climbing was "Like climbing without all the good bits" so I turned my attention to the beautiful ramp pitch on the West face. Jason Pickles and Javier Sepulveda were aiding the West Face so I teamed up with them and just failed to onsight the ramp that same afternoon. Free climbing is my thing.

The roof is on of the wildest clip-up's I have ever done.

The route is of Astroman quality but a couple of numbers harder.


THE WESTIE FACE

The first free ascent of the West face of the Leaning tower by Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles

On Wednesday 16th May 2001 Jason Pickles and I made the first free ascent of the West Face of the Leaning tower. First climbed by Warren Harding in 1953 with a heavy use of bolts, Royal Robbins called the Tower "the steepest wall in North America".
Comparable in angle to Kilnsey North Buttress but a thousand feet high Ö you get the picture!

Hardingís rusty bolts were replaced by the American safe climbing association in 1997, good work boys.

The initial insanely steep bolt ladder remains an aid pitch and will never go free (so prove me wrong). The free climbing begins where the bolt ladder ends at a small ledge in a shallow, steep groove. The crux pitch a 160 foot, 5.13b (E7 6c) leads one on to the Ahwahnee ledge. A five star perch named after the exclusive Hotel in the Valley.

An unusual hanging ramp pitch then a full sixty metre stamina fest, both around 5.12c bring you to the big roof. Itís size is deceptive but whenyou pull into the back of it itís scale is clear. About twenty feet of horizontal laybacking then another twenty feet of bridging up a forty five degree overhanging groove. Every hold a jug, the itís a wild pitch. Extremly exposed E6 6c(5.13a).

A final typically steep corner completes the outstanding, sustained route. The increadible view of El Cap from obtained the summit makes the final mantle perhaps the most spectacular topout in the world.

Achievable in a day and of a semi-sport natrue this route is set to become a classic of its grade.

Several days later we made the fastest aid ascent of the same route whilst retrieving a jammed rope. 1 hour 59 minutes sheds a considerable 1.20 off the previous speed record. The same afternoon Jason caught his bus out of the Valley.
The next afternoon Jason Singer and I climbed the Nose of El Capitan. Leaving the cafť at 12 noon, without head torches we began climbing at 12.40. On the third pitch I narrowly avoided a monster fall by catching a tiny ledge 10 feet into the 120 foot screamer! Not the best way to start a speed ascent. In our fifth hour we passed a party who was on their fifth day. Topping out at 7.42 we made it down just before dark. "

-Leo Holding


jcinco


Jul 15, 2005, 2:02 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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Since when does repeating a free climb in worse style than the FFA become "World Climbing News"?


jpdreamer


Jul 15, 2005, 2:16 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Since when does repeating a free climb in worse style than the FFA become "World Climbing News"?

It seems like Hill did the first 1 day free ascent. Furthermore, she freed part of the original aid line which wasn't part of the free variation. While perhaps not "World Climbing News", I certainly wouldn't call it in worse style.


jcinco


Jul 15, 2005, 3:03 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Since when does repeating a free climb in worse style than the FFA become "World Climbing News"?

It seems like Hill did the first 1 day free ascent. Furthermore, she freed part of the original aid line which wasn't part of the free variation.

Fair enough about the variation. Maybe I missed something, but from what I read it was not the first one-day ascent.

In reply to:
While perhaps not "World Climbing News", I certainly wouldn't call it in worse style.

Some would beg to differ, esp. regarding the stringing of fixed ropes for quite some time.

Props to Lynn and Katie for a good send, but adding a slight variation doesn't seem newsworthy. Seems that the cult of celebrity is what has people oohing and aahing on this one.


caughtinside


Jul 15, 2005, 3:04 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Seems that the cult of celebrity is what has people oohing and aahing on this one.

Well, the mags gotta print something. And they like brand names.


gunked


Jul 15, 2005, 3:11 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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I was a bit blown away by the title thinking that WFLT had been completely freed. That would have been pretty amazing news considering I remember Leo Houlding mentioning something about the first bit may never go free.

I'm pretty psyched that Lynn and Katie repeated the existing route. No small feat by any means. They're amazing climbers!

Congrats to the both of them!

-Jason


rufusandcompany


Jul 15, 2005, 3:59 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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Lynn is in her mid-forties and still free climbing 5.13 big walls. That is news worthy. My question to all you cyber-climbing critics is: what have you done lately? Lighten up. Go out there and show us what you can do.


