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seekhigh
Aug 28, 2005, 1:07 PM
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Just wondered if there's any interest in a trip to Mexico peaks. Would involve flying into Mexico City, a taxi to the bus station, then a bus ride to Tiachichuca. Once there we would be staying at the Reyes family in their compound designed for Orizaba. They provide 4-wheel transporation to the hut on the mountain from where the climb starts.
TIME TO CLIMB: Seasons if from Nov. to March. Better snow and less crowded in Nov. thru mid Dec. Most guided groups seem to go in Feb. and March.
OPTIONS: Open to any suggestions.
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furrymurry
Sep 2, 2005, 8:07 AM
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Aren't most Mexico climbs just long slogs up tall volcanos?
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ontherocks
Sep 2, 2005, 8:25 AM
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In reply to: we would be staying at the Reyes family in their compound designed for Orizaba. They provide 4-wheel transporation to the hut on the mountain from where the climb starts.
Suggestion: don't drive up the hut in a push from the Reyes' Hacienda (even if he suggests that). You'll be better off by asking them to leave you on the way (around 12,000 feet) and spend a couple of days to acclimatize (1,000 feet a day, hike up, sleep low). Getting to 14,000 feet in a push, no good.
Another: the glacier has receded A LOT in last years, then a large part of it would be a walk up a pile of choss. Global warming? Bush would say no. And as far as I know there are no open crevasses on the glacier, then you can move fast (check this with the local guides).
(edited to correct quote tag)
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anykineclimb
Sep 2, 2005, 9:28 AM
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Orizaba is just one of those peaks people climb in their quest for high, non technical peaks.
I was actually planning on doing it some time ago, before I came to my senses...
but anyway, if you do plan to go, spend some time in the village and take your time heading up. Altitude sickness is no joke.
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pbjosh
Sep 2, 2005, 9:52 AM
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A peak needn't be hard to be worthy.
Orizaba is beautiful and is in a beautiful area in a fantastic country. Orizaba is also a great stepping stone to test yourself at 5000-5500m before commiting to a big trip to South America, if you want to take the intermediate step.
Acclimitization / technical issues aside, here are some things I'd recommend:
Check out Xalapa and/or Puebla if you're going to have any extra time, they're both awesome towns. I particularly love Puebla. Xalapa is in one of the Tequila producing regions to boot.
You might consider renting a car and driving yourself around, allowing for more freedom and a much nicer experience. We rented a beater old Sentra for 12 days for like $175 or something, and managed to climb Ixta, La Malinche, Orizaba, and spend 2 days in Xalapa, 2 days in Puebla, visit a bunch of other little spots here and there and generally have a relaxed trip all around.
Enjoy.
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mtnfr34k
Sep 2, 2005, 12:22 PM
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Chiming in with PB-
Another way to acclimitize is go climb Ixta (somewhere between 17000-18000') first over three days. My favorite route is the Ayaloca (sic?) Glacier, which has a small hut at the base. The refugio does require a small hike to reach (3 - 6 hours, depending on you), and the days spent hiking in/hiking out help with you acclimitizing. I don't have my notes or books with me, but I think the TH is at 10000 or 11000, and you climb an additional 2000 feet or so the the refugio. You need to make sure to stop by the Ixta/Popo administration office in the town below to get a permit - if Popo is too seismic they won't let you in, but that is something you can easily check from a climbing shop in Mexico City.
If Ixta is closed La Malinche (almost 15'000) is a resonable second choice. Stay in the cabins where the Mexican Olympic Marathon team tranes and climb the peak in a day.
Enjoy!
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graniteboy
Sep 6, 2005, 9:16 AM
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I've done Orizaba a couple of times, and skiied it once.
I would definitely agree with the above post which suggests doing Ixta or malinche beforehand as an acclimation run, then hauling ass over orizaba and having reyes (or that other, slightly cheaper, but equally competent guy) take you to the hut. Another option might be to spend a few days on shasta before hauling ass to the sacramento airport and zipping off to mexico city and then hauling ass to orizaba.
One Caution, about ixta, however: cars left at the trailhead are sometimes ransacked. Occasional thefts occur at the piedra grande hut (Orizaba) also.
And remember: start building up your gastrointestinal tract immunity by eating at those funky taco wagons down on the street corner right now. Americanos tienen estomagos muy debil
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atg200
Sep 8, 2005, 7:19 AM
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ixta and orizaba are a lot of fun. they are certainly far nicer and more enjoyable climbs than true huge slag piles like aconcagua.
i would definitely not suggest spending more than one day going to the refuge on orizaba, and agree with the suggestions to do ixta first to acclimate. going up the normal route on ixta looked horrible - lots of scree and dust, but it was ok for descent after doing the ayoloco glacier. i found a second short tool to be nice for the ayoloco - the further right you went the steeper it was, and the ice was great glacial ice.
bring bivy sacks and avoid the refuges if possible. they are very noisy and often crowded.
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brianinslc
Sep 8, 2005, 7:46 AM
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In reply to: ixta and orizaba are a lot of fun. they are certainly far nicer and more enjoyable climbs than true huge slag piles like aconcagua.
Nah, disagree. The Mexico volcanoes are their own gig, as is Aconcagua. Both worthy and enjoyable.
In reply to: i would definitely not suggest spending more than one day going to the refuge on orizaba...
There's plenty of acclimating to be done right from town. Moving up 2000 feet from town doesn't buy you much more than just planning on spending time in town. Might I suggest to also stay away from the ceviche...(although, being really stomach flu sick seems a heck of a way to acclimate, at least it was for me...).
In reply to: bring bivy sacks and avoid the refuges if possible. they are very noisy and often crowded.
Yep. I've seen bbq's inside the larger hut. If you can, go to the smaller hut with enough folks to fill it, then lock the door from the inside....(!).
Also, there seem to be much cheaper options than Reyes...but...the digs and scene there are nice, and the service to/from Orizaba base was super.
Brian in SLC
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rockprodigy
Sep 8, 2005, 7:14 PM
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Although the Mexican volcanoes are not technically challenging, a trip to go climb them can be great preparation for bigger and better stuff. If you're thinking in terms of Denali or the like, down the road, it is extremely helpful to experience the effects of altitude. In fact, pilots train this way in altitude chambers so that they will be able to recognize their syptoms if they experience a loss of cabin pressure...the same principles apply to climbing. Every person reacts differently to altitude, so it is very helpful to know how you react, so that you will be able to diagnose yourself while there is still time to do something about it.
In addition to altitude, it is helpful to practice planning and executing a trip like that. It can help you work out details like how to pack, and what you really do and don't need.
PS Mexico has really nice (and cheap) busses...they even play movies on them!
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atg200
Sep 9, 2005, 6:51 AM
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true that, though keep in mind that you may react to altitude differently at different times. altitude never bothered me in mexico or ecuador, so i tried to push my acclimatization schedule a bit too hard on aconcagua and ended up getting HAPE. its nice to see how you react, but don't let it lull you into a false sense of security.
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