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phlyfisher


Jul 26, 2002, 8:44 AM
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I'm going for the weekend to the city of rocks. Can anyone sugguest some good sport routes in the 10-11 range that I shouldn't miss while I'm there.



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climbinganne


Jul 26, 2002, 9:08 AM
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upper city...
decadent wall...Abortions on parade and flesh for fantasy
super hits-bloody fingers...bloddy fingers, A MUST do 10a

center city...
transformer wall...dynamo hum 10c and vibrator 10d
bumblie wall...new york is not the city 10a and bumblie takes a tumblie 11a


elephant rock...the pigmie's got stoned10a and beware of nesting ego's 11b

just to name a few of my favorite's

have a great time man....don't forget the sunscreen

edited cause i didnt read your question right:sheet...did you say sport routes....sorry!!!!

forget bloody fingers, abortions on parade vibrator and ego's cause they are mixed and/or trad

Phly.....get a trad b*tch to lead for you!!!!!

[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-07-26 09:14 ]


crackwhore


Jul 26, 2002, 9:31 AM
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Flaming rock West face: Tribal Boundaries (probably the best .10a at the City) also pretty good is Firewater (.11b) just downhill from TB.

Bath rock has shade and 3 great routes:
Collosus(.10c), Lochness Monster (.11b) and Gemini (.12a)

Window rock West has the awesome Shes the Bosch (.11b and somewhere around 18 bolts!!) 2 ropes needed.

Lost World West has The Drilling Fields (awesome .11b and very steep) and Pigs on a Wing (.11a to the right)

Parkinglot Rock: Cairo (.11a arete on the cover of the old book) great route. also Thin Slice (.10b finger and hand crack) to the left.

Morning Glory Spire has one of the best .11s at the City (Strategic Defense .11c) but you might want a couple pieces to reach the 1st bolt.

Elephant rock has Pygmies got Stoned (good .10a) and Pretzel Logic (.10c) you might want a large cam to avoid a moderate runout on this one.

hope this helps ...

many, many more... but these are my favorites in this range of SPORT climbs.


rocknpowda


Jul 26, 2002, 9:34 AM
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What up Phly?

I was going to see if you wanted to go climbing this afternoon, but I'm sure you'll have alot more fun at the city.

I reccomend the following-though there are plenty of other killer routes (exuse me for routes I can't remember the names of-consult the guidebook for final say):

Elephant Rock-Just say go 5.9
Strawberry somethin?-really cool 10a bolted slab w/ edges-pretty much the first route you come to.
Farther to the right there is a good 10a on a semi-detatched pillar up high-good route stick clip the first bolt off the ledge if you can.

Roller Coaster Wall/Bath Rock-
Collossus 10c-AWESOME
To the right of collosus one or two routes is a challenging 11b that goes up a neck-like feature that is pretty good.
At the far right of the wall is a good kinda-steep juggy 5.10 with only 3 or 4 bolts up high. Good-route used to not have any bolts.

Flaming Rock-
Tribal Boundaries-10a often crowded
Fire Water 11b-good and pumpy
10c- next to the 11b, good too

Slabbage Patch-
I can't believe it-10a really cool rock
deez guys-10a overhung and juggy, down the hill from I can't believe it

The Drilling fields-
The 11b on the left is AWESOME-juggy and slightly hung-way better and easier than the 11a to the right. shouldn't be very crowded.

Morning Glory Spire-
The 10c just right of skyline is killer

Parkinglot Rock-
Just another pretty face 10d is good and slabby
Cairo 11a is good and thin

Window Rock-
She's the Bosch 10d/11a is a 16 bolt marathon that is really cool

Oddyssey wall
oddyssey 10a

Boxtop-
10a is pretty good, haven't done the 11a.



Who are you going with, anyone I've met?





phlyfisher


Jul 26, 2002, 12:25 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions.

Anyone else who is interested in climbing this weekend in city of rocks is welcome to hook up with my partner and I. We'll be leaving tonite and be coming back on sunday.



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[ This Message was edited by: phlyfisher on 2002-07-26 12:43 ]


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