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Bolting at Rocklin Boulders!
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camoaero


Aug 23, 2005, 8:42 PM
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Bolting at Rocklin Boulders!  (North_America: United_States: California: Sacramento_Area: Rocklin_Bouldering)
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It looks as if someone put top rope bolts on Pacific Street Wall. Two above Nemesis and another one elsewhere. Who the hell would do that? Next time I go I may just bring a pair of bolt-cutters. If you can't handle a ten foot fall onto a boulder pad...go pull some plastic at the gym.


glowering


Sep 11, 2005, 10:09 AM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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Wow, I just saw these as well.

I can remove these the correct way (pry out and fill the holes) but I'd like to see if anyone else has an opinion if these should stay or go.

I climbed Nemesis yesterday and was thinking if these are in the way of the top out at all they are coming out, but they weren't in the way.

Anyone else have an opinion on these?


saxonyclimber


Sep 11, 2005, 11:02 AM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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If the bolts are not causing a visual impact and they do not interfere with the actual climbing, then I would let them stay and just chuckle at their presence.


joshklingbeil


Sep 11, 2005, 11:46 AM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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In reply to:
If the bolts are not causing a visual impact and they do not interfere with the actual climbing, then I would let them stay and just chuckle at their presence.
Chuckle until every boulder has bolts.


deschamps1000


Sep 11, 2005, 1:06 PM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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I don't even know where Rocklin bouder is, but if this is your local spot, don't sit and do nothing! Figure out who bolted it. Tell them that it had already been established as boulder problem. If they refuse to pull their own bolts, do it for them.

That is a fair and diplomatic solution. Don't let that crap go!!!!!!!!


glowering


Sep 11, 2005, 3:42 PM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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I'm thinking about putting a note on the bolts asking why they put them there, and giving them a chance to remove them on their own.


slobmonster


Sep 11, 2005, 3:47 PM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I'm thinking about putting a note on the bolts asking why they put them there, and giving them a chance to remove them on their own.
Give them a time limit, as well. Something that invites discussion or questions (even anonymously, on the 'net) might speak well for your apparent reasonability. But if the note is gone, and the bolts stay, then perhaps you should chop-chop.


lofstromc


Sep 11, 2005, 4:43 PM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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I just saw a photo of the boulder you're talking about. That is a boulder problem, not a route!
I say start choppin, after you attempt to find out who put them up. If you do find out whom/who (sp?) it was, maybe you could point out to them that since they were obvously planning on having a belayer, they should just use that person as a spotter. Then say DUH! :wink:


glowering


Mar 22, 2006, 7:50 AM
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Re: Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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Well the bolts are gone..

But, we all blew it. :evil: The sally who bolted the top of a boulder problem, me for not removing the bolts correctly when I had the chance, and the bolt chopper who chopped the bolts and left the studs in the rock instead of prying the bolts out and filling the holes.

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

Anyone tried to clean up chopped bolt studs flush with the rock? Maybe I could drill everything out and fill the hole?


syftestad


Nov 27, 2007, 3:44 PM
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Re: [camoaero] Bolting at Rocklin Boulders! [In reply to]
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Those bolts have been cut out, thankfully. They only lasted about two weeks. I have noticed many unnatural scars on routes that have been created to make problems easier. That is bad form and selfish as well. If the route is too hard, train more and then try again. To the right of the friction slab, and on the friction slab itself, there are 4 or 5 such markings.

That is not the way to climb on established routes, or for that matter, non-established routes. I've been climbing these routes since 1999, and friends of mine since 1985. This is a new generation error.

If you see this happening, please educate the offenders for all of us.

Thanks
PS No bolts.


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