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yakiman


Sep 14, 2005, 10:56 PM
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racking question
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What type of gear slings do you climb with for single pitch trad routes?

Do you just use your harness gear loops? Single gear sling? With or without multiple loops? Bigwall double sling? Runner? Leather belt with a dinner plate sized silver Coppenhagen buckle? Pros and cons?

I was given a Metolius bigwall double sling (the kind with a little zipper pouch on the back) and it works fine, but it feels like overkill on single pitch routes.


grk10vq


Sep 14, 2005, 11:11 PM
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Your big wall sling, although sweet in its own respect, Is a bit overkill. I just rack on my harness.
On tougher climbs I'm familiar with or have beta for i'll have a sling around my chest in G.I. Joe fashion. My piece will be hanging from that--already to go.
Most people I climb with all tend to think gear under your armspits stink......No pun intended. Try both. See what you like better. Your metolius sling should have room for a camelback if your a thirst monger.
As for your little zipper thingy....stick your weed in that.


Partner tattooed_climber


Sep 14, 2005, 11:30 PM
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i personally clip very little gear to my harness...i always use a gear sling...easy to swing pitches and i find its easier to grab stuff and move it around durring a climb...easy to rack up (just put it on)..etc

mine is a metolius multi-loop sling with a 1/2 webbing with PVC tube i knotted on as an extra side....works awesome..


healyje


Sep 15, 2005, 12:09 AM
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I use a Metolius Big Wall Gear Sling with the single loops as I don't like the multi-loop kind for anything but pins. I use it for everything as I also really don't like gear on my harness at all.


Partner euroford


Sep 15, 2005, 5:37 AM
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gear on a sling, draws on the harness.


ping


Sep 15, 2005, 5:41 AM
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I rack on the harness. Since you won't be needing to exchange any gear with your partner on a single-pitch climb (as in a multipitch climb where you are swinging leads), the gear sling is optional. Some folks like the sling in either situation. If you're unsure which racking style works best, you can experiment on short, easy single pitches with different kinds of gear-placing situations to see what you like. In my case, it was pretty apparent from the outset what would be most comfortable. However, once you decide on something, stick with it: you wouldn't want to be pumping out looking for that green Alien that's usually on your harness's left/front gear loop.


bill413


Sep 15, 2005, 6:13 AM
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However, once you decide on something, stick with it: you wouldn't want to be pumping out looking for that green Alien that's usually on your harness's left/front gear loop.
I think this is a good point. If it's purely a bolt clip, then I'll just carry the draws on my harness. But, f I'm doing a gear route, I generally bring my standard rack, no matter how many pitches. It's bad enough looking through it for the right piece when I know where everything is....I don't want to be thinking about "now, is this the one pitch, Tuesday only configuration...or is this the one pitch, 3rd of the month arrangement?" when I'm going for that green alien. Wait! I don't have a green alien!

All that said...I use a conventional (trad) padded sling to rack with. Gear on my harness got too crowded.


vegastradguy


Sep 15, 2005, 6:46 AM
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gear on the harness...but i have 7 gear loops. on a harness with fewer loops, i'd probably use a runner or gear sling for a long single pitch that required a bunch of gear.


Partner devkrev


Sep 15, 2005, 6:52 AM
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depends, single pitch stuff and multipitch where I will be doing all the leading, i rack on my harness, but when I'm swinging leads with someone, I usually will rack on a sling
later
dev


ecjohnson


Sep 15, 2005, 6:58 AM
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Always on a sling. it's easy to rack up, just put it on, my gear is always organized the exact same way, and it's easy to de-rack just take it off. You can move it for chimneys or dihedrals. I just use the simple BD padded sling.

Ethan


markc


Sep 15, 2005, 7:04 AM
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gear on a sling, draws on the harness.

I'm the opposite. I prefer racking gear on my harness (which has 6 gear loops) and carrying ~15 slings on my gear sling. I dislike the weight of the rack swinging around loose. Like others, I rack pretty much the same way for single or mulitpitch routes. I may carry less gear, but where I rack it is unchanged.

I've climbed with gear on the sling and slings on the harness, I just feel less comfortable. If my partner prefers it, I'll either adapt or block lead rather than swing pitches. There are definitely situations where it's preferable to carry pro on a sling, so it's good to remain flexible.


