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What goes on in your head while leading?
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wonderwoman


Oct 3, 2005, 6:26 PM
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That's funny! Yesterday after doing a lead that challenges me mentally (I'm slowly getting into 5.7 trad now), I thought to myself that if I had a loudspeaker in my head that people would think I was crazy! My crazy voice came out like never before on a climb that was well within my ability.

I just want to say that I did a climb that was on my tick list and I had followed it before.

At the crux, my rational voice: 'Okay, this isn't really an overhang... If I step to the right and get my feet real high I can just step over onto the ledge.' Crazy voice: 'Or I could just downclimb... ' Rational voice: 'NOOO NOOO DON'T DOWNCLIMB, ARE YOU STUPID?' Then I obeyed my rational voice and moved on.

At the point that I wasn't sure where the route went so my crazy voice said: 'YOU'RE LOST. NOW YOU'RE SCREWED. HOW THE HELL ARE YOU GOING TO GET OUT OF THIS ONE NOW? NICE GOING, GENIUS!'. Then my rational voice said your gear is good, there are foot holds galore and you could not fall off this route if you tried. ' Suddenly I see the holds and I'm off again.

Now here is where I really started to laugh at myself. I'm about 5 feet from the top and its a bulge where it's not clear whether I should go right or left and I can't see the bolts that I know are just over the bulge. Crazy voice: 'HELP HELP HELP! THE BOLTS ARE GONE YOU'RE GOING TO FALL YOU DON'T KNOW WHERE TO GO YOU'RE SCREWED YOU'RE SOOOO SCREWED!' At this point I found a nice solid nut placement and moved on right to the top.

When I got down my belayer said 'Nice lead. You looked really smooth and confident!' :lol:


boardline22


Oct 3, 2005, 6:40 PM
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life is mellow


equal_1


Oct 3, 2005, 6:57 PM
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the first thing that goes threw my mind is the song i will be climb9ng to on this route.... i usualy try and think of a song to have going threw my head while i climb ....... next is this is why i spent all that money i better start using this stuff.......and the third right as i get above the last piece i placed .."Theres that feeling i was looking for" ...... as i start to let the fear ..panic...and excitment help me threw to the next piece.....oh and back to my song of course..... but thats just me im sure


lishe


Oct 3, 2005, 6:57 PM
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I am a noob, but here is my trad lead algorithm:

Check knots, belay;
Issue commands;
Find first placement off belay to avoid factor 2 fall;
Go;

while(!dead() && !done()) {
Climb();
Evaluate();
Breath();
}

boolean done() {
if (at belay ledge) return true;
if (at top) return true;
return false;
}
boolean dead() {
if( uncounscious || !breathing) return true;
return false;

}
Climb() {
Find best holds. Move each limb accordingly.

}
EvaluateSituation() {
if(oh shit?) print "Falling!";
else if(over my head?) print "Oh Shit!, off route"; downclimb;
else if(time to place gear? && goodplacements exist?) { place gear; }
else { findnextrestspot(); }
}
Breath{
take breath; hum a tune if scared;
}
findnextrestspot() {
Look for good holds; time to place gear should be at that spot;
}


ajkclay


Oct 3, 2005, 7:20 PM
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Re: What goes on in your head while leading? [In reply to]
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The next move, that's it.

I find that when a placement opportunity arises I notice it and use it without having to be thinking about when to place.

Also once I have placed I forget about it, no point thinking about something that has been done, it just wastes available processing resources on something that can't be changed.

Basically I think about the current task at hand. If placing, I think about that. If climbing I think about that. If pumped I think about resting. If stuck, I route find or look for alternatves.


Partner euroford


Oct 4, 2005, 5:37 AM
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so i'm the only one that thinks of food and boobies??


cfnubbler


Oct 4, 2005, 6:25 AM
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Recently, it's been some of my daughter's Rafi music. Driving me f$cking nuts, actually.

-Nubbler


blueeyedclimber


Oct 4, 2005, 6:42 AM
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so i'm the only one that thinks of food and boobies??

You think of food? That's weird! I find that the thought of boobies gets me through just about everything.


king_rat


Oct 4, 2005, 7:57 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
The second biggest issue to overcome, IMO, is to realize that sewing up a route will often use up your gear AND pump you out quicker. Sometimes running it out IS the safest option.

This is bullsh!t.

IF good gear is there for the taking, and you choose to pass it by, then you are confusing style and safety.

If you don't know how to find rests, learn.

If you are not up to protecting a route adequately, then do an easier route.

Never pass up a bomber placement, you might not get another.

A lot of people get hurt running it out for whatever reason. Those who get in good gear and hang may not get a clean ascent, but they live to climb another day.

IF you climb enough, you will get your share of runouts. Don't create runouts where they don't exist.


You’re talking out of your arse. But then again people who say “you must never do…..” generally do. On a 20m crack do you place a peace of gear every foot? By your logic you should be. The point is that you have to achieve a balance between safety and efficiency. On a long multi pitch route do you really have the time to lace the route with gear?


onbelay_osu


Oct 4, 2005, 10:00 AM
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Usually I try not to think about the fact that i am on the sharp in...I find that putting the idea that i am run out of my head helps me a lot.... most of the time, i get the dumbest 80's commercials stuck in my head in fact most recently I have had the dumb dumbs theme song stuck in my head.

