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maculated
Jul 23, 2002, 5:44 AM
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Hey guys, what little bit I've been able to take part in has been pretty fun. Everybody's really awesome! I. Karen makes excellent pasta!
It's kind of stormy here, though. Kind of is an understatement. It rained and hailed all day. Should be clearing up soon.
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nailzz
Jul 22, 2002, 3:54 AM
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At the behest of rrrADAM it is my duty to start this thread.
The trip was excellent and I find myself missing the park and wishing I was still there. I left with more than enough food for probably another five days but the folks at the job might not have appreciated me not showing up for another 4-5 days.
The climbing was superb, no other way to describe it. Even the no-star ultra runout we got on my first day there was more than satisfying. There's a story behind that climb, but it won't be told here. Here was my schedule:
DAY 1 - Fiddler on the Roof 'Heaver variation'. 5.10c on Fairview Dome that rrradam boldly led. I liked the bottom half better than the top, we'll leave it at that. Due to a delayed start and a messed up route, we rapped mid-way up the dome.
DAY 2 - Mega Bleam. 5.10a bolt line led by Dan, not sure if he has a screen name. We wanted to do Northwest Books, a 3-star, 3-pitch 5.6 but the looming clouds led us to stay on the single pitch that would be easy to bail from. It proved wise when it started raining and hailing once we had completed Mega Bleam.
DAY 3 - Munginella. 5.6 in the Five Open Books area in the Valley. I led the first pitch then got off-route on the second pitch and ended up rapping along with rrradam and company who were on the 5.9 next door. My route-finding skills need some work.
DAY 4 - West Country. 5.7 four pitch route on Stately Pleasures Dome. This was by far my favorite climb of the trip although I loathed the slabby descent in my Tevas. Smithclimber did most of the leading this day but I did get in one pitch that more than satisfied the thrill-seeker in me.
DAY 5 - Munginella (again). This time we stayed on route all the way to the top. Smithclimber was leading and did a fine job. Great climb but a little anticlimactic after the previous day on West Country.
All the people were great and I got a chance to climb with more rc.com members and hopefully made some connections for future climbing trips.
I can't thank rrradam and karen enough for their hospitality, it was only due to them that I had the aforementioned extra food that I returned home with. My favorite was the jumbalaya (sp?) followed closely by the chili mac. But then again the steak, potatoes, and onions were excellent also ... it was ALL GOOD!!!
I met many cool people on the trip, people I hope to see again and climb with in the future:
Smithclimber, Arrockgirl, Floof, Jeepmonkey, Maculated, jmlangford, not to mention the folks that we climbed with who weren't from the site.
In short, I'm changed. It would take way too much time to hash through all the great details of the trip here but at least now the thread has begun and the memories and future plans may commence!!!!
See you all next time!
-Tony
Edit: spelling
[ This Message was edited by: nailzz on 2002-07-22 21:31 ]
Edit 2: fleshed out added a few details that were left out.
[ This Message was edited by: nailzz on 2002-07-23 22:14 ]
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floof
Jul 23, 2002, 6:11 AM
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Sah-weet, I get to make the first TR.
Just came back. I got there late and left early, but the day and a half of hanging out (har har) with the rc crew was great.
Adam and Karen were very hospitable and all the other folk were wonderful company. I'd elaborate but I'm falling asleep at the keyboard.
So, yeah. All you bastards missed out on Yosemite granite, and the sweet Merced.
* * * John
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rrrADAM
Jul 23, 2002, 11:45 PM
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Just got back, astill going through 48 PMs that have accumulated with my slow dial-up connection.
Had to surgically move the 2 above posts from the Events Forum to this thread, that's why they appear first.
Will provide a detailed Trip Report soon. Hell, I still have to unpack my Pathfinder.
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rrrADAM
Jul 24, 2002, 5:26 PM
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Sunday:
Arived in Yosemite, and set up camp. Called nikegirl to update thread, thanx T.
Monday:
Tried to find Kristen (maculated), but no go.
Onsighted Direct Northwest Face (3 pitch 5.10c) of Lembert Dome. Karen cleaned, and my friend Josiah showed up just in time to tie in and do the route with us.
Tony (nailzz) and Jody (jmlangford) showed up that night.
Tuesday:
Wanted to climb the Regular Route (7 pitch 5.9) at Fairview Dome, decided to climb Fiddler On The Roof 5.10a to pass slow parties instead. I got off route, did a 5.10d variation on the 3rd pitch through the roof system, in which Tony took a 30' pendulum fall, and got so fatigued he started to dry-heave while doing the roof. It is there fore named: Fiddler On The Roof (Heaver Variation) 5.10d (R/X).
