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realdeal39
Jul 20, 2005, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
Posts: 140
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I was wondering if taking a climber who I would describe as an intermediate novice onto the 5.7 classic White Whale on the Left Book at Lumpy Ridge would be advisable. I would be leading the entire climb. I have no doubt as to her ability to do the route but I was just curious about things like exposure, belay stances, angle of climbing, etc. It would be her first multi-pitch climb. I was told the mountainering school takes first time climbers up it so I figure my g/f could handle it to. My big question in belay stations. Are they big ledges or am I going to have to set up belays on small edges. I don't think she's be down for that. I'm just trying to get a few more opinions here so far I have 3 go for it's. Thanks
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davelwang
Jul 20, 2005, 8:50 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 56
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I have seen middle aged men with no climbing experience hauling themselves up white whale..... I think she would be ok. It might be good to warm up on a 5.6 to get her used to to smearing techniques (if she is primarily a gym climber), but I think if she has any climbing experience at all she should be ok.
It's a great route for beginners I think.
As for belay ledges, at the end of pitch one and pitch two there exist comfy ledges for belay, nothing hanging or scary. The climb can be done in 2.3 pitches so I think at every belay stance it would be pretty comfortable
Dave
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