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doogle
Jul 16, 2005, 5:34 AM
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There must be someone here who has done it. I've tried quite a few times, but I keep getting stuck at the same place. It's pretty much at the bit where it narrows to almost nothing (the second smaller dog leg) and starts widening again. I've tried laying back and getting my feet on that small edge to the right of the crack, but with no success.
Any hints?
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 2:35 AM
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yes, I have done it, many times. Don't feel bad, it took me a couple of tries to stick it too, and I consider myself a 'crack climber'.
I know a few people that flail though it using a combination of laying-back and gastoning, and it IS possible to do it this way, but you will find that it is a waste of energy and you will not feel solid (...never mind solid enough to clip on lead).
Here is some ASCII art to help visualise:
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I am assuming you can get to the first finger jam on the upper section (at the level of the small dot in the 'picture'). At this point, I have my left foot jammed in the diagonal crack, my right hand jammed upward in the constricting crack, my right foot on an edge on the face to the right, and the fingers of my left hand jammed at the level of the dot.
Okay, now for the crux......
1) jam the fingers of your right hand in the crack above you left hand, the higher the better. You can shift your left foot up higher in the crack to help with height.
2) now you want to get you left foot out of the crack. so, set your hands/fingers as best you can (tips: chalk up, and the more it hurts the better the jam!), (depending your height) reset your right foot higher on the face, and put your left foot out on the face to the left. there is a natural foot-hold right next to a (red??) hold, just below the small overlap.
3) okay, now you are going to be hanging from 2 very marginal finger jams, while standing on 2 small foot-holds relatively far apart from each other. did I mention this is ther crux?? :P . anyway, this is the point where you either make it or you don't. at upper-hand height (the bold lines on the 'picture') on both sides of the crack are very shallow corners, one on the left, one on the right. these are where your feet need to go!
4) reset your hands, as high as possible. at this point, you should be able to get to some jams that will actually hold your weight. now just pull up your feet and bridge between the 2 corners (I think right foot first is a bit easier, at least for me...).
5) you are now through the crux! enjoy the remaining excellent jams and bridging to the very top :D
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socialclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 3:40 AM
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I think he was talking about the other crack :roll:
Having read that, it might have been easier to get him down there on Thursday...
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 4:02 AM
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In reply to: I think he was talking about the other crack :roll: Having read that, it might have been easier to get him down there on Thursday...
yes, I agree! If you thought that was hard to understand while reading it, try writing it!
hehe, another one for the dark side I see :twisted:
btw, how do you like my ASCII crack?
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 4:06 AM
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In reply to: I think he was talking about the other crack :roll: Having read that, it might have been easier to get him down there on Thursday...
yes, I agree! If you that is hard to understand while reading, try writing it!
hehe, another one for the dark side I see :twisted:
btw, how'd you like my ASCII crack?
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 4:20 AM
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Okay, Rowan, Gary seems to think you are talking about Crackula (23, dead center of the featured wall), and I think you are talking about the 20 to the left (ala the ASCII art). Hopefully I am right!?
As you may have picked up from Gary's post, we are at The Roxx almost every Thursday evening, so if you are ever interested in climbing with us, we'll be there.
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socialclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 4:26 AM
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Actually you did such a good job drawing your little stick picture, I thought
I'd take the piss. :P I'm pretty sure hes talking about the 20 as well.
Rowan, by all means come down on Thursday. It's great watching Gabe flog himself in those cracks. I'd call it torture but he seems to enjoy it. The only thing he seems to enjoy more is duping other unsuspecting victims into trying them :lol:
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 4:38 AM
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In reply to: The only thing he seems to enjoy more is duping other unsuspecting victims into trying them :lol: |
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socialclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 4:59 AM
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In reply to: ....this is a man speaking from personal experience :!:
Too many times :evil: :evil:
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 5:03 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: ....this is a man speaking from personal experience :!: Too many times :evil: :evil:
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Now you sucker yourself into sticky situations :!: :lol: :shock: :wink:
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socialclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 5:39 AM
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In reply to: Now you sucker yourself into sticky situations :!: :lol: :shock: :wink:
with far better results too :lol:
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doogle
Jul 18, 2005, 6:00 AM
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It was the 20 on the left I was talking about. Thanks for the detailed response!
I think I may come down thursday and get some first-hand lessons from the crack masters. You make it sound actually possible!
(And Gabe, what are the chances you know my mother?! :shock:)
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 6:04 AM
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In reply to: (And Gabe, what are the chances you know my mother?! :shock:)
definitely come on Thursday!
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socialclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 6:18 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: (And Gabe, what are the chances you know my mother?! :shock:) ...very good :!: :lol: :wink: definitely come on Thursday!
:arrow: DAD :!:
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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doogle
Jul 18, 2005, 7:49 AM
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I won't be there 'til about 5:30.
Is it usually just the two of you there? I wouldn't like to be the "third wheel" of a belay pair :wink:
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socialclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 8:02 AM
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If you get there at 5:30, you'll be waiting for us. Gabe gets there 6:30-7pm, I get there later than that. Theres usually others too, doesn't matter if we end up with odd numbers.
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sbaclimber
Jul 18, 2005, 8:15 AM
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don't worry about people #s or time (though none of us seem to make it before 6:30). I will add your email address to my climbers mailing list.
Pretty standard group for us is 4-6 people, we just kinda mix and match, depending on who is there and who is doing what. Gary and I tend to be the organisers, but there are a few other 'regulars' and a whole slew of 'occasionals'.
btw, we aren't all crack climbers. I am the one who enjoys it, Gary enjoys it but whines alot, and most of the others flat out refuse to go near a crack :? 8^)
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doogle
Jul 18, 2005, 8:17 AM
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Oh ok, I'll come a bit later then. I won't have to come straight from uni then (which is much more convenient for me).
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doogle
Jul 19, 2005, 10:41 AM
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Turns out I have an extra rehersal for the musical I'm playing in, so I probably won't be able to make it after all.
If you can add me to that mailing list Gabe, that'd be great.
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