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mistymountainhop
Sep 28, 2005, 5:44 PM
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So it is common knowledge that in 93 Lynn Hill made the first free ascent of the NOSE on EL Cap. The Nose, being arguably the most sought after and famous climb in the world, you would think that it would have been freed on lead by now considering the relatively "easy" grade of 13b compared to many of the 5.14+ climbers who are around and pushing limits. Scott Burke freed the cruxes on toprope, but WHY hasnt it been freed on lead yet? I know last fall Iker Pou who has climbed 14d put up serious attempts to repeat the feat, but was defeated on the Great Roof (crux). Yuji Hiriama has even thought that the Great Roof might go at 14b! Tommy Caldwell has freed six El Cap routes, has he seriously attempted the Nose? So what I am wondering is how hard have people endeavored to repeat the Nose, and being that some of the world's best climbers have failed, is it likely it will get repeated anytime soon? What makes the Great Roof climbable to Lynn Hill? COuld it be that the roof crack is just too small for "manly" climber fingers?
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vegastradguy
Sep 28, 2005, 5:49 PM
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Well, Burke led everything but the Great Roof, supposedly because the pitch was wet.
I've heard that Caldwell gave it a go this season, but the roof was again blocking the ascent, but that may just be speculation.
My guess is that its a combination of her small hands as well as her body size that allowed an easier path under the roof (easier still being .13ish...).
I'm sure it will eventually get freed...but by whom is anyone's guess at this point. Personally, I hope its another woman!
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dingus
Sep 28, 2005, 5:49 PM
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In reply to: So it is common knowledge that in 93 Lynn Hill made the first free ascent of the NOSE on EL Cap. The Nose, being arguably the most sought after and famous climb in the world, you would think that it would have been freed by now
I don't mean to quibble (oh Hell, yes I do!), but didn't your first sentence answer the question you pose in your second?
Maybe its just me, but when Lynn Hill sent the Nose without recourse to direct aid, I considered the Nose to have been freed, by then as well as now, 12 years later.
Cheers
DMT
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dingus
Sep 28, 2005, 5:57 PM
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I'm sorry, I was being a dick.
Here, you may find this article of some interest...
http://www.rayjardine.com/...1981-iwa/iwato.shtml
Gives it all historical perspective. Funny to see Ray hanging from the chippedd holds that gave rise to the possibility of freeing it to begin with.
Some of the oddest associations in this sport... the inventor of Friends chipped they very holds Lynn Hill used for her historic free ascent.
After 24 years I understand RFay is no more repentant now than he was then.
Dances to the tune of a different fiddler, that one.
DMT
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plund
Sep 28, 2005, 6:07 PM
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I could be wrong, but didn't the fab Ms Hill say in her book that the "Changing Corners" pitch was more difficult than the "Great Roof"?
Some of the photos looked insane - full-body counter-pressury contortionist smeary stuff in a SMOOTH dihedral way the hell up there....
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reprieve
Sep 28, 2005, 6:17 PM
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In reply to: I could be wrong, but didn't the fab Ms Hill say in her book that the "Changing Corners" pitch was more difficult than the "Great Roof"? Some of the photos looked insane - full-body counter-pressury contortionist smeary stuff in a SMOOTH dihedral way the hell up there....
yeah, I remember reading that as well. I also thought that Hill ended up taking a different line than the one Jardine envisioned, and ended up avoiding the chipped holds.
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dingus
Sep 28, 2005, 6:28 PM
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Nope. Chipped.
DMT
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mistymountainhop
Sep 28, 2005, 10:27 PM
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It seems like the Great Roof gets a little more attention than changing corners. Ive seen some pictures of both and changing corners looks insanely hard, but whats kept anyone (even with great practice) from repeating them on lead?
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superbum
Sep 28, 2005, 10:59 PM
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I have a sneaking suspicion that deep down a lot of manly hardmen are a wee bit intimidated by the very real possibility of failing at something done ONLY by a woman. The theory is that if you don;t try you can;t fail.
Just one way to look at the pizza...
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iltripp
Sep 28, 2005, 11:41 PM
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Marcus,
They're just all waiting for you to have a go at it...
