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mbg
Aug 19, 2005, 10:17 AM
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What are peoples’ opinions on the best way to reach Broadway this time of year without an alpine start? We’ll bivy in the cave so will be carrying decent sized packs. Anyone had a good enough look at Lambs Slide recently to report on the ice / snow ratio?
Thanks
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takeme
Aug 19, 2005, 10:41 AM
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In reply to: What are peoples’ opinions on the best way to reach Broadway this time of year without an alpine start? We’ll bivy in the cave so will be carrying decent sized packs. Anyone had a good enough look at Lambs Slide recently to report on the ice / snow ratio? Thanks
I'm a bit confused by your post--do you want to climb the Diamond? If so, Lamb's Slide is a terrible option. If you're bivying above Chasm Lake, the North Chimney is definitely the way to go. Or are you saying that you'll be bivying in the Broadway bivy cave? In that case, with big packs, Chasm View raps might be a good option.
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mbg
Aug 19, 2005, 10:53 AM
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Yeah, we'll bivy in the Broadway cave. The traverse from the bottom of the Chasm View raps looks a bit arduous. Do you know if there is much snow left on Broadway?
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takeme
Aug 19, 2005, 11:00 AM
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In reply to: Yeah, we'll bivy in the Broadway cave. The traverse from the bottom of the Chasm View raps looks a bit arduous. Do you know if there is much snow left on Broadway?
You will not encounter any snow traversing from Chasm View. You would encounter snow on Broadway below the extreme left side of the Diamond if traversing from Lamb's Slide.
I'm not sure what you mean by "arduous"--it might be a bit loose, but I don't think it's too big of a deal. Might be a spot or 2 where a rope would be nice. I've heard that traversing over from Kieners is much hairier.
My main issue with the Chasm View raps is the extra 1000 feet of gain and extra miles on the approach hike. If you are hiking up during the day and have plenty of time, then pitching out the North Chimney isn't too big of a deal and that's what I would do personally.
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mbg
Aug 19, 2005, 11:07 AM
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Thanks, Charles.
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rockprodigy
Aug 19, 2005, 1:02 PM
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I think bivying on B-way is a bad idea. The ass-pain involved in getting your bivy gear up there is not at all worth the extra one hour (at most) you will gain in the morning. Example: You could bivy at Chasm view (all easy hiking up to there) then in the morning it will take you about 30 minutes to rap and scramble over to the base of whatever route you want to do. On the other hand, rapping and scrambling with heavy bivy packs (possibly in the dark) could take hours. Then you have to rap again with those packs to get off B-way.
Another good option is to bivy at Mills Glacier and simul-climb the N. Chimney in about 30-45 minutes (with light day packs). With bivy packs, that could be a heinous epic.
Again, like takeme said...hiking up to Chasm view is a big pain. It's an additional 1000' that you lose when you do the raps, and a lot of extra miles. That shiz adds up when you're above 13k. I recommend bivying at Mills glacier and going straight up in the AM.
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maldaly
Aug 19, 2005, 2:36 PM
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I've done the Diamond probably 30 times (10 of those times guiding it)and it's waaaay easier to R/T it in a day instead of bivying. I've tried it both ways with clients and had a much higher success rate when we hiked in from the bottom. Nobody, nobody gets a good night's sleep up there, particularly if it's your first night that high. You're way better off leaving the parking lot so you hit the bottom of the North Chimney at first light and I can almost guarantee that you'll pass bivying climbers on the way. If you're worried about finding your way, go up there a few days ahead of time and scope out the path around the lake. It'll be good for your lungs and good for your psyche. You could also stash heavy stuff up there and make your approach easier on the day of the climb.
Mal
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paulmadry
Jun 29, 2007, 4:54 AM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
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hi
if i still want to sleep in broadway cave is it hard to find it? right or left from north chimney?
what i'd want to do is to climb in lazy pace stettner ledges or kor's door day before (and voluntarily drag our big pack). is the traverse to cave resonable?
thanks
paul
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maldaly
Jun 29, 2007, 12:28 PM
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The bivy cave isn't much of a cave. It's right near the base of the Yellow Wall start.
Mal
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