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Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah
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esallen


Sep 8, 2005, 9:21 PM
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Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Moab: Castle_Valley)
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For someone who knows:

Can you make 4 rapps with one rope to get down, or do you need 2 ropes?

How is the road getting out there? Do I need an SUV?

Thanks!

Eric


haas


Sep 8, 2005, 9:31 PM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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I was out there last May and the road was fine for my nonSUV. We rapped twice with double ropes, but we passed a ton of bolted anchors, so I'm sure you could do it with one rope, but double check with someone else. Also I recommend the North Chimney over Kor-Ingalls route personally.


esallen


Sep 9, 2005, 6:05 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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Thanks! I really appreciate the info. Does anyone else have an oppinion on the rapp?


deschamps1000


Sep 9, 2005, 6:11 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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I climbed it a couple of years ago. We took 2 ropes to rap down the North Face. I think that you do need 2 ropes.

You do not need an SUV. You may have to walk an extra quarter mile or something but you'll be fine. I'm assuming you are taking the paved road up Castle Valley, and then taking a left into the parking/camping area.

I would also recommend the North Chimney. It's one of the best routes I've ever done.


jg


Sep 9, 2005, 6:11 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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The road is fine; it is a paved road from Moab up into Castle Valley; you turn off the paved road, drive a couple of hundred feet on dirt, park and start walking. Rap the North face; less chance of getting ropes stuck and usually less traffic comming up.


clippedclimbing


Sep 9, 2005, 6:32 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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to keep it safe and simple, you want two ropes for your raps of the north face.....


tradmanclimbs


Sep 9, 2005, 6:56 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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Wouldn't catch me on a desert tower with only one rope!


esallen


Sep 9, 2005, 9:58 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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Sounds good; we'll bring two.


forkliftdaddy


Sep 9, 2005, 10:12 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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Yeah, definitely take two ropes, especially for that first rap down the North Face.

After that, if one of your ropes whips around the corner in the relentless wind with a knot in the end and won't come back -- relentless wind -- AND there is no one up top to help you out, well, you can make the 2nd rap with one rope and then tie off the rope and single strand it to the ground.

An epic at sunset with temps dropping and big dark clouds approaching? Nah, surely not.


alorama


Sep 9, 2005, 10:51 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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Hit it Spring of last year-I do not know if the situation has changed. We made it down with one 60m rope. With the wind there is a good chance of rope issues on the way down. Have Fun- it is a fantastic area.


tradclimbr


Sep 9, 2005, 11:10 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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If you take one rope let me know so I can go up and get all the gear you leave for rap stations. I'm always looking to fatten up my desert rack. :wink:
Another vote for North Chimney route, unless you like offwidth. Not that you won't find a bit of that on the NC. And don't forget your helmet as the chimney funnels rockfall.


visionseeker


Sep 9, 2005, 11:47 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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I did the Kors route 2 years ago. Awesome!

Another party was topping out ahead of us. They had ONE rope. While my partner and I were enjoying the view/waiting for them to begin their rap, we heard an "Oh F@#$"!! As we came up to them they said they couldn't find their rope. I laughed maniacally. I mean, how do you LOSE YOUR ROPE!!! As it turned out one of them had kicked it off the tower. I have no clue how this could possibly happen, but I'm sure stranger things have happened.

Moral: Bring two ropes, in the event noone else is there.


boadman


Sep 9, 2005, 12:05 PM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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If I remember correctly, the first pitch on the North Face is a bit of a rope stretcher. I don't think that it would be possible to make it down with one unless you rap the Kor-Ingalls route. The Kor-Ingall's Route has a little bit of loose rock on it though, so if you rap that, you want to be really careful of climbers below you. I, personally, liked the Kor-Ingalls route much better than the north chimbley, better climbing, gear, and less choss. Don't get on it before noon though, it's definately a solar oven. If you're up for a little more of a challenge, do the first two pitches of the north face, and then break left up a 10d lieback followed by a beautiful 12b bolted calcite crimpfest. It's my second favorite route in the world.


flamer


Sep 9, 2005, 2:51 PM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I, personally, liked the Kor-Ingalls route much better than the north chimney, better climbing, gear, and less choss.

Agreed. A much better route.

josh


jakewolf


Sep 9, 2005, 3:20 PM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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Did Kor Ingalls a few years back and we rapped something on the back side. We came up Short on the last rap, had to walk three pieces down. Also did NC another year. We had three people and we actually rapped Kor Ingalls with zero problems. NC was much much more fun and more classic in my opinion. For KI I remember the guide book saying double to like 3 inches or so, but I would disagree, I rarely remember the change to place singles except for smaller stuff in small cracks inside the chimney. Anyone else have this rack opinion?
_Good luck, have fun, two ropes- Jake


ddriver


Sep 12, 2005, 11:12 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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The crux pitch on Kor-Ingalls is really good, but otherwise the climbing isn't really that great. I'm in the North Chimney camp, even though you could say the same thing about it. The first pitch of NC is pretty damn stellar.


esallen


Sep 13, 2005, 8:16 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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Thanks guys; Tristan and I did North Chimney on Sat and had a blast! Very cool route.

Eric


texplorer


Sep 13, 2005, 8:22 AM
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Re: Beta for Castleton Tower, Utah [In reply to]
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N. Chimney, Kor-Ingals, and N. Face are all great routes with alot of history. You CAN rap the Kor-Ingals with one rope.


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