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p0bray01


Jul 29, 2005, 4:31 PM
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crack sport climbing
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Hey are there sport crack climbs? At the gym there is a crack climb that I top roped for the first time and it was awesome. However, I am gonna have to move into Trad to find good crack climbs?


andrewbanandrew


Jul 29, 2005, 4:34 PM
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Re: crack sport climbing [In reply to]
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You could move to France.

I'm joking.

Sort of.


caughtinside


Jul 29, 2005, 4:53 PM
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Re: crack sport climbing [In reply to]
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There are a few crack sport climbs. However, they are few, and they tend to be a bit... controversial. :P


dschultz


Jul 29, 2005, 5:00 PM
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Re: crack sport climbing [In reply to]
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Is a "crack sport climb" an oxymoron? There are a few in AZ at none other than Jack's Canyon. Yes, most of us who have been there have climbed "Sports Book" and liked it!

Name withheld....well sort of.

:wink:


jt512


Jul 29, 2005, 5:03 PM
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Re: crack sport climbing [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hey are there sport crack climbs? At the gym there is a crack climb that I top roped for the first time and it was awesome. However, I am gonna have to move into Trad to find good crack climbs?

The traditional ethic, especially in North America, is that if a route can take clean pro, it shouldn't be bolted, so there are few bolted cracks in North America. There are a few exceptions, though. For instance, some dedicated sport crags have bolted cracks, essentially for the convience of not having to schlep a rack to the crag. Typically, such cracks aren't particularly high quality. So, if you want to become a crack climber, you will have to learn to place gear.

-Jay


fracture


Jul 29, 2005, 5:15 PM
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Re: crack sport climbing [In reply to]
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Beth Rodden's route The Optimist is a sport climb, and is about half crack climbing. Many of the holds are old pin scars from when it used to be an Aid route. (And it's 5.14b).

:D


megableem


Jul 29, 2005, 5:22 PM
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Re: crack sport climbing [In reply to]
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.


crackmd


Jul 29, 2005, 5:46 PM
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Re: crack sport climbing [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Some people would argue that Indian Creek is a (crack) sport climbing area: single pitches, anchors 80-100 feet, pro every body length or so, plenty of opportunity to dog or TR. The only difference is that you carry cams instead of QDs. But in many respects, it qualifies as sport.

That's what makes the Creek so awesome. You can go for it like you can on sportclimbs because pro tends to be straightforward and can be places quickly.


stranded


Jul 29, 2005, 6:02 PM
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SnottGirlz down at Potrero Chico is a bolted multipitch crack climb.
Fun too.


overlord


Jul 31, 2005, 6:32 AM
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youll probably not find many in n. america, but there are some here.


rockrat_co


Jul 31, 2005, 8:14 AM
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indeed,
i know around here you will find a coupple but when an individual bolts a gear protectable crack the general climbing community seeks to hang that individual by their feet!


takanhase


Jul 31, 2005, 11:59 AM
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I have seen some protectable sport climbs at the black cliffs in boise. I have also herd of a bolted crack line up in boulder canyon in colorado! but for the most part they are few and far between (thank god)


p0bray01


Aug 1, 2005, 12:44 PM
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thanks I appreciate the help...ahhhh wallet you and me are going shopping for some pro. :lol:


elvislegs


Aug 1, 2005, 1:05 PM
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I have seen some protectable sport climbs at the black cliffs in boise.

i cna think of two particularly egregious examples at the mids.
ajax - 5.9
snake eyes -5.8

the beauty of it is that they are bolted in the oddest places and they are really pretty low quality in comparison to some of the stellar crack lines we have.


tucsonalex


Aug 2, 2005, 4:48 PM
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As mentioned above Jacks Canyon has some bolted cracks. Sport Park in Boulder Canyon has some very fine bolted splitter cracks, and Shelf Road has its share of bolted cracks too. Bolted cracks tend to be either controversial (like sport parks bolted granite splitters), not protect very well (like limestone cracks), or are bolted to avoid lugging a trad rack to a mostly sport area.


climbsomething


Aug 2, 2005, 5:37 PM
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Jacks for sure has bolted cracks, but not as many as people think. And Sports Book, for example, isn't a splitter- it's an awkward cracky thing to face whose smiley face endorsement seems a bit generous. But anyway, assuming the OP isn't trolling, why not find a trad leader to second?


irockclimb


Aug 2, 2005, 6:21 PM
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rofl bolted cracks WHY!?!?


jt512


Aug 3, 2005, 9:31 AM
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In reply to:
rofl bolted cracks WHY!?!?

Can you read? If so, read the post from Tucson Alex that's a whole two posts above yours.

-Jay


irockclimb


Aug 3, 2005, 10:05 AM
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Even on a splitter just climb it 2 much gear takes the fun out of the climb anyway


kpalsson


Aug 12, 2005, 9:09 AM
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Speaking of sporting it up at the creek, I met some people there who despite carrying a rack of cams, and leading up down left and right all day, said they don't consider themselves trad climbers at all, and wouldn't know what to do on a trad climb. Sling extension made no sense to them, and nuts were strange.

Kudos for knowing the limits of their skills, and mega kudos to being way hotter (both sexually and in climbing skills) than me, but it was still reallllly weird to see.

Walk up to the base and work out whether it's red, yellow or blue, then go and collect 6 of them and off you go.


md3


Aug 12, 2005, 9:26 AM
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In reply to:
mega kudos to being way hotter (both sexually and in climbing skills) than me, but it was still reallllly weird to see.

I want to see pictures of such awesome sexy weirdness.


asandh


Aug 12, 2005, 9:27 AM
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tucsonalex wrote:
In reply to:
or are bolted to avoid lugging a trad rack to a mostly sport area.

Yep, well, duh, that pretty much gives you all the excuse you need ... my trad rack's too heavy, bolt some cracks for me ... :cry:

Lets see ... Sport Climbers are ...

Too lazy to carry a trad rack ...
Too lazy to place their own draws ...
Too lazy to rap off their anchors so they lower ...
Worried about getting killed when they lower so they have a whole separate thread that whines about how dangerous it is ...

Sport Climbers ... How 'bout we just chop all the lead bolts because they are just there for show anyway, and you fess up to what you're really doing ...

Top Roping ... not that there's anything wrong with that. :roll:

... Then you could also have fixed ropes hanging from your fixed anchors ... oh, but then you'd still have to carry your shoes and chalk bag to the crag :cry:


janjaf


Aug 17, 2005, 3:20 AM
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Walk up to the base and work out whether it's red, yellow or blue, then go and collect 6 of them and off you go.

ah, now that's my kind of tradding. too bad it's in the US


potreroed


Sep 10, 2005, 3:17 PM
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There are a number of excellent bolted cracks at El Potrero Chico.

Devil's Lake in Wisconsin has hundreds of super-fine cracks which are easy to put a top rope on.


lardbutt


Sep 10, 2005, 5:00 PM
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Perry's lieback on the Grand Wall in Squamish is a classic all-bolts 7-inch wide splitter undercling/layback. You'll have to climb a bunch of regular trad to get to it, though.

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