marc_from_quebec
Aug 21, 2005, 10:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 21, 2005
Posts: 3
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Aero-Tango or how exposed can 5.9 be? Early August, Lac Long, Quebec. Our very first visit to the crag. Me: Look at that roof! JP: Yeah. It looks kinda... ugh... very large. Me: There’s a crack on the left side. Local hardman: That’s Aero-Tango. Nice route. That pitch really only is 5.9. And above the roof it’s very easy. JP and me: 5.9?! You’re kidding. Local hardman: Well, you need to do a 5.10 pitch to get there... Two weeks later. Me: Remember that roof route? Let’s just go to the base and give it a look. [Short uneventful approach deleted.] Me (no 5.10 leader by any mean): The first pitch is a steep crack in a kind of small corner. Looks doable. This could be a nice route for us someday. That roof looks huge from here. JP: Well, if you’re game to lead it... One more week later. JP: Climb when ready. Me (thinking about the 5.10 climbing higher up): I think I’ll just go through that small hole and get inside the chimney behind the pillar. There’s no need to get tired on that first layback section. Wise decision. Easy climbing leads to steep rock. That crack is a splitter. Glad I have my large cams. Nice #4 cam. But it gets steep and hard. No foothold to speak of besides that wide crack. This must be the crux. What should I do? Ok, first thing, think. I’m tall. I sure can use these long arms... Stretch, stretch... Jug! Thank you dad for making me this tall. This felt no more than 5.9. More jugs lead to the belay ledge. [JP follows the pitch easily.] Me: Well, I’m not sure “huge” is strong enough a word to describe this roof. That’s a 12-foot ceiling. JP: The face moves to reach it look hard. Me: And there’s not much pro... I’ll give it a look anyway. Watch me. There’s a long reach there. Thanks again dad. These look like good holds. Me: I go. There’s no turning back before I can get pro up there. Reach for good hold. Match hands. Left foot up high. There’s a rock spike with lots of chalk on it. This must be a jug... Stretchhhhh Yes! Now find a way to get that cam in the crack. Whoa that’s a good undercling. Go in baby... Put draw, pull rope... More rope... Followed by that most ecstatic sound: clip! Put a second piece farther to the left. Shake off for a few seconds, then just undercling the hell out of that roof while I’ve still got strength. Reach for the lip... Another jug! Take your time, place your feet, the rest is supposed to be easy. Hell no! I’m wasted. Place pro... Place pro now! Clip. My forearms hurt. Me: Take! (then, looking at huge void under my feet:) Holy shit! Five minutes timeout man. [More grunting finally leads to the belay.] JP (upon arriving at the belay): It sure was exposed and scary. Me: Yeah... Listen! You heard that? There’s cold beer calling us down there... http://pages.infinit.net/...ango/Aero-Tango1.JPG http://pages.infinit.net/...ango/Aero-Tango2.JPG http://pages.infinit.net/...ango/Aero-Tango3.JPG http://pages.infinit.net/...ango/Aero-Tango4.JPG
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