|
|
|
|
cosmin
Aug 7, 2005, 10:33 PM
Post #1 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
|
7 August 2005 - 11:34 CET Tomaz Humar, solo, Rupal Face - Nanga Parbat http://www.humar.com/...0807113727_146_1.jpg Puts things in ... perspective...
In reply to: News from http://www.humar.com Attempting an international rescue 6.8.05 10:22 CET Tomaž has been trapped in the mountain since Wednesday - he is in a labyrinth of seracs and mushroom-shaped-snow (snow blown up to mushroom-shaped form) at the altitude of approximately 5900. The situation got dangerous because of the snow fallen yesterday, for the second day the snow in the face has been sliding strong – large snow slides erupting all around Tomaž – he is incredibly lucky to be stuck on the snow ridge, that is just the right height, so the snow slides don’t reach it. Because of the conditions descent to any side of the ridge would be same as suicide. So Tomaž yesterday asked for helicopter rescue. The rescue is fairly difficult due to the fact that the face is very steep. The plan was Tomaž will be rescued by a rope thrown to him from the helicopter. But the rescue didn’t go trough, no matter how hard Nazir Sabir and the expeditions members in the base camp tried to find a pilot to fly the helicopter. The current situation: In Pakistan Nazir Sabir is trying to persuade and start the rescue, meanwhile Viki Grošelj is searching for someone in Slovenia. They are both trying to find a flight crew. At this moment things started moving in some parts of Asia, but there is talk of getting someone from Europe. About the rescue both political sides have been notified.
|
|
|
|
|
strongerthanyesterday
Aug 7, 2005, 11:25 PM
Post #2 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 213
|
damn. hope he gets off the mountain okay.
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Aug 7, 2005, 11:37 PM
Post #3 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
philbox moved this thread from General to World Climbing News.
|
|
|
|
|
sharpie
Aug 8, 2005, 12:50 AM
Post #4 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 1111
|
I hope he makes it out, it is certainly not the first time he's been in a tight spot... Tomaz is quite an extraordinary guy, Timmo and I spent a little time with him in Ouray a few years ago. He's got the best handshake you'll ever experience... http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=35956
|
|
|
|
|
thomasribiere
Aug 8, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #5 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 9306
|
Tomaz Humar is a fantastic alpinist and himalayist... I hope everything will turn good for him. After the loss of Patrick Bérhault last year (who climbed with Humar by the way), it would a pity that Europe loses her best climbers. :(
|
|
|
|
|
grk10vq
Aug 8, 2005, 6:43 PM
Post #7 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2004
Posts: 527
|
Thats Gnarly!!! best of luck!
|
|
|
|
|
yannbuse
Aug 8, 2005, 6:48 PM
Post #8 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2003
Posts: 112
|
Picked up on the same story. An article from the BBC: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/south_asia/4131702.stm Hope he makes it out safely.. yann
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 8, 2005, 7:25 PM
Post #11 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
theyre hoping for a break in the weather tommorow. i sure hope he makes it.
|
|
|
|
|
cosmin
Aug 8, 2005, 7:36 PM
Post #12 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
|
News update from http://www.humar.com
In reply to: News We heard from Tomaž!!! 8.8.05 08:16 CET Tomaž told us he is very cold, that he is wet and afraid of frostbite. Doctor Anda instructed him to take some Aspirin and Adelat to try to move as much as possible and melt some snow for some warm liquid. We think he had to dig to keep his bivouac clean all night because it was snowing very hard. In the morning we presume, he then fell asleep. We read him the e-mails of his brothers and told him about the updates on the rescue. We are still hoping for some good weather today. Weather bad in coming days - we try to encourage Tomaž 8.8.05 10:23 CET The weather above Nanga Parbat is still cloudy, just above the valley we can se a patch of blue sky from time to time. We heard from Tomaž two more times in the last hours. We keep talking to him about what's new, how the rescue plan is progressing and how people belive in the fact he will be rescued. New pictures from under Nanga Parbat 8.8.05 13:15 CET Because of the weather is getting better hope remains. Getting food to Tomaž would be something we all wish for.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 8, 2005, 8:14 PM
Post #13 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
well, hes certanly using hes troubles for a good cause. because the whole county is currently holding its breath and waiting for news about him, hes using the attention to try and convice the poewrsthatbe to finnaly start constructing the new pediatrics clinic in ljubljana. hope someone hears him and listens.
|
|
|
|
|
enjoimx
Aug 8, 2005, 9:00 PM
Post #14 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 23, 2004
Posts: 378
|
The pictures are amazing. Humar's website is updating pretty frequently it appears. Hope he gets off ok.
