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skerry00


Aug 16, 2005, 9:33 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
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New York Info  (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Central: Moores_Wall: Hanging_Garden)
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I'm going to The Gunks and only have a day, what guidebook and routes does anyone suggest? I lead 5.9 trad. but will have a beginner with me so I'll probably stick to 5.6-5.7 and under.

Also, are there any good spots in that region without the crowds during the weekend?

Thanks


maimed


Aug 16, 2005, 6:37 PM
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Re: New York Info [In reply to]
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Dick Williams' new "Climbers Guide to the Shawangunks" (the "Grey Dick") and the now out-of-print Williams "Gunks Select" are the standard guides, although Williams' previous "Black Dick" AAC guidebooks are still around as well. You can pick up a copy at Rock & Snow in New Paltz, or various other places.

There's an incredible variety of awesome terrain to fill a day, though the Trapps and Near Trapps are likely to be very crowded on a weekend day (unless it's ungodly hot or threatening hail or both).

www.gunks.com has a great routes locator which will give you great suggestions for uber-classic routes.

Enjoy!

-Matt


gblauer


Aug 16, 2005, 6:53 PM
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Re: New York Info [In reply to]
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Easy fun climbs:

Horseman 5.5-
Madame G's 5.6
Frogs head 5.6
High Exposure (not so easy) 5.6
RMC 5.5?
Dennis 5.5
Sixish 5.4
Bunny 5.4
Betty 5.3 (and all of the 3nd ptch variations)
Rusty Trifle 5.6

Gelsa 5.4 (the nears)
Disneyland 5.6 (the nears)

Harder fun climbs:

Snookys return 5.7
Bonnies Roof 5.9
Ants line 5.9


Partner cracklover


Aug 16, 2005, 8:03 PM
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Re: New York Info [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Easy fun climbs:

Horseman 5.5-
Madame G's 5.6
Frogs head 5.6
High Exposure (not so easy) 5.6
RMC 5.5?
Dennis 5.5
Sixish 5.4
Bunny 5.4
Betty 5.3 (and all of the 3nd ptch variations)
Rusty Trifle 5.6

Gelsa 5.4 (the nears)
Disneyland 5.6 (the nears)

Harder fun climbs:

Snookys return 5.7
Bonnies Roof 5.9
Ants line 5.9

More easy roofs! Let's see - Maria and Shockley's Ceiling spring to mind.

GO


skerry00


Aug 17, 2005, 6:37 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
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Re: New York Info [In reply to]
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Thanks for the suggestions, the only other time I've been to the Gunks I ended up staring at them from the second floor of some bar in New Paltz, it rained for a week straight.

Hopefully I'll have better luck this time around.

Thanks Again!


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