CHERRY AND GRAPE AND WATERMELLON TOO...
CREAM SODA, NOW THAT'S A LOLLIPOP FOR YOU...


rockkid55


Oct 4, 2005, 10:32 AM
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Yes, I also think : "Why the hell am I climbing instead of drinking beer and watching baseball? God! I'm never climbing again!"

But then I always do.

And it's true about "the higher you get, the safer you get." At least with leading. I'd much rather fall on my tenth placement than my second. Cuz, see, then I'd probably just sprain an ankle on a ledge instead of break every bone in my body on the ground.


ucfrockclimber


Oct 4, 2005, 11:28 AM
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No offense but Lishe you are a dork/nerd. However sadly I understood everything you said :-P.


wings


Oct 4, 2005, 11:53 AM
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In reply to:
so i'm the only one that thinks of food and boobies??

5 points of contact is better than 4.

- Seyil


imnotclever


Oct 4, 2005, 12:14 PM
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My partner is a huge Bob Dylan fan. So recently when we were climbing It Ain't Me Babe was going through my mind. But I reall don't know the words so it was only a few lines over and over and in no particular order, they were:

I'm not the one you want, babe,
I'm not the one you need.

Someone to open each and every door,
But it ain't me, babe,
No, no, no, it ain't me, babe,
It ain't me you're lookin' for, babe

I'm not the one you want, babe,
I will only let you down.

Someone who will die for you an' more,
But it ain't me, babe,
No, no, no, it ain't me, babe,
It ain't me you're lookin' for, babe

You say you're looking for someone
Who'll pick you up each time you fall




acacongua


Oct 4, 2005, 1:02 PM
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I think about wild monkey sex. That's why I breathe heavily sometimes.


johnhemlock


Oct 4, 2005, 1:54 PM
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Ween lyrics


deepseaclimber666


Oct 4, 2005, 2:27 PM
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"Breath... oh s**t... breath... place a piece... slipping s**t... breath..."

Lol all the normal crap, wheres my last piece, whats the next move, ect ect. Mostly my mind is blank with intermittent moments of mind blowing terror. Gotta love trad climbing!


Partner gamehendge


Oct 4, 2005, 3:25 PM
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Ween lyrics

nice.


lishe


Oct 4, 2005, 7:14 PM
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In reply to:
No offense but Lishe you are a dork/nerd. However sadly I understood everything you said :-P.

:lol: there needs to be a nerd icon on here


vegastradguy


Oct 4, 2005, 7:27 PM
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easy terrain: I tend to focus mostly on the movement and the day. i make sure to put pro in before and after moves that cause concern as well as pro to keep me from getting hurt should a fall occur.

difficult terrain: I focus on getting pro in to prevent a fall. I focus on resting when possible. I focus on the sequence of movement required to get to the next rest spot/pro spot.

and sometimes i think about food and boobies. :lol:


boardline22


Oct 4, 2005, 7:42 PM
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I think about......

wait for it.....


wait......


You MOM!!!! :lol:


tradrenn


Oct 4, 2005, 7:44 PM
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It's all good, you can do it man, you 've been there before, you gonna be fine.
Sometimes there is a little Pink Floyd in my head:

"All you touch
All you see
All your climb would ever be"


king_rat


Oct 5, 2005, 5:17 AM
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when im climbing well, nothing. I go in to automatic pilot where all the thoughts of where my next gear placemtent is going to be go to the back of my head.

Whn im climbing badly, it runs somthing like this

ok hands good, feet ok, got to move.....don't want to leave safty... try higher hold..its okay ...move ...sh1t its not okay...coming off ...yess...no ...go for next hold... got it ....geargeargear, number 4..no number 5...tugtug its good ...clip...got to move on ...but done want to leave safty...move ....fcuk foots sliding...its okay move again ...how good was that nut ... get another in etc etc .


hyhuu


Oct 5, 2005, 5:19 AM
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"Where is Mommy? I want my Mommy"

or "Where the hell is the foothold? "


dirtineye


Oct 6, 2005, 3:00 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
The second biggest issue to overcome, IMO, is to realize that sewing up a route will often use up your gear AND pump you out quicker. Sometimes running it out IS the safest option.

This is bullsh!t.

IF good gear is there for the taking, and you choose to pass it by, then you are confusing style and safety.

If you don't know how to find rests, learn.

If you are not up to protecting a route adequately, then do an easier route.

Never pass up a bomber placement, you might not get another.

A lot of people get hurt running it out for whatever reason. Those who get in good gear and hang may not get a clean ascent, but they live to climb another day.

IF you climb enough, you will get your share of runouts. Don't create runouts where they don't exist.


You?re talking out of your arse. But then again people who say ?you must never do?..? generally do. On a 20m crack do you place a peace of gear every foot? By your logic you should be. The point is that you have to achieve a balance between safety and efficiency. On a long multi pitch route do you really have the time to lace the route with gear?

Rat, you've already established yourself as a true idiot in many other posts, you don't have to keep trying so hard.

Work on your reading comprehsnsion. Moron.

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