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dood1983
Aug 9, 2005, 4:05 PM
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when trad climbing and i place a piece of pro, when should i extend it w/ a runner or draw? also, should i worry about using sport draws (stiffer material) or trad draws (using toothfloss spectra runners)?
thanks a lot...
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feanor007
Aug 9, 2005, 4:11 PM
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see 'quickdraws in trad climbing' thread, it's still on the front page
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grk10vq
Aug 9, 2005, 4:14 PM
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You want to extend anytime your pro has an option to move. The main idea behind extending is to not tamper with your placement. ie-wiggling or walking.
I almost always extend my pieces. Its just a good habit cause you never know. As for using a runner vs. quickdraw-I usually try to predict my next set of moves, my direction, the ropes direction, ect. If your wandering on a route-a runner is a good idea cause it'll give you more movement options being that runners tend to be longer.
As for trad draws see: Quickdraws in traditional climbing.
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dood1983
Aug 9, 2005, 4:23 PM
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thanks
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pjcozzi
Aug 9, 2005, 5:10 PM
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You also want to extend to reduce rope drag. This includes at the start and ends of a traverse, when the placement is under a roof, or when the placement is out to the side.
In general, you want the rope to run as straight as possible.
Imagine if you placed a piece out to side without extending it. Then you took a fall a few pieces higher, the piece out to the side will get a strong sideways pull that you might not have anticipated and it could pop, extending the length of your fall.
Patrick
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king_rat
Aug 11, 2005, 12:27 PM
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extend when rope drag is going to cause you a problem, if the route zigzags, or the rope is going to get caught under a roof or behind a flack. also extend when the runner may walk out due to rope movement. often your first runner will walk if you don't extend it.
Sports Draws are ok for trad climbing if, the placement is good and there is not an issue of rope drag. but because they are stiff and short, poor placements may be wiggled out and they may cause rope drag on meandering routes. But they are neat to rack. Its really down to personal preference if you use them or not.
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billcoe_
Aug 11, 2005, 7:02 PM
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All good responses.
I'd add, I rarely extend, but if you are not sure, adding a runner/draw or backing it up with another piece is quite often the safest and best move.
Quickly observing the pieces your rack, how high on the pitch you are, and if you will need that piece higher is a good idea. Don't waste a lot of time on it unless you are on a nice stance, just drop it in as backup and go or look for your next stance, forget about the pieces you just placed and just go.
I'd do that until you are sure so that you can increase the survival odds.
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wambear1
Aug 11, 2005, 10:33 PM
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I like to extend anytime I have pieces zig-zagging up a route quite simply because I learned that you should endeavour to have the rope follow as vertical a path as possible form the belay to the climber. This helps to minimize drag and makes it less likely that a piece will be compromised.
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