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trillium
Aug 6, 2005, 6:31 PM
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I will be climbing in the Flagstaff/Sedona area this coming October and have purchased the book "Castles in the Sand". Does this book have all the information that I will need to find good routes in Sedona, or should I also get my hands on copies of Tim Toula's "A better Way to Die" and " A Better Way to Fly"? Thank you for your thoughts on this topic.
Trillium
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phugganut
Aug 6, 2005, 7:40 PM
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"Castles In The Sand" is a very comprehensive book for climbing in Sedona. I have "A Better Way To Die" which is the older book, but will get "Castles" when I have $ and feel like it. However, neither of them have much on Flagstaff.
I like climbing in Sedona but many do not, so beware. It's a different kind of climbing, and the rock mostly sucks. The views are spectacular though. HTH.
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joshklingbeil
Aug 6, 2005, 8:06 PM
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"A Cheaper Way To Fly" is a good book on the climbs in Flagstaff. What kinda of climbing are you looking to do? If you like multi-pitch climbs you will be climbing in Sedona. The rock in Sedona is good if you stay on the more traveled routes. Any climbs that David Bloom gives 3 stars is of excellent quality. Once you get down to 1 star or less expect some loose choss or bad protection or both. Not to say you can't have a 2 or 3 star climb with bad pro (e.g. dresdoom).
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joshklingbeil
Aug 6, 2005, 8:06 PM
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"A Cheaper Way To Fly" is a good book on the climbs in Flagstaff. What kinda of climbing are you looking to do? If you like multi-pitch climbs you will be climbing in Sedona. The rock in Sedona is good if you stay on the more traveled routes. Any climbs that David Bloom gives 3 stars is of excellent quality. Once you get down to 1 star or less expect some loose choss or bad protection or both. Not to say you can't have a 2 or 3 star climb with bad pro (e.g. dresdoom).
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joshklingbeil
Aug 6, 2005, 8:07 PM
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"A Cheaper Way To Fly" is a good book on the climbs in Flagstaff. What kinda of climbing are you looking to do? If you like multi-pitch climbs you will be climbing in Sedona. The rock in Sedona is good if you stay on the more traveled routes. Any climbs that David Bloom gives 3 stars is of excellent quality. Once you get down to 1 star or less expect some loose choss or bad protection or both. Not to say you can't have a 2 or 3 star climb with bad pro (e.g. dresdoom).
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trillium
Aug 6, 2005, 9:29 PM
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We will be climbing both Trad and sport; Trad in Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, and Paradise Forks, and Sport at "The Pit" outside of Flagstaff. We will be 8 women meeting in Flagstaff for a week of Arizona climbing. Thanks for the heads up on the Sedona sandstone. I have heard that some of it can be quite soft and variable in quality. We lead up to 5.9 Trad (Gunks) and 5.11 sport (Rumney). The mention of any favorite routes out Arizona way would be most appreciated.
Thanks for your input!
Trillium
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joshklingbeil
Aug 6, 2005, 10:19 PM
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The Mace Original route 5.9, Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride 5.9 on Summit Block Rock, Oak Creek Spire North Face-West Crack 5.9 is the the most exciting of the three. And also has the most choss with precarious loose blocks wedged in a chimney.Easy climbing but don't touch the time bombs. It also has a classic jump on the last pitch. Mars Attacks is a good ***5.8 4 pitch route. When at the overlook do Isaiah, Orange Out Direct, Answered Prayers is a good 5.9 with good stemming. It is real easy to setup toprope here and at Paradise Forks. There isn't much in the 5.9 range at the Forks. So set up tr up on some of the harder classic lines. Mayflower is a good 5.9 on the Prow Wall. Mister Slate 5.10b, Popeye meets the Burrito Master 5.9 first pitch, Its 5.11 if you do the second pitch which isn't that good and True Value 11a are good Sport routes at The Pit. Have fun and be safe.
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phugganut
Aug 6, 2005, 11:41 PM
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Yeah, what he said. Also, although I would give a big thumbs up to both Oak Creeek Spire and The Mace, it might be difficult with 8 people, especially on The Mace. Another recommendation at The Overlook is Sparky & Firedog, and another fave at The Pit is Mordor. If you want and I'm not busy then some friends and I would probably come up from The Valley and show you around.
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trillium
Aug 7, 2005, 6:24 PM
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Thank you for your input! 8 women are meeting for a week of climbing, but we won't all be climbing together all the time. Not everyone climbs at the same level, and not everyone will want to climb everyday. There is no way I will lead 7 people up a multi-pitch climb as it would take forever!
The Mace, Mars Attacks, Dr. Ribo, Oak Creek Spire, etc... they all look good. I appreciate you help!
Trillium
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trillium
Aug 7, 2005, 6:26 PM
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Thank you for your input! 8 women are meeting for a week of climbing, but we won't all be climbing together all the time. Not everyone climbs at the same level, and not everyone will want to climb everyday.
The Mace, Mars Attacks, Dr. Rubo's, Oak Creek Spire, etc... they all look good. I appreciate you help!
Trillium
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markguycan
Oct 1, 2005, 3:08 AM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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Sedona is a beautiful and adventurous place to climb. The soft rock, however, is often more than a novice climber is will climb on. How many experienced leaders do you have amongst yourselves? If you are the only leader you may want to stick with single pitch stuff, and stuff you can set up from the top. the Overlook is recommended, as are the classic routes per joshklingbiel In addition ck out Tisha Spire, Streaker Spire and the single pitch routes at the church area: Easy Rider, Genesis, Bliss, & first pitch of Castles in the Sand.
I'm local in Flag, I work 3days/wk so if I'm off when you're here I'd be happy to show you around--m
addendum: nice to meet you at "the pit", hope the rest of your trip ( rubos's etc) went well.--m
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hmsims
Oct 22, 2005, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2005
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Don't know if you have already been here in Sedona or not, but I live here and have done some guiding before. If you'd like some more information let me know. Always glad to introduce someone to the fun of Sedona Sandstone climbing.
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