Partner angry


Sep 15, 2005, 7:11 AM
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I use a plain old sling. THe nice padded slings don't feel right to me, besides, if you need to switch sides in a chimney or OW, it's easier with a plain sling.


musicman


Sep 15, 2005, 7:17 AM
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...easy to swing pitches

exactly, i haven't done too much multi pitch, but switching everything off your harness onto the leaders takes a lot more time than you would think. For single pitch, just gear loops, with the slings over my shoulder.


mtnbkrxtrordnair


Sep 15, 2005, 7:25 AM
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Everything on the harness feels too heavy, so I put (trad) draws on a sling and gear on the harness. For the sling I use an old piece of rope with an overhand knot. The fatter the rope, the more comfortable it is. And if I run out of slings, I can use that too.


onbelay_osu


Sep 15, 2005, 7:56 AM
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i have always felt that the sling tends to get in the way, especially on diheadrals. and then i have a cluster fuck of gear and although i organized it before i took off, i get up there and all of a sudden the sling is on the wrong side, that #5 flex isn't where i put it. so even for multi-pitch though it takes longer, i rack up on my harness. although i am always open for sugestions on how to work better with the sling. it looks a lot easier and more efficient to swing leads on.


devonick


Sep 15, 2005, 5:17 PM
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i usually just rack on my harness but i sometimes also carry spare gear on a sling under my arm for setting the anchor at the top, all routes are walk off where i climb so this works for me


Partner mr8615


Sep 15, 2005, 6:12 PM
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Gear on the front harness loops, trad draws on the back, for single pitch and block leading. I only have 4 gear loops, but it works well for me.

Mark


toejam


Sep 16, 2005, 8:54 AM
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In my mind single-pitch is practice for multipitch, so I do it the same way. Pro on the sling, draws on the harness. Cams > 3" also on the back of the harness.


reg


Sep 16, 2005, 9:09 AM
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from almost the beggining i have put gear on the harness and all 2' mtn draws are over a shoulder with biners - two 4 footers on the back of the harness with the emerg. rap kit, purssic kit and small first aid.
i would like to hear opions on using gear slings plz.


david.yount
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Sep 17, 2005, 12:01 AM
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Gear on shoulder sling, runners on harness.

Single length and double length runners, each with a pair of biners, "alpine draw" style racked on my front pair of harness loops.

Many years ago I upgraded to the Metolius Multi-Loop Double D gear sling. Very nice to keep my pieces organized; I can find gear quickly without looking, those 5 gear loops on that sling are handy. I carry larger-than-average rack and I appreciate the extra gear loop on the opposite side of the 4 primary gear loops, helps to balance the load.

My runners and my gear wouldn't fit reasonably on my harness, a shoulder sling of some variety is needed.

I also appreciate the weight on the shoulders rather than the waist. Some moves with the hips would be harder, for me, if all the weight was on my harness.

Swapping leads when using a shoulder sling has only 1 item to pass. Without shoulder sling many items will need to be passed.

Chimneys and other various body constrictions the rock imposes are easier to deal with when the gear can be moved out of the way, with a shoulder sling.

The sling (if full strength, and it really should be full strength) can be used as a runner, if textiles are really really low.

When I get to my belay I can easily remove the rack, a nice rest for the body.

When my second arrives at my belay, he can re-rack gear directly to the shoulder sling (hanging from the anchor), he doesn't have to hand me gear.

Some routes have had way runnout finishes, with bolts for anchors. I easily remove the shoulder sling with all the gear and clip to my last piece. Then I enjoy the unweighted ninja feel as I collect my nerves and dance up the final moves.

david yount.


tradrenn


Sep 18, 2005, 4:43 PM
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In reply to:
Gear on the front harness loops, trad draws on the back, for single pitch and block leading. I only have 4 gear loops, but it works well for me.

Mark

I do the same with my Petzl Corax harness.
It only sucks when you doing some offwidth and the gear is on the wrong side of your harness, then sling over the shoulder would be very nice thing to have.

Hope this helps.


crimpstrength


Sep 18, 2005, 5:32 PM
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I primarily rack on my harness. If the pitch requires more gear than I can fit, I throw a sling over my shoulder.

Front right - stoppers and tricams
Front left - small to medium cams
Back right - large cams
back left - draws, pas,lockers

it changes a little if i take up specific pieces but if I am going on a new route that I do not know very well, that's the formula for me. All biners facing toward me.


mrtristan


Sep 18, 2005, 7:15 PM
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I rack on my harness, whether it's single or multipitch. I just hate gear slings. I have four loops on my harness:

Front right loop: nuts, small cams
Back right loop: larger cams
Front left loop: quickdraws and small cams if they dont all fit on the right side.
Back left loop: belay device, rope hook, free biners, etc

24" slings go over the shoulder with a biner or two on each

-Tristan


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