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wzrdgandalf
Sep 12, 2005, 11:40 PM
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http://www.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/index.jsp
So i watched this film clip of Tony Lamiche climb THE FLY today and it is rated a 5.14d but it seems like it should be a bouldering problem. Unless a lot of the route is cut out of it, it seems like its only a few very difficult moves (which is typical of a bouldering problem). Does anyone know why this is considered a route instead of a problem? Thanks for any help.
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realdeal39
Sep 12, 2005, 11:50 PM
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It has bolts because I guess it has a really bad landing, otherwise it would have a bouldering rating instead of a route rating. It's only about 20 feet or so which I would consider a bouldering problem.
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bigevilgrape
Sep 12, 2005, 11:58 PM
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the landing SUCKS, so its a short short sport climb.
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wzrdgandalf
Sep 13, 2005, 12:05 AM
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seems like a logical explanation. thanks a lot.
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landgolier
Sep 13, 2005, 12:21 AM
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is that Jules in the pic?
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jakedatc
Sep 13, 2005, 12:24 AM
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yea... but
"Kehl worked the route over the course of several days, self-belaying on a top rope"
more like British headpoint style than true bouldering.
but either way.. if you can climb 14d and have enough friends to bring up the amount of pads jason had... go for it lol.. the approach is steep.. you may not want to tell your friends that :)
edit.. yes thats jules she got in the way haha
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bigevilgrape
Sep 13, 2005, 12:37 AM
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sure its steep... but its not *that* far. and you can hit up black jack on the way down. :)
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grimpiperx
Sep 13, 2005, 12:47 AM
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In reply to: yea... but "Kehl worked the route over the course of several days, self-belaying on a top rope" more like British headpoint style than true bouldering. but either way.. if you can climb 14d and have enough friends to bring up the amount of pads jason had... go for it lol.. the approach is steep.. you may not want to tell your friends that :) edit.. yes thats jules she got in the way haha
He never actually got the thing on TR though, so its in a tad better style....
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jakedatc
Sep 13, 2005, 1:09 AM
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ehh.. the top doesnt really seem so bad.. i bet he worked the middle the most and once he got that more dialed he said ok lets finish it unroped.. :shrug: who knows.. i definitely give him props for doing it.. but it definitely won't be the way people will send it in the future
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