Julie (arrockgirl) was waiting at our campsite when we returned.
Wednesday:
Back to Lembert, tried Cryin Time Again 5.9 with Julie and Peter, got off route again, and did a dirty .10a to a ledge. Rapped down before a hail storm forced the climbing day to come to a close.
Thursday:
Onsighted Commitment (3 pitch 5.9) at 5 Open Books of Lower Yosemite Falls with my friend Josiah. Beautiful views, weather, and climbing. Loved the Route. Tony and Julie did the first 2 pitches of Munganilla 5.6 before getting off route and joing me at the 2nd pitch rap. (I was a bad influence on him in regards to getting off route. )
Swam in the Merced River after Julie bought pizza for all.
Joseph (jeepmonkey) and Jennifer showed up that night with the best microbrewed rootbear in the world.
Wes (smithclimber) also showed up that night.
Friday:
Lead and set up TRs on a 5.8 Handcrack and a 5.10c LB at Lower Yosemite Falls for Karen, Joseph, and Jennifer to play on. Josiah and I went to Ten Years After 5.10d a 90' sustained thin finger crack/seam that can be sewn up with small wires. More swimming at the Merced.
John (floof) showed up that night.
Saturday:
Took a party of 5 up the 3 pitches of Commintment 5.9 back at the 5 Open Books. I lead, Karen cleaned, then Jennifer, Joseph, and John followed. It was the first multipitch for the 3.
Wes and Tony did Munginilla 5.6.
More swimming at the Merced.
Paul (addiroids) and Drew showed up that night.
Sunday:
Instead of fighting traffic back to LA, we decided to stay another day and climb, and leave Monday.
Took Paul and Wes up the 3 pitches of Direct Northwest Race 5.10c of Lembert Dome.
Drew, Kristen, Karen, and John did a 5.8 near the Water Cracks.
Wes lead the 1rst pitch of Cryin Time Again 5.9 with Kristen and I following.
That's about it. If I forgot something, or you have any details to add please do. Will add photos when I get the 13 rolls developed, many of which were taken on rappel or from belays set to get the best angles.
This was very low key and more personal that other events I've attended. Had a great time, and am sorry it had to end.
Wish Mark (fiend) could have been with us.
~Adam
[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-07-24 10:44 ]
(This post was edited by rrrADAM on Apr 20, 2011, 12:50 PM)
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jmlangford
Jul 25, 2002, 4:47 AM
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Hey Tony! Baaaaaaaaaaaarffff! At least you barfed from exhaustion, I would have been barfing from fear! It was fun watching Adam, Tony, and Joe on that climb. Very glad I declined the invitation to join. Next day, I free-soloed an easy route next to Cryin' Time Again to get a better view of the crew climbing that route. About noontime on that day(Wednesday), I took Julie(arrockgirl) over to Daff Dome to do some of the cracks on the South Slabs. Waited in the car for nearly an hour waiting for the hail/rain/lightning to stop. Got tired of waiting so we drove toward the sunshine to the west and found dry rock at the base of Mountaineers Dome.Introduced Julie to her first Tuolmne off-width. I am telling you, that girl has ABSOLUTELY NO QUIT in her! What an absolute pleasure to be around! After that climb I gave her the tour of the Meadow, my campsite at Tioga Lake, the view of the Third Pillar of Dana, and showed her Mono Lake. Topped it off with dinner in Lee Vining before heading back to Yosemite Creek.
Met rrradam, i.karen(what a cook!), nailzz, saw maculated again(she introduced me to a great guy...Jeff?...I think his name was...and Jeff took me up a cool crack climb on Daff Dome. Josiah, Adam's friend was a cool guy also-totally hilarious! Wait till I post the pic of him belaying Adam on fairview. Sorry I had to miss out on meeting the people that showed up later in the week. Sorry about natec's emergency appendectomy That sounded painful! On my way back home-stopped at Camp 4 and flashed Dominator(V12)! All in all, a cool trip!
[ This Message was edited by: jmlangford on 2002-07-24 22:12 ]
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arsenalcrater
Jul 25, 2002, 4:57 AM
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Sounds like a great trip!!! I'm hoping to head out to the valley this Sept, but I might be guiding a river trip at the time of my friends departure. Did any of you do the West Crack of Daff Dome? That is a really really cool moderate. Any thing on the Phoebos and Deimos (sp?) wall? Pretty cool stuff up there too.
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natec
Jul 25, 2002, 4:58 AM
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Really bummed I missed all of you. Maybe next year.
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bobtheboulderer
Jul 25, 2002, 5:27 AM
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Hey jm! Dominator? Are you sure you had the right problem? If it was, you are my hero! I think you might have been mistaken though.
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rrrADAM
Jul 25, 2002, 6:00 AM
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Jody... We all thought I was going to have to rescue you off of Lembert when you climbed up to get a better angle for pics. Good to see you figured out the downclimb.
When are you coming down South to SoCal ???
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jeepmonkey
Jul 25, 2002, 6:26 AM
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As usual many thanks go to Karen for providing great, gasous meals. The Jambeleya (sp) really helped with the ascent up the 3 pitchs of Commitment.
And, Adam was great as our leader up Commitment. He, along with Karen, got 5 folks up and down 3 pitches without incident. Well that is save for using a short rope on the second rappel. "What did we learn today," asked Adam? "Always use the longest ropes on rappel"
Jennifer and I enjoyed meeting Tony, Julie, John, Wes, Paul & Drew.
Hey Adam, did you stop by the Indian Wells brewery to buy their entire stock of Root Beer?
With Joshua Tree and Yosemite, who would want to live anywhere else in the world? Oh yeah, and great root beer, too.
Joseph
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rrrADAM
Jul 25, 2002, 6:36 AM
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Bought 6 1/2 Gal bottles, 3 refills and 3 new ones.
Also got you a good bottle of '98 Merlot (pronounced "mer-lot" by Julie ), give it to you tomorrow at the Gym.
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addiroids
Jul 25, 2002, 8:51 PM
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Yeah, Drew and I had a blast. We drove up Thursday night and got to the entrance at 2am Friday morning. Got up too late, and did the Regular Route on Fairview swinging pitches and taking a variation for pitch 4 instead of the 5.6 ramp that was full of people. I think we were on Wonderful Wino, but whatever it was, it was the crack that goes up in the middle of the “circle”, there was a 5.8 mantle 20’ out from my last piece. Did I forget to tell you that I hate face climbing?!?! Then Drew lead some 5.8ish roof thing that took him a little too long to do, and then we 3-4th classed it to the top. As we were scurrying down the descent (quickly due to an impending unloading of the large intestine and the beers waiting at the car) Drew found a nice fleece that someone dropped. We shouted up, but no one claimed it, so we added it to the booty count. Total booty for day one was a #12 nut from pitch 1 that I cleaned, and the fleece. What, do you think I climb for fun?!?! No, I climb for booty! The night was finished with alcohol and fishing (okay, so I drank and Drew fished) and 3 brook trout for each of us fried up by Drew “Emeril” Lagassi.
On Saturday, we got on an awesome route called Crescent Arch (4p 5.9+) on Daff Dome. Drew spent quite some time on the first 30’ then cruised to the hanging belay. I followed and lead pitch 2 which was hard 5.9 hands in a r.f. dihedral with glacial polish on it. I pulled onto a 10’x10’ flat ledge and belayed Drew on the 3rd pitch, beached whale style. Pitch 4 was a “crux 5.9+” move that I skipped by moving 2’ to the right and climbing huge crystals. Still “on” in my book!
Saturday night, we headed down to the RC.com campground to find it empty except for some chairs and a fire ring. After about 2 hours and 4 beers + some Jug O’ Wine we heard the rumbling of rrrAdam Andretti hauling ass down the Class 3 road. He and the aforementioned crew spilled out and we enjoyed a night of revelry around the fire. I enjoyed meeting everyone (see above for names) and had fun that night. I also introduced Karen (Adam’s wife) to her new favorite word. She thought I was a Coooo’ person for doing that.
Sunday brought a lazy morning and some slack lining. Then we headed back up the road to Lembert Dome. After splitting the 6 of us into 2 parties, I lead the first pitch (5.9) of Direct NW Face using only stoppers and a hex for pro but graciously carrying the full rack on lead so the other two could save their strength. Yeah, that’s why!! I actually could have done it without the comfort of cams on me, but the guy in the party before us was flailing, so I thought I should take enough even if I don’t place it. Adam lead pitch 2 and I followed, then spent 20 minutes on rappel trying every trick in the book to clean a wobbly #5 stopper while Wes belayed Adam on pitch 3. Although I have a reputation for my ability to clean “fixed” gear, I was not able to come through on this one. Ohh well.
Drew and I bailed back to SoCal Sunday evening. I really enjoyed meeting everyone there and finally sharing a rope with Adam. He and Karen are very gracious hosts who go out of their way to make sure everyone is having a good time. While that’s not too hard to do when you look at what we are doing (climbing rocks for goodness sakes) I always appreciate hanging out with those two and seeing the generosity they display to everyone. Thanks again guys. It was sure Cooo’ of you!!
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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jmlangford
Jul 25, 2002, 11:54 PM
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P.S.
I didn't do Dominator. I didn't have anything to brag about like the other guys so I just threw that in there.
Adam, there was no way in heck I was going to let YOU , of all people, rescue me off Lembert. I wouldn't have heard the end of it!
I HAD to get myself down-after all, I got myself up there! What route was I on anyway?
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karlbaba
Jul 27, 2002, 12:27 AM
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Sorry I missed ya'll. I dropped by the early evening of the 14th but that was too soon. That dang campground is so far from the road, I was discouraged from stopping in the next time I drove by on 120. I bet a saw some of you around the meadows, and just didn't know it.
Next time
Peace
karl
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i.karen
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Jul 27, 2002, 1:12 AM
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Cooo'
I had such a great time even though it was the wrong time for Crampons!!!
(inside joke)
No crazy people either!!!!!!
A lot of great stories were told and a lot of laughs shared!!!
If it wasn't for Trevor and RC.com this could never have happened. So thank you again!!!
I was happy to met new faces and see old friends!!!
Karen
[ This Message was edited by: i.karen on 2002-07-26 18:13 ]
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rrrADAM
Jul 27, 2002, 9:09 AM
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For those privledged to listen to my friend Josiah play guitar and sing at the campfire, send me your mailing and email addresses, and I'll send you a CD of his band.
They were just pressed, and he gave me a few for those he promised to give a CD to.
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arrockgirl
Jul 27, 2002, 2:16 PM
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Well, hey there, Y'ALL , this mer-LOT girl finally made it home, and will attempt a short review my totally awesome trip....
After 48 HOURS on Greyhound from Little Rock to Merced, and hitching a ride from the valley to the campground, I arrived Tuesday morning to an empty campground. No worries, though, I just called it an "acclimitazation day" and adjusted myself to the wonderful world of low humidity levels!
The gang arrived back in camp that evening with the "heaver" story and immediately I knew I was going to have a blast...
On Wednesday, Adam and Peter had faith in me on my first climb on granite, on Cry in Time Again....thanks guys, I couldn't have done it without you! Jody was nice enough to play photographer for us, although at one point, I was more worried about his descent than my climbing!
Later that day, we had to allow the weather to dictate our climbing, and Jody and I went to Circle A Wall on Mountaineeers Dome. I worked for A LONG TIME on a crack climb while Jody so patiently (we are talking over an hour, here, guys) belayed me. Thanks Jody! Then I got a driving tour of the east side of the park and dinner in Lee Vining.
On Thursday, I was privileged to climb with Tony (nailzz) and he did a great job leading up Munginilla over in the valley, even if we did get off route (I think that might have been at my direction, anyway, Tony!) Since we liked Adam and Josiah SO much, we decided to join them on their route, and I invented a new form of mixed climbing involving rock and trees!
(At this point, there was also a lot of discussion about Julie's choice of climbing apparrel that seems to enhance her climbing experience so much. In fact, she took the next 2 days as rest days because she wasn't wearing the item! )
BTW, I felt very at home with the way that everyone kept taking their shoes off...HAHA thanks guys!)
Friday was a rest day, but I got to watch Tony and Wes work their way up Stately Pleasures Dome....way to go, you two worked together so well!
Saturday turned out to be a rest day, but only in climbing terms. I spent the day hiking around the valley, and it was a good thing I had my "idiot sticks" (aka: trekking poles) with me! They came in really handy for keeping stupid tourists at bay on those crowded shuttle buses!
It sure was a pleasure to meet all of you: Adam and Karen, you were great "hosts" thanks for all the great food and music!
Tony, Jody, Peter, Dan, Kristen, Wes, John, Josiah, Joseph, Jennifer, Paul and Drew...what a crew! I only wish I had been able to stay in CA longer....but don't worry, I plan on taking every one of you up on your offers of hospitality in the future!
On Saturday evening, I caught a ride out east with Tony, and we had our own little adventure driving east on 120, which we both agreed was the absolute craziest little road either one of us had ever been on!
After Tony briefly considered taking a job as my chauffeur, we parted in SLC and I ran around southern UT where I stopped in Moab, met Brian at Pagan Mountaineering, and did a quick afternoon climb at Potash Road (thanks to Tony's recommendations)! From there it was on to Durango to visit some friends and a quick workout at Animas CIty Rocks.
After that it was back on greyhound with some of the most interesting people in America, and a long ride home back to this SAUNA known as Arkansas!
