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phaedrus
Jul 26, 2005, 9:22 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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On July 10, 2005 a team of four climbers: Pavle Kozjek, Miha Lampreht, Branko Ivanek from Slovenia and Aritza Monasterio from Peru completed the climbed the direct South Face of Trapecio (18,517 feet) in the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru. The hardest part of the route was climbed by Jeff Lowe in 1985, but he returned after climbing the crux of the route some 750 feet below the top. Lowe called it one of the hardest solo climbs of his career.
The team began at 5:00 in the morning and immediately met overhanging rock. There was much less ice in the wall than years ago and climbing conditions were varied. Due to bad ice conditions in the last steep pitch the team traversed to the right and climbed an overhanging rock chimney that opened the way to the upper snowfields. With two more steep pitches, they reached almost directly the top of Trapecio at 5:00 PM. They descended down the North face and reached base camp at 2:30 in the morning.
http://www.gore-ljudje.net/...i/trapecio/9_top.JPG
The four man team of Kozjek, Lampreht, Ivanek.and Monasterio
http://www.gore-ljudje.net/...o/trapecio-route.jpg
The route
http://www.gore-ljudje.net/...view_en.php?pid=3842
http://climbing.com/news/trapeciolowe/
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whatsupdoc
Jul 26, 2005, 10:22 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
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Badass...but I'm confused, was the route first attempted by Jeff or Alex Lowe? The thread title and content seem to conflict.
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atpeaceinbozeman
Jul 26, 2005, 11:05 PM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2002
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It's Jeff Lowe, follow the links...nice stuff.
Tom
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phaedrus
Jul 27, 2005, 7:42 PM
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In reply to: It's Jeff Lowe, follow the links...nice stuff. Tom
Yeah, it was Jeff. I gotta learn to not post after beer. :P
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atpeaceinbozeman
Jul 27, 2005, 7:45 PM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: It's Jeff Lowe, follow the links...nice stuff. Tom Yeah, it was Jeff. I gotta learn to not post after beer. :P
I guess I'm gonna get myself into trouble then soon....
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overlord
Aug 1, 2005, 1:03 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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i knew kozjek was up to something this year... just didnt know what.
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majid_sabet
Sep 5, 2005, 8:34 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2002
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(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 24, 2008, 12:03 AM)
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