Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Red Rock need a little general beta...
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


joshy8200


Aug 29, 2005, 2:00 PM
Post #1 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 646

Red Rock need a little general beta...  (North_America: United_States: Nevada: Red_Rock_Canyon: A_Red_Rock_Overview)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So I'll be heading out to Red Rocks Oct 6-9ish. What's a good guidebook for the area to purchase? Any special rack considerations? Any little details one that is familiar with the area might throw my way would be great.


Partner taino


Aug 29, 2005, 2:13 PM
Post #2 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 5371

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Get the SuperTopo guide. You can DL it and print it double-sided, then bind it - or, order one already bound.

Double all listed approach times. No, I'm not kidding.

Bring a lot more water than you'd normally carry.

If you're thinking of leading a classic, get there EARLY. 9am isn't early. Neither is 7am.

If it rains, let the rock dry for at least 24 hours. This is for your own safety.

Rack considerations... *shrug* I used a standard Gunks rack when I went there, and had no problems; I did wish I had a few more larger pieces, though.

Have lots of fun!

T


climbs4fun
Moderator

Aug 29, 2005, 3:43 PM
Post #3 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 9679

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The new Roxanna Brock and Jared McMillan guide book is excellent! It will still be fairly warm at that time of year, so plan your climbs accordingly. Have fun!


yetanotherdave


Aug 29, 2005, 5:11 PM
Post #4 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 243

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
If it rains, let the rock dry for at least 24 hours. This is for your own safety.
And so that you don't tear off key holds and turn the cool 5.11s into ugly .12s :)


vegastradguy


Aug 29, 2005, 5:15 PM
Post #5 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
The new Roxanna Brock and Jared McMillan guide book is excellent! It will still be fairly warm at that time of year, so plan your climbs accordingly. Have fun!

its also overkill if you're just visiting. get the supertopo.

if you want detailed beta on any classics, pm me. approach times in ST are accurate if youre a decent hiker in good shape and can routefind quickly.

bring cams to 4" at least to give you the most options for climbing without running it out.


joshy8200


Aug 30, 2005, 7:14 AM
Post #6 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 646

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm figuring it will still be a little warm...the avg high temp for Oct on weather.com says 81. So I'm thinking highs in the 80-90 range. You locals think that is a good estimation? 81 is the temp for Las Vegas. Does Red Rocks get much cooler temperatures with elevation gain or is it pretty negligible?


vegastradguy


Aug 30, 2005, 5:19 PM
Post #7 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

couple degrees. the truth is that you can count on 85 and sunny weather, and if that doesnt appeal to you, then, well...i dont know what to say. it'll be cool in the mornings and warm in the afternoon...chase shade if you have to- it'll be in the 70's in the shade.


flamer


Aug 30, 2005, 7:09 PM
Post #8 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I'm figuring it will still be a little warm...the avg high temp for Oct on weather.com says 81.

80-90 is nice @ RR. You'll be shitting in high cotton if it's 80 degree's in Vegas!!

josh


vegastradguy


Aug 30, 2005, 7:12 PM
Post #9 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

no shit...i spent a couple of Red Rock days out this year and the temps topped somewhere around 115....so, over 100 in the shade! i'll take 80 and sunny anyday!!!


landgolier


Aug 31, 2005, 9:34 AM
Post #10 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 714

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

80-85 in the desert is money. If you don't like climbing in warm, dry conditions, go somewhere else :D

I need a little rack beta for out there. I want to do some long, easy classics (solar slab, etc...), and haven't gotten my hands on the guidebook yet. For multipitch trad up to 5.8, is a full double set of cams really necessary, or are we talking about a standard rack plus maybe 4 extra pieces in the red alien to #1 camalot range? Leave the hexes at home? The small tricams?

Edit: Brassies/micros? (I'm guessing not)


crackmd


Aug 31, 2005, 9:53 AM
Post #11 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 23, 2002
Posts: 444

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
80-85 in the desert is money. If you don't like climbing in warm, dry conditions, go somewhere else :D

I need a little rack beta for out there. I want to do some long, easy classics (solar slab, etc...), and haven't gotten my hands on the guidebook yet. For multipitch trad up to 5.8, is a full double set of cams really necessary, or are we talking about a standard rack plus maybe 4 extra pieces in the red alien to #1 camalot range? Leave the hexes at home? The small tricams?

Edit: Brassies/micros? (I'm guessing not)

Speaking in general terms, you will be fine on most all RR routes up to 5.8 with a set of cams, wires and lots of slings/draws. You will also, in general be fine without micronuts. The cracks tend to be varied in size with good constrictions (with exception of course). This makes stoppers useful. Many climbs also have scattered bolts for your clipping pleasure.


vegastradguy


Aug 31, 2005, 9:50 PM
Post #12 of 12 (4950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: Red Rock need a little general beta... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

one key cam, or rather, a fairly useful cam is one in the 4" range. Many popular and classic routes require the use of one out here, so bring one if you have it.

otherwise, most routes will protect nicely with a set of stoppers and a set of cams. some exceptions require multiple pieces, but hell, even Epi only requires a single set of cams to 4"....


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$13.46 (10% off)
$26.96 (10% off)
$201.56 (10% off)
$15.16 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook