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phaedrus
Aug 17, 2005, 9:44 PM
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Hans Florine has set a new speed-solo record for The Nose on El Capitan, climbing the Yosemite route in 11 hours 41 minutes. The past record of 12 hours 59 minutes was held by Dean Potter’s solo during Potter's one-day solo of both El Cap and Half Dome in 1999. Florine also holds the speed record on The Nose of 2 hours 48 minutes, set with Yuji Hirayama in 2002.
Florine used a combination of techniques for his trip up El Cap including self-belayed leading, unroped soloing and “Metroviching” — a term created after Russ Mitrovich speed-soloed Zodiac without a rope, using daisy chains to stay clipped to at least two pieces at all times. Florine passed a Korean party of four near the Great Roof, taking time to fix several ropes above them and to retrieve some water for them from Camp VI.
For Hans' report: http://hansflorine.com/NIAHD/
http://hansflorine.com/NIAHD/sickleS.jpg
Hans Florine
http://www.supertopo.com/...el_swf_3_nose_lz.jpg
The Nose route
http://climbing.com/news/nosesoloflorine/
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enjoimx
Aug 18, 2005, 1:28 AM
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congratulations Hans...what an accomplishment
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azrockclimber
Aug 18, 2005, 5:05 PM
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sick...
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Aug 18, 2005, 5:14 PM
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soloing that is incredible. just climbing it is a feat in itself. congrats to hans.
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bler
Aug 18, 2005, 5:54 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
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hollywood Hans does it again !
Hans is local to my area and i have heard so many funny and great stories about him, he is definatley an inspiration to any climber !
CONGRATS !!!
(edit : I cant speel ;) )
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hford
Aug 19, 2005, 9:39 PM
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Registered: Aug 16, 2005
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He's a good chess player, too. I was lucky to beat him just one time when he blundered and hung that knight.....CONGRATS!
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karlbaba
Aug 26, 2005, 10:23 PM
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Mad Props to Hans!
Nobody can say Yuji was a crutch for this one. It's particularly Rad since Hans is so damn old. Trust me, he looks younger than he is!
Go man Go
Karl
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majid_sabet
Aug 29, 2005, 3:21 AM
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I thought I heard some one did it in 2:33 min.
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karlbaba
Aug 29, 2005, 7:06 AM
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In reply to: I thought I heard some one did it in 2:33 min.
The record for a team is held by Hans and Yuji. This is the solo record we're talking about.
Peace
karl
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markguycan
Oct 1, 2005, 1:12 AM
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Sorry for my naivete'
Could someone please explain why a solo record could take so much longer than the team record, it seems it should be the other way around. 11:41 vs 2:48?
At any rate, hat's off to you Hans!
Back in the mid 90's I used to claim fame for being able to climb harder than Hans Florine's girlfriend -after top roping "More Funky than Monkey"!
---M
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paulc
Oct 1, 2005, 3:42 AM
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The reason that solo climbing takes so much longer than traditional two person teams is that there is only one person climbing, rapping and cleaning, so you actually have to typically climb each pitch twice and rap it once. It sounds like he may have skipped some of the cleaning by using other peoples gear or at least ropes through fixed pieces, but either way an awesome achievement.
Way to go Hans.
Paul
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joshklingbeil
Oct 1, 2005, 3:48 AM
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The only way to make a solo effort faster than a paired team is to employ Metroviching tacticts up most of the wall. When you rope solo You must go back down the pitch and clean the gear, jumar and then haul all by yourself.
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chrispencc
Oct 1, 2005, 4:47 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
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I understand that this is a fairly unrelated post but are there bolted anchor points on any of the pitches of this climb, dont mean to sound like a noob but im unfarmiliar with the climbing ethics of this area
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paulc
Oct 1, 2005, 5:33 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
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In reply to: I understand that this is a fairly unrelated post but are there bolted anchor points on any of the pitches of this climb, dont mean to sound like a noob but im unfarmiliar with the climbing ethics of this area
Sorry to say, but you do sound like a noob (troll?), check the free supertopo. You might do a little more research on your own to avoid the noob factor.
http://www.supertopo.com
Paul
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