|
|
|
|
|
thomasribiere
Aug 9, 2005, 8:17 AM
Post #15 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 9306
|
awful night for him... I wish he just returns with frostbites. :(
|
|
|
|
|
cosmin
Aug 9, 2005, 8:43 AM
Post #16 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
|
From http://www.humar.com
In reply to: News An idea!!! 8.8.05 18:56 CET Tomaž's appeal: Let's raise some money for the paediatric clinic! Dear Slovenians, It's nice to hear you're writting to me and my friends from base camp keep forwarding those messages to me - many of you would like to help, to donate money. I'm thankful for every warm thought, and fist clenching. Yesterday, they read me an e-mail sent by a little girl, who is praying for my safe retun from the mountain. And I had an idea, as we are all united here as brothers and not foes, therefore I hearby address this appeal to you, to finally remove this sin from our chests and build the paediatric clinic. My friends will open a transparent account, where all transactions will be traced and visible, so we can see how much money we will be able to raise, for our children's better future. Let's build the clinic, let's open our hearts and hands, I'm glad we're are all as one again - united. Thank you again for being with me with heart and soul, it gives me confidence and the idea of being united keeps me warm. Another night awaits me. I'll be freezing, and I haven't eaten in days ... But let's do this and make it happen - I'm already grateful for our children's better tomorrow. Thank you. by Tomaž Humar, mountaineer Things still are rough but there is some hope:
In reply to: Tough night 9.8.05 07:02 CET It was raining all night long, and in the morning it began to pour as if it were judgement day. Tomaž called in around 8:30 am. The fifth nigh in the icy trap was challeging. "If the weather stays like this, I won't be able to hold on for much longer, this is not a biouvac anymore, it's pouring all over me, and everything is freezing!" It was -5C at night - in his sleeping bag! To keep warm he trys to move around as much as possible, he was fighting the snow all night long which was narrowing down his living space. The doctor, Anda, advises him to keep drinking as much much warm fluids (melted snow/water or tea) as possible, as dehydration accelerates frostbite. But Tomaž told us yesterday that he drinks less than a litre of fluids a day! It's difficult to cook in that small space he is in, and his gas supply is low to - he's burning the last tank. He asked if the weather forecast promises some improvement. The clouds are already breaking over the bas camp and the view of the mountain is slowly unfolding. At the moment the visibility is up to 4500m. The forecast is promissing. It should stabilize in the early morning, and Wednesday and Thursday should have clear skies. But we have to make notice that this weather report for Nanga Parbat means clarity from 5-8 am, therefore we will have to hurry up with the rescue. A promise was given that a LAMA helicopter with the best trained Pakistani pilot will arrive at base camp as soon as the weather improves and then we will only have to wait for a clear view of the rock wall. We receive a lot of encouraging e-mails for Tomaž. Now when he longs for warm thoughts and words we can read him the majority of them - almost every one - Anda keeps reading the heart-touching messages to him till late night. And I let him know how the humanitarian appeal is coming along. The response was unbelievable - amazing what kind of ideas one can have, trapped in a life threatning situation.
|
|
|
|
|
strongerthanyesterday
Aug 9, 2005, 8:47 AM
Post #17 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 213
|
its touching and amazing that, even though he as an individual is faced with such dire circumstances, he is thinking of others. I really, really hope he gets off the mountain with nothing more than a bit of frostnip. *keeping my fingers crossed*
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 9, 2005, 11:46 AM
Post #18 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
last news from less than an hour ago... the weather is clearing and two helis are about to lift off (there are three at the basecamp, two lamas for rescue and one to carry fuel). i hope they manage to get at least some supplies to the man. and hell be very lucky if he gets off with just frosbite.
|
|
|
|
|
taualum23
Aug 9, 2005, 12:42 PM
Post #19 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370
|
I do not know Tomaz Humar any more than what I can gather from what I read about him. But this man, who is literally freezing to death, without food, facing the POSSIBILITY of a rescue, unsure how long he will be alive, is still fighting for his cause for the childrens' clinic. I am going to his website to see how to make a donation. Far be it from me to tell others how to spend their money, but maybe some of us can help Tomaz make a differnce.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 9, 2005, 1:23 PM
Post #20 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
In reply to: I do not know Tomaz Humar any more than what I can gather from what I read about him. But this man, who is literally freezing to death, without food, facing the POSSIBILITY of a rescue, unsure how long he will be alive, is still fighting for his cause for the childrens' clinic. I am going to his website to see how to make a donation. Far be it from me to tell others how to spend their money, but maybe some of us can help Tomaz make a differnce. good luck with the website because its currently really overloaded. ill look around and try to find out if you still can donate money for the clinic (the money is pretty much raised, just the policians are arguing about the location (wich was supposed to have been agreed upon) and stupid things like that). the two helis got off the ground and so far everyting is going preety much as planned and theyre trying to approach him. if theyll be unable to make the rescue theyll try to drop some supplies.
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 9, 2005, 2:57 PM
Post #21 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
the rescue attept failed completely because of bad visibilty. though tomaz reported that it was clearing and the helis got underway imediately but by the time they reached hes altitude another clound enveloped tomazs position and they had to break up the attempt. the communication works 100% though and hopes are high for tommorow when better conditions are expected.
|
|
|
|
|
cosmin
Aug 9, 2005, 3:04 PM
Post #22 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
|
FINGERS CROSSED!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
hasbeen
Aug 9, 2005, 3:47 PM
Post #23 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 543
|
How did you get that info? My site has the rescue attempt just taking off. Are you using another site, or humar's new site?
|
|
|
|
|
tradnomad
Aug 9, 2005, 3:59 PM
Post #25 of 63
(26030 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 1, 2004
Posts: 201
|
In reply to: How did you get that info? My site has the rescue attempt just taking off. Are you using another site, or humar's new site? The english version of the site isn't updated as quickly as the Slovenian (??) part, so if you can read Slovenian you can get the news quicker (or wait for Overlord's updates).
|
|
|
|
|
|