Forums: Archive: World Climbing News:
Jeff Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for World Climbing News

Premier Sponsor:

 


Partner phaedrus


Jul 26, 2005, 9:22 PM
Post #1 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 3046

Jeff Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

On July 10, 2005 a team of four climbers: Pavle Kozjek, Miha Lampreht, Branko Ivanek from Slovenia and Aritza Monasterio from Peru completed the climbed the direct South Face of Trapecio (18,517 feet) in the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru. The hardest part of the route was climbed by Jeff Lowe in 1985, but he returned after climbing the crux of the route some 750 feet below the top. Lowe called it one of the hardest solo climbs of his career.

The team began at 5:00 in the morning and immediately met overhanging rock. There was much less ice in the wall than years ago and climbing conditions were varied. Due to bad ice conditions in the last steep pitch the team traversed to the right and climbed an overhanging rock chimney that opened the way to the upper snowfields. With two more steep pitches, they reached almost directly the top of Trapecio at 5:00 PM. They descended down the North face and reached base camp at 2:30 in the morning.


http://www.gore-ljudje.net/...i/trapecio/9_top.JPG
The four man team of Kozjek, Lampreht, Ivanek.and Monasterio


http://www.gore-ljudje.net/...o/trapecio-route.jpg
The route




http://www.gore-ljudje.net/...view_en.php?pid=3842

http://climbing.com/news/trapeciolowe/


whatsupdoc


Jul 26, 2005, 10:22 PM
Post #2 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 19, 2002
Posts: 312

Re: Alex Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Badass...but I'm confused, was the route first attempted by Jeff or Alex Lowe? The thread title and content seem to conflict.


atpeaceinbozeman


Jul 26, 2005, 11:05 PM
Post #3 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2002
Posts: 478

Re: Alex Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's Jeff Lowe, follow the links...nice stuff.

Tom


Partner phaedrus


Jul 27, 2005, 7:42 PM
Post #4 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 3046

Re: Alex Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
It's Jeff Lowe, follow the links...nice stuff.

Tom

Yeah, it was Jeff. I gotta learn to not post after beer. :P


atpeaceinbozeman


Jul 27, 2005, 7:45 PM
Post #5 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2002
Posts: 478

Re: Alex Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
It's Jeff Lowe, follow the links...nice stuff.

Tom

Yeah, it was Jeff. I gotta learn to not post after beer. :P
:lol:

I guess I'm gonna get myself into trouble then soon....


steeleman


Jul 28, 2005, 4:19 PM
Post #6 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 4

Re: Jeff Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trapecio is a badass mountain. I stood at the base of that bad boy in 2001 when it was a bit snowier

http://www.tahoebackcountry.net/...puscanturpaclose.jpg


overlord


Aug 1, 2005, 1:03 PM
Post #7 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120

Re: Jeff Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i knew kozjek was up to something this year... just didnt know what.


majid_sabet


Sep 5, 2005, 8:34 PM
Post #8 of 8 (5853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8368

Re: Jeff Lowe's 20 year old Peruvian testpiece completed [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Pirate

(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 24, 2008, 12:03 AM)


Forums : Archive : World Climbing News

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook