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active vs. passive: what ratio is on your rack?
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stonefree


Sep 13, 2005, 8:31 PM
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5 hexes, 22 nuts, 12 cams 2.25:1


onbelay_osu


Sep 14, 2005, 8:53 AM
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11 pieces of passive and 12 cams so right around a 1:1 ratio....not to bad!


areuinclimber


Sep 14, 2005, 9:56 AM
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10 nuts, 27 cams (freeclimbin' rack)
20something nuts,7 micro nuts, 27 cams (wall/aid rack)

edit: add 3 cam hooks and 2 bat hooks


speedywon


Sep 14, 2005, 10:48 AM
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1:2
active:passive


scrapedape


Sep 14, 2005, 10:52 AM
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24:1 for passive.


keinangst


Sep 14, 2005, 10:56 AM
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In reply to:
I don't bother with passive gear most of the time, so the ratio is about infinity.

13 nuts, 7 hexes, 6 tricams

So the ratio is about "undefined" :D


Partner slacklinejoe


Sep 14, 2005, 11:07 AM
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(p)25:10(a)


dingus


Sep 14, 2005, 11:16 AM
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Some routes ya takes more nuts than cams, others ya donts. Anyone who climbs with the same rack regardless of route... well, ya just kaint reach some people.

My rack is highly variable, %cams% and %nuts% quantity, size and selection route and goal dependant.

DMT


locker


Sep 14, 2005, 12:27 PM
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I own approximatly six complete racks of most of the top companies (can you say "Addict"?) and as one person posted on this thread.........."Totally dependent on area and type of formations."...............exactly!!! Totally depends on what type of rock, and where one is climbing.......rack accordingly!!!..................


glowering


Sep 14, 2005, 1:04 PM
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Interesting question.

My standard rack: 10 nuts, 10 cams = 1:1 I would've thought I had more active.


renohandjams


Sep 15, 2005, 8:13 AM
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In reply to:
umm, it depends on the route! :roll:
Yeah, it could be mostly active, or the other way around. It all depends. I try not to bring everything when I go because it is way too much stuff.


dirtyleaf


Sep 15, 2005, 5:31 PM
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Passive:16 nuts, 2 tricams.1 hex
Active:19 cams
I usually carry the same amount of cams and nuts but on the longer routes I usually carry more cams.


rock_ninja


Sep 22, 2005, 12:19 PM
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I'm just a baby trad hussy, but my ratio is 7:2- I think I did the math right there. That's counting tricams as passive, which I assume we're doing? I almost always place them actively, though. Leads to a new and ineterestig bit for me- do you consider tricams as part of your active or passive gear?

Rack: 11 stoppers
2 tricams (want more!!)
8 hexes (no cowbells, though, sigh)
6 cams0 one of them is an old skool Wild Country rigid friend that I inheited, and I'm a little afraid of placing it.


azrockclimber


Sep 22, 2005, 1:11 PM
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I can't tell if you are talking about my entire rack of gear that hands in my basement or what I normally carry up a route...

I have 35+ cams and probably 21 nuts and 4 tri-cams. so 25 pieces of passive.

when I climb I almost always have more nuts than cams...about 18 nuts and usually about 12 cams pretty standard....abviously the cams can vary..I might have to carry 4 extra to protect wide crack...etc...whatever...


graniteboy


Sep 23, 2005, 9:36 AM
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My usual rack consists of:
2 hands,
8 fingers,
2 Thumbs
2 feet
10 toes
An occasional chicken wing, knee bar, or hip wedge in larger cracks.

I generally use all these items as active cams, but occasionally they're passive.


reg


Sep 23, 2005, 10:44 AM
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50/50 BUT DO I COUNT HEX'S TWICE?


domx


Oct 25, 2005, 12:07 PM
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16 nuts, 2 hex, 2 tricams, 5 cams and a zero 1 which i dont know in which cathegory to put it in LOL

So 20 to 5= 4 to 1 for passive
This is for Granite which is the only rock around here


lehrski


Oct 26, 2005, 7:19 PM
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15 nuts:6 cams. I would like more cams for long parallel cracks. Need a real job. I can't complain though. I only had 4 cams last week. I got two booty cams on a popular route that a lot of people bail on.


crimpstrength


Oct 26, 2005, 7:34 PM
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I am still building but right now, I have one set (10) nuts and 20 cams and three tricams. What I carry up each route changes, but that is all I have so far


5_8nate


Nov 10, 2005, 9:51 PM
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I use a set of stoppers, half a set of hexes (the 5 or 6 biggest ones) 2 tri cams (the 2 smallest ones) 4 power cams .5"-3" and 4 bd c4s .5"-2", I want to get the 3" also. So that makes it about 3:1 passive.

Nate


p0stscript


Nov 11, 2005, 12:31 AM
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I only own 3 cams at the mo, so ratio is about 1:8 for most of the routes I do. But since I still see myself as a beginner I share most of the gear with my partner at the time.

PS


Partner heiko


Nov 11, 2005, 2:12 AM
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2:1 for passive.


iamcolinslack


Dec 12, 2005, 11:03 AM
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14 cams, 20 nuts, 6 tricams, 3 hexes

1:2 passive

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