Partner drector


Jul 15, 2005, 4:27 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Lynn is in her mid-forties and still free climbing 5.13 big walls. That is news worthy. My question to all you cyber-climbing critics is: what have you done lately? Lighten up. Go out there and show us what you can do.

I don't think anyone intends to insult Lynn or her abilities. It is the new reporting that is questionable since it says it was done free yet reports an aid rating. It is not accurate no matter how hard those girls can climb. They should be repected. The reporter should not.

I think that we all have the right to question the press when thay report things in a misleading way even if we don't do the activity reported. I've never given birth but I question those stories about ladies giving birth to aliens. Or wwere those cows giving births to aliens. I can't remember.

Is this the first time anyone has been reported to have climbed a route free for the first time even though thee is aid on that route? I'm a noob to this sort of thing. And can anyone confirm that they did all of the route free with the exception of the bolt ladder?

Dave


vivalargo


Jul 15, 2005, 6:41 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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For a minute there I was thinking those girls had freed that first stretch of bolts and I knew the only way that was possible was through jack hammer chissling or glue ons. Glad the free ascent was from the top of those bolts. If those pitches had been on the ground, behind Camp 4, they would have gone long ago.

But thatīs a great effort for the two girls.

JL


rufusandcompany


Jul 15, 2005, 9:38 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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Drector, if you read all of the comments, you will recognize the ones at which I directed mine. I wasn't speaking to erroneous reporting.


watersprite


Jul 17, 2005, 10:08 AM
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how old is she!!!!???? come on, guys give it up for Lynn Hill~~ (omfg)


moabbeth


Jul 17, 2005, 6:00 PM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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Yeah. Leo did it at what, 19? She did it at about 44. Yeah they had ropes up for awhile. Yeah it's been "freed" before. Lynnie is out there kicking ass and climbing 5.13 walls. I will never be able to do what she did in my lifetime. And she just had a kid a year or so ago. That alone on a woman takes a certain physical toll. But not our Lynn.

Katie's half her age and it took her longer to work the cruxes. No disrespect to Katie since she did a proud route, but Lynn.....she's the goddess of all female climbing. Seems like there's nothing that woman CAN'T do. :P


dsafanda


Jul 19, 2005, 9:52 AM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Seems like there's nothing that woman CAN'T do. :P


Well apparently, "she CAN'T" free the West Face. :wink:

I don't think anyone is disparaging the talents of Lynn Hill. I think people are just getting tired of this media perpetuated notion that somehow the first two hundred feet of this route don't count when one makes claims of fee climbing it.


kappydane


Jul 31, 2005, 10:37 AM
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For some unbelievable pictures of the ascent look at Lynn's climbing camp web page at: http://www.lynnhillclimbs.com/photo.htm#tower


rockorchidrhapsody


Jul 31, 2005, 11:02 PM
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Congrats to Lynn Hill AND Katie Brown...amazing any way you look at it. Props to the ladies who do what they love to do!!


climbingnurse


Aug 1, 2005, 6:46 AM
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Re: Lynn Hill and Katie Brown Free Leaning Tower in Yosemite [In reply to]
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My favorite pic from the series on the Climbing Camp Website:

http://www.lynnhillclimbs.com/...ce_katie_and_jim.htm

Me thinks Jim is getting his morning dose of Jaeger...


drylander


Aug 1, 2005, 7:07 PM
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He is flexing too!

Staged... yes,
Funniest shit I have ever seen... yes


drylander


Aug 1, 2005, 7:12 PM
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She also has written a huge story on it at her the blog for Lynn Hill

LynnHillBlogs.com

It is long, I read it this morning during work. It is worth a read. Has the pictures from her site incorporated so you can see the moves she is talking about.

I want to go to Yosemite so bad right now....


climbingnurse


Aug 2, 2005, 11:05 AM
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Teehee! I'm in Vegas right now about to catch a flight to Sacramento. I should be in the Valley in about 5 hours!!!

Guess what I'm doing tomorrow? Starting up WFLT!!!! :twisted: :D :shock: :D :D :D

Of course, my sorry ass won't be freeing it. And I definitely won't be getting it done in a day.


flipnfall


Aug 2, 2005, 11:53 AM
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Reading this just made me feel like the biggest whimp.

Too cool, though.

GT

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