|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Aug 29, 2005, 2:21 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
My wife and I just got back from our annual climbing vacation. What started out as dissapointment turned out to be a fantastic trip. Originally, we had planned on going to Squamish, but a couple months ago, our finances did not look so promising so we decided we couldn't afford it. After deliberating on any climbing area within driving distance, we decided on spending a few days in NH and then heading to Acadia.
The first day was spent at Rumney and I was one move away from getting the redpoint on an 11c. Oh well, maybe next time. The second day, we were headed to franconia notch for some trad. When we arrived, though it started raining. After tooling around Nh for the rest of the day, we woke up the next morning and decided to head to Acadia a day early because it was still rainy the next morning.
We had been having some problems with our car before we left but had a couple things fixed before we left and thought it was good to go. Well on our drive to Maine, what started out as a faint noise coming from the rear turned into a loud, very disturbing noise. What we thought was that our mechanic did a piss-poor job. What we found out was that it was our rear wheel bearings and if we drove it home, the tire might have come off. Luckily we found some to fix it on Mount desert island in only a day.
As for climbing, We climbed at the Precipice, Otter Cliffs, and Canada Cliff. The PRecipice was awesome and has some of the nicest lines I have ever been on. I spent most of my time leading a lot of 7's and 8's, but during the week I led my first 5.9 (Recollections of Pacifica/5.9-) and my first 5.10 (Guillotine/5.10a). Recollections actually felt easier than London Bridges (5.8) and Crack of Senility (5.7), though. London Bridges is actually called "Bitch" by the locals. It's this off-width crack which inside it narrows to a smaller crack which is where I got most of my gear in. It's a series of lay backs, an occassional stem, and whole body jamming. I was told by a guide that if I can do that, I will do well out west, because he said that just about every long climb out there has a pitch like that. Having never climbed out west, I had to take his word for it.
Tiffany had a great week , too. She's been dealing a lot with the demons in her head when on lead, and for the first time in a while, seemed very confident. She did awesome!
I guess I am rambiling now, so I will end it. It was just a great trip and I didn't regret not going to Squamish (although, hopefully next year).
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Aug 29, 2005, 2:40 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
Hi Josh - sounds like you and Tiff had a good trip. I don't know if you did "Adare" (By the Sea) at Otter - but you should - very leadable but you should probably TR at first - arguably the best 10 in the NE. For a different type of 10 a good one is "Stratacaster" on Eagle Crag - the setting is nice - probably have the place to yourself. It's a sport climb (4 bolts but no anchors) - also you must go to Great Head - heed all the warning about wind, waves and tides - it's like Otter on steroids - rap in and do Morning Glory - one of the best 8's anywhere.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Aug 29, 2005, 2:46 PM
Post #3 of 4
(1489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Hi Eric, Thanks for the info. WE TR'ed "A dare" last time we were there. Next time, I would definitely like to lead it. We have not been to Great Head or Eagle crag yet. We just fell in love with Precipice so we spent three of the days there.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Aug 29, 2005, 6:18 PM
Post #4 of 4
(1489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
In reply to: Glad to read that you had such a good trip to Acadia. I remember speaking w/ you 2 a few weeks ago @ Rumney & the Precipice was mentioned. I think it's some of the best granite in New England, w/ enough moderates to last a lifetime. Eric is absolutely right about Great Head. Morning Glory is amazing, & the Head Arete is probably the best climb of its grade (5.10d) in New England. With the level that you're climbing @ Josh that route would be perfect for you. I'm certain you'd hike once you got over the heebie jeebies induced by being on an arete that hangs out directly over the ocean. It is spectacular.
Second the recomendation for Head Arete - I've done it twice and loved it. The first time I was still "young" (at 45) and thought the bolting was fine. 10 years later all of a sudden I had gotten older (wiser?) and noticed that the bolts seemed a bit further apart. I carried a small rack and added some pieces here and there and it worked out fine.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
