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Todd Skinner FA of El Cap
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g-funk
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Aug 24, 2005, 2:24 PM
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Todd Skinner FA of El Cap
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I just watched this tape of a speech that Todd Skinner gave for sales professionals back in 1995. He talked about completing the free ascent of El Cap after which his anchor pulled on the summit breaking his partner's leg in 5 places, and crushing Skinner's ribs. Anybody know which route he took on that climb?

Also, in the speech he mentions that he was heading off the next day to the Karakorum to climb the Unnamed Tower in Pakistan. Was that climb successful?


curt


Aug 24, 2005, 2:31 PM
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I just watched this tape of a speech that Todd Skinner gave for sales professionals back in 1995. He talked about completing the free ascent of El Cap after which his anchor pulled on the summit breaking his partner's leg in 5 places, and crushing Skinner's ribs. Anybody know which route he took on that climb?

Salathe Wall, I think. His partner on the route was Paul Piana.

Curt


dingus


Aug 24, 2005, 2:33 PM
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Salathe Wall, with Paul Piana, 3rd free route on El Cap to the top.

They slung a big block at the rim. The block actually slid off the cliff while they were using it for an anchor. It hit them and knocked them off too I think. Saved by a backup piece if memory serves.

I have no idea about the Pakistan thing.

DMT


chiranjeeb


Aug 24, 2005, 3:32 PM
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The route on Nameless Tower is called Cowboy direct. Check the latest issue of the Alpinist for more details or http://www.toddskinner.com


g-funk
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Salathe Wall, with Paul Piana, 3rd free route on El Cap to the top.

DMT

3rd Free Route? In the speech, he seemed to lead people to believe that it was the first, but perhaps I misunderstood. Who were the other two? Were they on the East Buttress, or were they "legit" big wall first free ascents? Just curious, and by the way I'd love to do the East Buttress one day, don't want to undermine anybody's accomplishments there.


curt


Aug 24, 2005, 3:56 PM
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Salathe Wall, with Paul Piana, 3rd free route on El Cap to the top.

DMT

3rd Free Route? In the speech, he seemed to lead people to believe that it was the first, but perhaps I misunderstood. Who were the other two? Were they on the East Buttress, or were they "legit" big wall first free ascents? Just curious, and by the way I'd love to do the East Buttress one day, don't want to undermine anybody's accomplishments there.

#1 - East Buttress

#2 - West Face

#3 - Salathe Wall

Curt


dingus


Aug 24, 2005, 4:00 PM
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Salathe Wall, with Paul Piana, 3rd free route on El Cap to the top.

DMT

3rd Free Route? In the speech, he seemed to lead people to believe that it was the first, but perhaps I misunderstood. Who were the other two?

Note I did not say 'freed a big wall.' I said it was the 3rd free route to the top of El Cap.

East Buttress first, FFA Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed, 1964. I think Todd was 4 then.

West Face, FFA Ray Jardine and Bill Price, 1979. I don't think ANYONE can say the West Face, at 20 pitches and solid grade V, isn't a big wall.

Salathe was 3rd.

DMT


g-funk
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Aug 24, 2005, 4:11 PM
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Note I did not say 'freed a big wall.' I said it was the 3rd free route to the top of El Cap.
DMT

Sorry, my mistake.


micronut


Aug 24, 2005, 4:35 PM
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Salathe Wall, with Paul Piana,

Saved by a backup piece



DMT

i saw paul piana give his slide show of the climb at a mountain film fest. when i was a teenager. he said they were saved by a rusty pin that looked like it was placed by the FA team. it held while the rope broke.

seeing paul's show was of the experiences that led me to try climbing. but i thought, "this guy's a poser, he's not freeing it, he's got a rope right there."


youreup


Aug 24, 2005, 4:53 PM
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Whether Skinner or Piana can climb the FFA of the Salathe is still subject to debate.


curt


Aug 24, 2005, 4:58 PM
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Whether Skinner or Piano can climb the FFA of the Salathe is still subject to debate.

Why? Did you do it first? Hahahahaha.

Curt


ddriver


Aug 25, 2005, 10:29 AM
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Yes, there has been some doubt about the "free" ascent claim by Skinner and Piana. I'm in no position to say, though apparently the free route taken now differs from the standard route somewhere above the ear, but Todd's description of the accident on the summit is funny as hell.

It was no "block" that came off, rather as they describe it a "small planet" of a boulder that cut loose. It severed more than one rope and both were way lucky to survive the event. Of course the boulder hit the base of El Cap and one can only imagine what the impact was like. Apparently, shortly before the boulder cut loose, Todd had thrown a piece of carrot off the route or the summit and it hit a woman climber walking near the base. Some time later when Todd was on the road with his slide show of the climb, the same woman was in the audience and asked Todd if he had indeed thrown the piece of carrot that hit her. Todd's response was something to the effect that, "you obviously haven't been climbing very long since you don't understand common climbing signals: carrot comes before rock."


overlord


Aug 25, 2005, 10:57 AM
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Re: Todd Skinner FA of El Cap [In reply to]
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"you obviously haven't been climbing very long since you don't understand common climbing signals: carrot comes before rock."

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

he made it out of this with colors blazing. what an excuse :P


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