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whiskeybullets
Sep 22, 2005, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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I'll be in Las Vegas Oct 7-11 to do some sport climbing and had heard that the area hosted a variety of multi-pitch sport climbs. I'll be climbing in a party of three all of whom can solidly lead 10+ and below and could likely follow 11+ and below. Our rope gun can usually on site 11- in most areas. We'd like to find some interesting multi-pitch sport routes that are challenging but in the 10+ or below range, have good views, are suitable for a party of three, and would be appropriate for two climbers new to multi-pitch routes. Hanging belays are okay, but i'd like to avoid them if possible. Long, technical repels are also unwanted. I thought some of you Las Vegas locals would be willing to offer up some local beta.
Thanks in advance.
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dub365
Sep 22, 2005, 5:05 PM
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prince of darkness
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atrocket
Sep 22, 2005, 9:29 PM
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Prince of Darkness is a kick-ass sustained 10+ sport route in Black Velvet Canyon, 5 long pitches (I think.. its been awhile) and almost every belay is hanging, I don't remember what the views were like.
There's a great 9+ Trad (17-18 pitches, I think) nearby, it's called Epinephrine and its one of the best 9's in RR (bring BIG gear).
good luck.
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drrock
Sep 22, 2005, 9:38 PM
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Registered: Oct 18, 2003
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Prince of Darkness is fun. Don't know if it qualifies as interesting. Crimp and high step, repeat. You might also want a couple cams and nuts. First pitch (5.7) is 75 feet without bolts. Also there are a couple short boltless cracks that you could run out on pitch 3 and 5. But you might want to bring a little gear. Check it out in Black Velvet Canyon here on this site.
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drrock
Sep 22, 2005, 9:39 PM
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Oh yeah, it is 6 pitches, all hanging belays, and an easy rappel.
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vegastradguy
Sep 22, 2005, 9:44 PM
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In reply to: Prince of Darkness is a kick-ass sustained 10+ sport route in Black Velvet Canyon, 5 long pitches (I think.. its been awhile) and almost every belay is hanging, I don't remember what the views were like.
although its sporty in nature, you do have to solo the first 50' of 5.6 terrain to get to the route itself. there is a bolted belay at the base of the harder pitches.
there really arent many multipitch sport routes here- there's Dogma, which is hard .11...and i actually think it requires gear in places.
Unimpeachable Groping near Ginger Cracks in Juniper Canyon- goes .10+, but is runout in spots if you dont have gear with you.
That's really about it. This area really does not have many multipitch sport lines. It does have many tightly bolted trad climbs, but theres a big difference between the two.
In reply to: There's a great 9+ Trad (17-18 pitches, I think) nearby, it's called Epinephrine and its one of the best 9's in RR (bring BIG gear).
Um, not quite. Epinephrine is 5.9 and ends up being between 10-12 pitches depending on how you link them. There was originally 18 pitches, but they're all super short and easily linked. Interestingly, despite it being known for its 5.9 chimneys, it does not require any gear larger than 3", nor does it require more than one piece of any given size for the leader who is confident at the grade. It is, however, widely regarded as one of the finest 5.9's in Red Rock, and is considered a must do for any trad climber who wants to climb here.
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atrocket
Sep 22, 2005, 10:04 PM
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Registered: Sep 22, 2005
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Thanx for the clarification (to vegastradguy), as I said, its been a while since I've climbed (just getting back into it)- I remember Epi as a tough 5.9 and have been told its one of the better 9's in RR.
Crimson Chrysalis is a great route (5.8?), but watch out for the rope getting snagged, I had to wait 2 hours for two guys to free their rope (they ended up cutting it)- it made for a looong day.
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boltdude
Sep 22, 2005, 11:45 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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In reply to: I'll be in Las Vegas Oct 7-11 to do some sport climbing and had heard that the area hosted a variety of multi-pitch sport climbs.
On the other hand, there are many top-quality multipitch routes with sport-bolted pitches on them, some pitches requiring nothing but draws, and those often include the crux pitches.
And Mt. Charleston has multi-pitch sport starting at 5.10d, although it will likely be too cold for most people in early October.
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