Sensible idea or totally counter to the nature of adventure climbing?

On Sunday, I climbed the East Ridge of Wolf’s Head with another RC.Commie. It was my second climb of this route, which I enjoy immensely for the position and exposure as well as the awesome cracks. We had a great climb in wintry conditions, didn’t see anyone else, the crux cracks were thrillingly packed with snow, etc. After the climb we packed camp and hiked back to the car in the dark in a snow and rain storm - the essence of alpinism.

The descent requires several rappels - I believe we did 5 single rope rappels and one double rope rappel. All of the stations were the usual tangle of mil spec webbing pinched in between rock features, sunbaked and of varying vintage. The first rappel is a short diagonal, and the position of the top anchor lends itself to a stuck rope when you go to pull your cord. Upon closer inspection, we noticed that the rappel slings at the final station weren’t actually attached to anything - a nasty surprise for anyone who puts blind faith in rap anchors.

This is a wilderness climb in a wilderness area, and I know the rules that govern fixed hardware in such areas. However, since it is a 50 classic climbs sort of route, and rightly popular, it occured to us that equipping the descent route with bolted anchors might make sense. Certainly easier on the eyes than rats nests of slings ever 150 feet, and much more secure. There are poot slings draped all over the south face of the ridge, testimony to various epics that have happened here.

I understand that adventure climbs quit being adventure when you manage all the risk out of them. I also understand that part of the “fun” is manky anchors and stuck ropes. But as someone who prefers to climb in a wilderness setting and also admires common sense, it seems okay with me to equip rappel stations on this particular route. Why are festoons of nylon okay but 2 camouflaged bolts are not?

I am not advocating we go a-bolting on wilderness classics. I don‘t care for fast-food alpinism and I understand bolting anywhere on a wilderness climb puts us on a slippery slope. Maybe people could care less. Thoughts?

But I/we will be happy to chop any unnecessary bolts that you place.

I am not advocating we go a-bolting on wilderness classics. I don‘t care for fast-food alpinism and I understand bolting anywhere on a wilderness climb puts us on a slippery slope. Maybe people could care less. Thoughts?

You might get a clue after a couple of thousand ascents that they are not neccessary....

There arew lot's of reasons to minimize the use of fixed anchor's in the wilderness.

No, I am not going to explain the reasons. But I/we will be happy to chop any unnecessary bolts that you place.

I guess climbers on the internet are special.

I've done Wolf's Head and I personally would not be in favor of adding bolted anchors. Another thing to consider is that there are so many ways to get lost on that descent that wads of slings will continue to appear everywhere--perhaps even more so given how difficult it can be to spot camoflauged bolts.

The descent requires several rappels - I believe we did 5 single rope rappels and one double rope rappel.

All of the stations were the usual tangle of mil spec webbing pinched in between rock features, sunbaked and of varying vintage. The first rappel is a short diagonal, and the position of the top anchor lends itself to a stuck rope when you go to pull your cord.

Upon closer inspection, we noticed that the rappel slings at the final station weren’t actually attached to anything - a nasty surprise for anyone who puts blind faith in rap anchors.

This is a wilderness climb in a wilderness area, and I know the rules that govern fixed hardware in such areas. However, since it is a 50 classic climbs sort of route, and rightly popular, it occured to us that equipping the descent route with bolted anchors might make sense.

There are poot slings draped all over the south face of the ridge, testimony to various epics that have happened here.

I understand that adventure climbs quit being adventure when you manage all the risk out of them. I also understand that part of the “fun” is manky anchors and stuck ropes.

I am not advocating we go a-bolting on wilderness classics.

I don‘t care for fast-food alpinism and I understand bolting anywhere on a wilderness climb puts us on a slippery slope.

Another slippery slope is the dogma that bolts are the root of all evil. Climber impact is measured more in visual impact than a tiny hole in the rock.
Do you think hikers in Yosemite spot the bolt anchors of a climb or the white "trails" of lichen-less rock on each side of a popular crack? What about the rainbow of nasty webbing wrapped around a tree?
Think impact, not dogma.

I'm just curious as to what makes piles of webbing okay but carefully placed bolts verboten.

Another slippery slope is the dogma that bolts are the root of all evil. Climber impact is measured more in visual impact than a tiny hole in the rock.
Do you think hikers in Yosemite spot the bolt anchors of a climb or the white "trails" of lichen-less rock on each side of a popular crack? What about the rainbow of nasty webbing wrapped around a tree?
Think impact, not dogma.

There's nothing slippery slope about it - bolts are evil. Judicious use of bolts is one thing - unfortunately humans suck at the judicious use of anything, particularly bolts. Do you think hikers spot the draws and polka dots on the walls at the New, the Red, and other Eastern sandstone crags? We're talking wilderness here, though, and it isn't about what people see, it's about whether we give ourselves license "comfortize" that wilderness. Once you start, it is indeed a slippery slope no different than running fixed lines up every 7000+m peak in the world, selling tickets, and turning them into garbage dumps.

If you read the Kelsey guide, he speaks to self reliance. Getting yourself off the most well travelled route in the region is a good first step.

turning them into garbage dumps

We're talking wilderness here, though, and it isn't about what people see,

Yeah John Hemlock, damn you for climbing a popular route. f--- is wrong with you man? If you followed Murf's guidelines you would never have climbed it to begin with. Which of course begs the following question... why'd you climb it Murf?

Sounds OK to me.