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elcartero
Oct 1, 2005, 9:26 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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i've done the north face of castleton, fine jade, a few other easy to moderate towers, and go to the creek often. i'm headed to do honeymoon chimney tomorrow. all this is childs play if you wanna run with the big dogs in the tall grass. which i don't, currently. my questions: a) what is another good climb to ramp up to the 'big dog' climb, primrose dihedrals? b) just how tough is it- mentally, and physically? how scary? how physically demanding?
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takeme
Oct 1, 2005, 9:40 AM
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Registered: May 6, 2003
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If you just want to get up the thing and enjoy some great 5.10 crack climbing in the process, then don't wait another minute--go do it RIGHT NOW. Use the 5.8 alternate start, and do the A0 bolt ladder up the ear. 5.10 w/easy AO, probably no harder than some of the routes you've already done. Nothing particularly scary about the route. Might be a more tiring day than, say, Fine Jade, but nothing to worry about.
If on the other hand you want to free it, I can't really help you. I've heard the 'boulder problem' start is pretty hard. Are you good at a variety of types of 5.11+ climbing?
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elcartero
Oct 1, 2005, 9:51 AM
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i'll be going for the real deal, so that's why i wanna get good and prepared. so i'll be freeing everything. definitely wanna do the 'business' start, since i know that's the first thing everyone will ask me when i do it. i haven't onsighted 11+ at the creek.....yet. sounds like i'll be in good company if i struggle with that first pitch.
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takeme
Oct 1, 2005, 10:01 AM
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For stepping stones, you might try Lightning Bolt Cracks, which I found considerably harder than Fine Jade, and you could further up the ante by doing the left-hand 11/11+ start and the right-hand, 5.11 variation on P2. Monster Tower N.Face is also a considerable sandbag at 11a, so much so that we decided to bail rather than endure extended hangdogging. Monster is also similar in length to Moses.
Have you climbed in the Bridger Jacks? Go there and try to do a bunch of towers in day, you'll get a wide variety of challenging types of climbing up to 11c or so.
By the way, I think the cruxes on Moses are quite well protected (now that the Ear bolts have been replaced) to address another one of your questions. You might PM Josh Janes (jsj42), a friend of mine who just made a pretty respectable free attempt on Moses.
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darkstar
Oct 1, 2005, 11:04 AM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
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well i climbed the thing and did the first pitch all free but if i ever do it again ill skip the first pitch ... personally i though it was just a tiny bad start to incredible route ... you can traverse in rt. above it its kinda like adding a sit start to a good sport route ... if you do the first pitch bring a big cam for the top of the obvious flare ...
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elcartero
Oct 2, 2005, 8:21 AM
Post #6 of 16
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ahh-good specific beta. thanks. i may just skip that first bit - seems like i've heard that from someone else also. sounds like the ear is really the memorable pitch. would you concur with the other post(s), that it's pretty safe now? i think i just need to do it- maybe after honeymoon chimney (partner for today bailed dammit!!)
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darkstar
Oct 2, 2005, 9:40 AM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
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yes its very safe ... especially with all the new bomber gear ... but as any climb its only as safe as you make it .... its a wondeful line have fun ...i think youll pull it off no problems .....
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guanoboy
Oct 2, 2005, 10:57 AM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2004
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I had to hang to get through the first pitch, but i would recommend it - fun climbing. I think a 3.5 or 4 camalot was key for protecting the move. The ear pitch is fantastic and i would say comparable in difficulty to the finger crack on fine jade and easier than the start on lightening bolt cracks (or at least as comprable as a finger crack could be to a wide layback).
great climbing have fun.
if you really want to get burly, give 'ascended yoga master' a try. I'd love to read the trip report.
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darkstar
Oct 2, 2005, 12:35 PM
Post #9 of 16
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i deffinatly second that last post ....
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jsj42
Oct 13, 2005, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
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I had it in my mind to onsight Primrose for a long time. After climbing a season in the Gunks (and getting quite strong at bouldery moves), and then a strong showing the week before on Infrared (12a) and Dolofright (11d) at Big Bend, I felt very confident going into the weekend.
Anyway, I fell MANY times trying to do the first pitch. From the ground it looks totally reasonable too. Oh well.
If you can't do it, do what I did and remind yourself that Steve Hong couldn't send it on the FA either. I highly recommend this start over the traverse - it's the original line, direct, and the climbing is really good despite the difficulties.
The Ear on the other hand went much better - although I think it's strange to even try to compare it to the crux of Fine Jade - totally different climbing (and in my opinion the Ear is MUCH harder). Bring just draws and MAYBE a 0.75 Camalot for this pitch. It is very safe.
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simonedwardcox
Feb 13, 2011, 3:30 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Feb 13, 2011
Posts: 2
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What is the latest on Primrose Dihedrals? I am coming over at Easter and would like to give it a shot. i hear that the road in has got washed out, is there still a reasonable approach?
Are the bolts reasonable in the Ear pitch?
Cheers,
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lucander
Feb 13, 2011, 4:40 PM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
Posts: 274
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Just get on it, Primrose was my first tower climb. Climbed it RC.com's own DOWWW two or three years ago. Found it VERY hard, but not in the mid-hard .11 range that guidebooks are putting it in these days. Lead the "even" pitches and you get most of the fun.
It's odd how frequenters to climbing areas build a mystique around climbs that really aren't so ferocious. I do this here at the Gunks. Folks come here climb Yellow Wall (.11c) all the time, I just walk by and don't even bother looking at it. It's possible that a similar psychological tendency is happening in your case.
D. Lucander
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simonedwardcox
Feb 28, 2011, 5:44 AM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2011
Posts: 2
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Marc,
Some really useful info. The abseiling sounds the way to go - though with flight baggage restrictions (+ the need for lots of cams) we will be struggling with the 300 foot ab/ jugging rope - is there any chance of buddying up with other people in Moab who may have such a rope/ or fancy doing the route together?
Cheers,
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marc801
Jun 14, 2011, 9:32 AM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2400
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UPDATE:
1. The road actually was opened by Easter - March 28 actually. Spectacular work by the contractor, who also was able to do the reconstruction for only $900K. The original estimate was $2M.
2. Due to a massive snow year and resultant flooding at Upheaval Wash, the White Rim road is once again closed from the southern bottom of Hardscrabble Hill to the park boundary. As stated on the park site:
In reply to: White Rim Road Closed on West Side The west side of the White Rim Road is currently impassable due to flooding in Upheaval Wash. The road has been closed to motor vehicles from the southern base of Hardscrabble Hill to the park boundary, making a complete White Rim loop impossible. The Hardscrabble, Labyrinth and Taylor campsites are not accessible. This closure applies to all traffic - including motorized vehicles, bicycles and pedestrians.
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