How's the climbing been these days? Any chance you'll be back in the valley next summer?
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nrvna963
Sep 29, 2005, 12:51 AM
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Ive tried, but failed.. and grading it 13b is BS, at least during the summer.
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angry
Sep 29, 2005, 1:20 AM
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This is just like when I nearly slept with my sister
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healyje
Sep 29, 2005, 1:35 AM
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I believe Brooke Sandahl was working on it with various partners (Dave Schultz, Adam Grosowsky, and others) for quite a while before hooking up with Lynn.
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fracture
Sep 29, 2005, 2:07 AM
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Scott Burke did the second free ascent. He also said he thought Changing Corners (which he did lead) was more like 14b for his body-type.
I think I read somewhere a rumor that Caldwell has freed Changing Corners and the Great Roof on toprope. Perhaps he's waiting 'till he can lead the whole thing to spray to the mags? (Or perhaps it was bogus).
And yeah: Lynn used the chipped holds.
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musicman
Sep 29, 2005, 2:13 AM
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so, i really dont' know much about the 'chipped holds' but where were they? what pitch?
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vegastradguy
Sep 29, 2005, 2:39 AM
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In reply to: Scott Burke did the second free ascent. He also said he thought Changing Corners (which he did lead) was more like 14b for his body-type.
While this is technically true- Burke only freed the Great Roof on top rope because it was wet (well, that was the reason given, anyway). So, like most things of this nature, his ascent is somewhat tainted in the eyes of the greater climbing world and the route is still awaiting a free ascent by someone other than Hill.
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mistymountainhop
Sep 29, 2005, 2:42 AM
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what has Tommy Caldwell been up to recently anyways? I havent heard much about him since......... Dihedral Wall? Maybe he might grab the second ascent sometime soon with little or no warning.
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curt
Sep 29, 2005, 2:46 AM
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In reply to: So it is common knowledge that in 93 Lynn Hill made the first free ascent of the NOSE on EL Cap...
Invalid
dab
Apparantly, Lynn failed to do the required sit-start to the Nose, thereby invalidating the ascent. Hopefully, some climber will soon come along who can send the climb in better style. Of course, he will then also be able to rename and re-rate the route. :lol:
Curt
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fracture
Sep 29, 2005, 2:57 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Scott Burke did the second free ascent. He also said he thought Changing Corners (which he did lead) was more like 14b for his body-type. While this is technically true- Burke only freed the Great Roof on top rope ...
TR is still a free ascent.
Yet people act like the Great Roof is unrepeated: it's not.
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musicman
Sep 29, 2005, 3:02 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Scott Burke did the second free ascent. He also said he thought Changing Corners (which he did lead) was more like 14b for his body-type. While this is technically true- Burke only freed the Great Roof on top rope ... TR is still a free ascent. Yet people act like the Great Roof is unrepeated: it's not.
but where's the style in that? :lol:
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superbum
Sep 29, 2005, 3:07 AM
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TR w/ no falls is free, but for a free ascent to be valid, pitches must be freed on lead...right? Gosh, what a headache.
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steve_in_scotland
Sep 29, 2005, 3:09 AM
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Hey,
I did the first pitch of The Nose completely free in June 2004 but due to a lack of power-bars had to rap at that point. Maybe next time huh!
Cheers
Steve
ps top-roping is for girls.
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the_dude
Sep 29, 2005, 3:40 AM
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In reply to: ps top-roping is for girls. |
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rockprodigy
Sep 29, 2005, 3:49 AM
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I always wondered this: Burke says he spent something like 236 days working on the nose, then when he went for the send, it rained so he had to TR one of the key crux pitches...if he already spent 236 days, why not spend 3 more and do the route right?
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vegastradguy
Sep 29, 2005, 4:19 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Scott Burke did the second free ascent. He also said he thought Changing Corners (which he did lead) was more like 14b for his body-type. While this is technically true- Burke only freed the Great Roof on top rope ... TR is still a free ascent. Yet people act like the Great Roof is unrepeated: it's not.
no argument here....but it is what it is, and people are going to scrutinize it, especially given the nature of the route.
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