Thanks for the memories, and I can't wait to make it back out to CA!
Climb on,
Jules
P.S. Adam, please send music ASAP....am dying a slow painful death in this land of redneck country music....HAHAHA!
[ This Message was edited by: arrockgirl on 2002-07-27 07:28 ]
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pfiffer
Jul 27, 2002, 6:24 PM
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Hey, Tony, Kristin, Jules, Adam and Karen: this is Dan from the one night at the creek campground. thank you all for letting me join in on your group and your social graces for good times. I wondered how it went for Jody and Julie that day as they headed over to Daff and that sky opened up. It was a good thing that Kristin didn't mind her guidebook looking a little beat up because I definitely returned it to her in worse shape after all those consultations on Lembert Dome. Sorry, Kristin, that you didn't even get to climb. You were a trooper for not getting upset about that.
Day that I went down to the valley with that Peter guy was great since we did the Nutcracker. It's a classic climb, but I think the heat was keeping parties away, so we had time to figure out our paths. I had the supertopo.com print-out for Nutcracker, and I highly recommend them, since Don Reid's topos are crappy and, I think, led to a lot of those off-route adventures written about above. Of course, that's where stories and adventures come from, so sometimes McNamara's overly detailed paths aren't what people want either. In "mega-classics", he also covers Munginella and Commitment and a bunch of other 5.6-5.9 climbs. It's worth the $10 and massive amounts of ink to actually print out the 75 page document on your home printer.
Saw you all again at the most beautiful crag, the lower Yosemite falls. Adam's .10d crack looked like one of the coolest climbs around. From a distance, with the falls on the right and the dead vertical crack, it was definitely post card material. My friend, Jeff, led a 10d (don't know names) hand crack with a sweet roof move about 50 yards (belay from up a 3rd class ledge) left of that 5.8 hand crack you all had set up. Next time you're there, you should check it out. I consider it the hardest single climb I've attempted on top rope. Major hanging.
I also got a feel for more crack climbing by doing the great Reed's Pinnacle as I worked my way out of the park on Saturday, quite exhausted. I've just moved to Portland and will try and see you all at the Smith Rocks get together in August.
till then...
Dan
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maculated
Jul 27, 2002, 9:54 PM
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Aww, I have a warm, squidgy feeling in my tummy from reading all of this. It makes me want to give up my shaky career plans and become a dirtbag climber. : )
Sometimes I feel like a dork for being like, "Yeah, so I hooked up with a friend and went climbing," to my roommate followed by, "I met them on the Internet." Like, how dorky does that sound, but stuff like this? No way. Even though I only got to climb a wee bit (and not well . . .) the little notes on my car and cabin door from Adam and the fun little campfire spouting about my dealing with gapers is good stuff.
I'm stoked we got to bring Dan into the fold, even if I was a smartass to him at the visitor center. : )
Stoked to finally meet Paul (Addroids) even if he SUCKS because I saw him for five seconds! But at least he sucks about seeing ANY of his friends here.
Karen, your tentativeness about slabs may have rubbed off but I'm back now. Led some nice 8 stuff yesterday with confidence. Weeeeee.
And I also know the difference between radioactive and radiation. Good to know.
Ta ta . . .
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nailzz
Jul 27, 2002, 10:04 PM
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I wish I had shaky career plans to give up ...
I don't climb nearly hard enough (yet) to cut it in the dirtbag lifestyle.
Sigh, back to school life for me. At least that way I can shirk responsibility for a few more years and hopefully hone my dirtbagging skills.
-Tony
aka 'Pendulum'
aka 'Heaver'
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rrrADAM
Jul 27, 2002, 10:35 PM
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Just paid $80 to get 15 rolls of film developed. Have some great shots.
Will try to submit 4 a day for the next couple weeks, so check for them. That also includes some from "rrrADAM and fiend's North American Tour", and all the RC.com Events we hit along the way. I have good pics of about 25 users in total.
Sorry, I've been slacking.
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rrrADAM
Jul 28, 2002, 9:03 PM
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Here's the first batch of Yosemite & Tuolumne pics...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=6042
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=6045
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=6043
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=6044
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=6040
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=6041
Many more to come, including some taken while hanging on rappel for over an hour to get the best angle. So check back.
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nailzz
Jul 28, 2002, 9:37 PM
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Quote:
For those privledged to listen to my friend Josiah play guitar and sing at the campfire, send me your mailing and email addresses, and I'll send you a CD of his band.
Pale green eyes, and ...
.............
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rrrADAM
Jul 28, 2002, 10:39 PM
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BTW... As of today, Josiah now lives with me.
He's cute too.
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