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tenn_climber26
Jul 31, 2002, 7:54 PM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
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Just how safe is it to use non-locking caribiners on your quickdraws? Should you trust somebody else's bolt job? just starting any help will be appriciated.
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transse
Jul 31, 2002, 8:11 PM
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I am not really sure if I can answer your question as asked, but we will see. Imagine if you will leading a sport route and at every bolt having to dink with the locking sleeve so you could clip the rope. Anything is possible, but backclipping or having the biner trapped against something leaving the gate open are some of the only ways I have heard of a rope coming unclipped from a non- locker. Not to say that it doesn't ever happen, just not to me. About bolts... I would never say believe any bolt you did not place is bomber. Climb with someone more experienced who may have a clue if the bolts are good. When you get used to it, it is not really that hard to catch a bad 1/4", since basically they all are, but as for the quality of the placement it is hard to say. As with some things there is an inherent amount of trust. Be careful and use your own judgement. I have seen people use locking biners on quickdraws on extremely important placements, but never on all of them... Hope this helps a bit.
Jake
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tenn_climber26
Jul 31, 2002, 9:20 PM
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Hey Jake thanks for the response , but what do you mean by backclipping?
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rocknpowda
Jul 31, 2002, 10:54 PM
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Backclipping refers to a certain way that you clip the rope into the quickdraw that makes it POSSIBLE for the rope to unclip itself if you were to fall. I stress that it is possible, not likely, but possible. I could try and explain it but I feel alot better telling you to ask an experienced climber at the crag to SHOW you how you to clip properly so it won't ever unclip accidentally.
This site is cool and has alot of good info, but when it comes down to learning safety issues, have a safe, experienced climber SHOW you what's up.
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mobius
Jul 31, 2002, 11:20 PM
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Tenn, please do us and yourself a favor: Don't go out climbing unless you are with an experienced person or have taken classes! Many subtle things, even with sport climbing, can make your great day at the crag a life-threatening experience. Climb safe man.
Matthew~
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rock_climbin_06
Jul 31, 2002, 11:37 PM
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Just to help you out a little more...You clip your quickdraw in the bolt and say you are going to climb to the right. Whatever way you are climbing you need to make sure your bottom biner's gate is facing the opposite way. That way if you fall then you will be ok. If it is facing the same way then like RocknPowda says it is possible for you to "unclip" yourself and fall even further. I hope that helps you out some.
-Adam
He's like my dog...Wave boy wave!
Good boy!
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tenn_climber26
Aug 1, 2002, 1:37 AM
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hey thanks for all the help guys i know i sound like i dont know anything cause im just getting into the sportclimbing scene. so anyway thanks for the help and i think i am going to set up a TR to get used to the whole clipping thing first. Thanks
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snapier
Aug 1, 2002, 2:23 AM
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For some good videos on how to clip (and also show what backclipping is and how your rope can slip out when backclipping) go to:
www.climbingmotion.com
[The site appears to be down right now...try it later]
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missedyno
Aug 1, 2002, 12:13 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=13495&forum=40&10
this topic has already been started elsewhere. please visit thread to continue discussion.
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Draws; non-locking caribiners?
