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backclipped
Aug 22, 2005, 12:12 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2005
Posts: 137
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It's sad, I know, but a recent move has made my fingerboard the only medium of consistant climbing available to me. The dislocation is temporary, but I need some imaginative arbitration: could someone lay down an aggressive, but not ridiculous, fingerboard workout for me. I've got my thing going on, but I"m losing steam.
Thanx
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schnoz
Aug 22, 2005, 12:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2003
Posts: 83
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What sort of dislocation do you have that allows you to still use a fingerboard but unable to climb?
Just remember that when using a finger board, always tape your fingers. Never crimp, always use open hand.
Try to vary the holds and the size that you use as often as possible during the work out. If you can hold a specific hold at a deadhang for more than 12 seconds or so, add some weight to yourself if you want to be working on strength.
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les
Aug 22, 2005, 1:31 AM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 41
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I think he might be reffering to a dislocation of place, not an actual injury. Ex. he moved from Cali to Kansas. Maybe I'm wrong though.
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tobym
Aug 22, 2005, 8:57 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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Or buy a socond one, and do the Dave Graham workout, with one either side of doorway
ftp://153.19.47.73/pub/filmy/dave_small_amazing_things.mov
if that doesn't work, go here and click on "Dave small amazing things"
http://www.zanik.pl/filmy/
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backclipped
Aug 22, 2005, 10:57 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Jul 25, 2005
Posts: 137
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Thanks, that 8a.nu site ought to do it (I've already checked out Metolius).\
Yes, I"ve been relocated from Bend, OR to Orland, ME, which "dislocates" from climbing. Yeah, there is climbing here, but I have to fight through touron wonderland (aka Bar Harbor) to get to it. In addition I'm not rich in partners. Sooo...I feel dislocated, but nothing anatomicall is dislocated.
Thanks again
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