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Mystery Climb in LCC???
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mrtristan


Aug 30, 2005, 12:02 PM
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Mystery Climb in LCC???  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Salt_Lake_-_Utah_Counties: Little_Cottonwood_Canyon)
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So my partner and I went up to the Waterfront in Little Cottonwood this morning for some friction. Our plan was to do the 5.9- on the Waterfront (Comfort Zone) and then the .10a further to the right (Barefoot in Barbados). Well, we get on what we thought was the 5.9 and a few minutes later are cursing Little Cottonwood and its hardcore slab masters who say this route is 5.9. We bust out the guidebook and figure out that the climb we did was on a slab BETWEEN Comfort Zone and Barefoot in Barbados, and not in the guidebook. It had four bolts and was pretty well protected. The rock was crumbly though. All of the "holds" fell apart as you weighted them. The anchors (two bolts with a ring on each hanger) were up and to the right of the line. Any idea what this climb is?

-Tristan


mrtristan


Aug 31, 2005, 6:04 PM
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hopeful BUMP


triznut


Sep 22, 2005, 9:28 AM
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Did it involve a few sweet mantels and then a long runout to the chains?


mrtristan


Sep 22, 2005, 9:35 AM
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I'm not sure about the mantles, as I didn't get up the thing cleanly. But yeah, I think it was kinda runout to the chains.

Crumbly POS...

-Tristan


golsen


Sep 22, 2005, 10:41 AM
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hi,
about a bazillian yeas ago my friend put in a route (I think the first in that area), 10ish called mantles to mazatlan. I dont know if that was the route you were on.
G


mistymountainhop


Sep 22, 2005, 11:49 AM
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I believe it was bolted in 550 BC by Jews who sailed straight from Jerusalem who later became known as Native Americans. Or the Angel, Fuglim bolted it, thats what the sear stones imply at least.

I noticed the anchors too, I would have tried it, but the route looked liked one of...... marginal quality, thats why it might not be in the book. my $0.02


mrtristan


Sep 22, 2005, 12:12 PM
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In reply to:
hi,
about a bazillian yeas ago my friend put in a route (I think the first in that area), 10ish called mantles to mazatlan. I dont know if that was the route you were on.
G

Nope. Mantles to Mazatlan is in the guidebook, and this route isn't.


triznut


Sep 22, 2005, 1:00 PM
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The route I'm thinking about, we got on thinking it was Comfort Zone (could of been, still not sure) 5.9 Sand Bag.......
I remeber the quailty of the rock being good for the most part, their was a flakey section that I hit towards the top that contributed to one of the best whippers I've taken (it's been a couple years). I rememebr their being 4 classic mantels up before the bottom of the slab ramp, instead of gaining the ramp I traversed along the side of the ramp (problably the hard way), walking my feet across a flakey slab, that lead to a thin corner crack mini roof (i think) (this is were I popped off just before clipping the last bolt, thanks to a flake breaking on the slab), clip the last bolt then run up to the top.
I need to go back and do this route again...... SUPER FUN!!! Classic lcc!!!


tenesmus


Sep 22, 2005, 1:07 PM
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love it when holds flake off in lcc. sure way to go for a ride! Thank goodness for a great belay huh triznut? Believe you saved my can more than once that way.


triznut


Sep 22, 2005, 1:19 PM
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Didn't love the flake that broke but did love the good catch... And yes for some odd reason I liked the climbing envolved..... :twisted:

Hey what comes around goes around Tenesmus...


mrtristan


Sep 22, 2005, 8:52 PM
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The route I'm thinking about, we got on thinking it was Comfort Zone (could of been, still not sure) 5.9 Sand Bag.......
I remeber the quailty of the rock being good for the most part, their was a flakey section that I hit towards the top that contributed to one of the best whippers I've taken (it's been a couple years). I rememebr their being 4 classic mantels up before the bottom of the slab ramp, instead of gaining the ramp I traversed along the side of the ramp (problably the hard way), walking my feet across a flakey slab, that lead to a thin corner crack mini roof (i think) (this is were I popped off just before clipping the last bolt, thanks to a flake breaking on the slab), clip the last bolt then run up to the top.
I need to go back and do this route again...... SUPER FUN!!! Classic lcc!!!

Yeah, that sounds like Comfort Zone. That's a great climb and felt like 5.9 to me... and we bootied a biner off it! This mystery climb is the first bolted line right of Comfort Zone.


triznut


Sep 23, 2005, 9:59 AM
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Yeah, that sounds like Comfort Zone. That's a great climb and felt like 5.9 to me... and we bootied a biner off it! This mystery climb is the first bolted line right of Comfort Zone.


Yeah was probably 5.9 and would of been a good onsite if it weren't for that darn flake given out just before clipping the last bolt in the mini roof.

So mr t did you gain the slab ramp right away after clipping the second to last bolt or did you traverse right staying low on the side of the ramp, while walking your feet a cross that steep flaky slab that gains a nice thin short finger crack too mini roof just below the last bolt? I sat there for a couple minutes before deciding to go right, I'm thinking i should of just gained that lower angled ramp right away instead??? Oh well that's the fun of going out and getting on new things...

I don't recall seeing another bolted line just right of CZ, but it's been 2 or 3 since we where on that stuff.
With this good weather now would be a good time to go back...Hmmmm...


triznut


Sep 23, 2005, 11:30 AM
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Yeah was probably 5.9 and would of been a good onsite if it weren't for that darn flake given out just before clipping the last bolt in the mini roof.

So mr t did you gain the slab ramp right away after clipping the second to last bolt or did you traverse right staying low on the side of the ramp, while walking your feet a cross that steep flaky slab that gains a nice thin short finger crack too mini roof just below the last bolt? I sat there for a couple minutes before deciding to go right, I'm thinking i should of just gained that lower angled ramp right away instead??? Oh well that's the fun of going out and getting on new things...

I don't recall seeing another bolted line just right of CZ, but it's been 2 or 3 since we where on that stuff.
With this good weather now would be a good time to go back...Hmmmm...

This sound like what i did:
This was part of a description for CZ on www.climbingsaltlake.com
In reply to:
By: Anonymous Coward from 67.186.233.13 Report to Moderator (What's this?)
On: 8.30.2005
Comments: After you mantle that giant chickenhead, there is a variation finish that goes out
right to that "flake" ear thingy. Can be a little gritty sometimes, and adds a more
sustained finish to what Nathan called weak (the real finish is super easy
escape left and up if'n yer scared). This variation apeared sometime around 95 I
think, maybe earlier? Calderone maybe, I dunno, don't quote me on that.
Anyway, it is kind of fun, even though you cast off, before you can see the bolt,
maybe a touch runout depending on your friction skills. try it, sure to excite!
Again tougher for short folks...."look" for that chickenhead over e lip!


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