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lightrack
Oct 16, 2005, 11:29 PM
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I was recently looking at the "Ascended Yoga Masters" beta and was wondering if anyone on rc.com has fired the third pitch (someone obviously has). Wondering if the 50 foot run-out is the 5.9 crux of the pitch or if its somewhat casual (ie. good feet the whole way). The second question being if it would be possible to bail w/ 2 ropes from the belay just prior. (leaving webbing).
Any beta, suggested similar routes (done: honeymoon, longbow, kor-ingals, north chimney.....going to give poseidon adventure a go prior to the yoga masters) or suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks,
patrick
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 17, 2005, 8:27 AM
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Bump...
Lightrack and I will hopefully be getting on this around thanksgiving....
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 18, 2005, 8:23 AM
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bump
see if we get anything today....
perhaps light should change the title to include the word 'Moab'?
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 19, 2005, 10:43 AM
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Anyone?
I figure if I bump this enough, someone will see it.
Any info is appreciated
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guanoboy
Oct 19, 2005, 11:04 AM
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Just got back from an epic on this sucker. We topped out at dusk after a late start and retreating from the crux section before finding a well protected alternative. The 5.9 runout crux is insane - it is not only a 50' runout but the runout starts 50' up a chimney. I can't believe anyone ever had the sack. Anyway - my partner and i found a well protected variation see description below. As for difficulty, it is hard to say with offwidths. I was as sketched out and exhausted leading the last 50' of chimney as i am on 5.11 trad (i thought it was harder than the fine jade finger crux). Oh yeah, scope out the 5th class descent. We got a rope stuck descending the route. Its still up there. It is a 120' rap from the fixed pin.
gear: 8-10 long slings/cordallettes, one set #0.5 - 5 camalots with 5 #1's and 2 #2's; 1 yellow, 3 green, 1 blue alien;
Stay high on ledge with tv antenna to gain access to the start of the route - an right arching chimney, obvious from the road. The start is about 200' left of the tv antenna. The first pitch starts with a 5.9 layback boulder problem and quickly leads to a fun squeeze to wide chimney, 120' to belay pin. Protect using long slings on chockstones. At this point we diverged from the original route - moving directly to the back of the chimney (4th class) and 20' up a fun hand crack and onto a large chockstone, 100' 5.9. From the chockstone the business begins. A 5.10 hand crack/ layback crack leads up about 30' until it possible to begin stemming. Stem or layback another 130' in a bizarre setting to drilled warthogs at the top of the arch. There is a crack that sucks up #1 camalots at the back of the arch. We broke this section into 2 pitches. The second pitch takes yellow to green to blue aliens. We think the original ascent used this portion of the climb but it is unclear from the route description in Bjornstad. From the warthogs move about 40' out on ledge and belay near a balanced block (5.7). Stand on the balanced block and aid through 3 bolts to 5.7 face climbing and the top (50').
We couldn't find the 5th class descent. A better description of its location would be appreciated.
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 19, 2005, 3:37 PM
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Thank you for the response/story/beta. Sounds like a wild time!
Hopefully others will respond as well...
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 19, 2005, 7:18 PM
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Regional discussions are for "Beta on climbing Areas from around the world" whereas the mountain states forum is more intended for meeting partners.
The other bonus is that it's linked to Castle Valley in the RDB.
Oh yeah, Bump. :wink:
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guanoboy
Oct 20, 2005, 12:11 PM
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Where were you "recently looking at route beta"? I've never seen anything anywhere but the Bjornstad guidebook.
Has anyone repeated this route????
Where is the 5th class descent?????
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lightrack
Oct 20, 2005, 2:01 PM
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Thanks for your route input, I really want to try this thing, maybe using the variation you mentioned, as it sounds safer. I was looking at the Bjornstad book...which sometimes is off on route beta or gear (reason for this post). My friend Keith has done the "Cable Route" aka the descent, and said it was a good "hike". No rope and in tennie's.
I checked the climbingmoab and rc.com for beta and looked in other books for beta (Fred Knapp's "Classic Desert Towers" & Earl Wiggins (involved on the FA) book "Country Classic Climbs"), but no luck.
Following the chimney to the back seems to make good sense. It sounds like it gains the same crack that the third pitch eventually traverses into from above. A cool sounding variation to an obscure route.
Any other Ascended Yoga Masters Online?? :mrgreen:
Thanks again,
Patrick
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guanoboy
Oct 20, 2005, 4:45 PM
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Well that's a wicked pissah. My buddy and i spent a miserable night on the mesa top because we couldn't find the descent. When you are on the top looking down it looks like 200 + foot drops in every conceivable direction.
definitely find that hike off before going up and be really careful about loose choss in the back of the chimney.
k
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 21, 2005, 9:40 AM
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In reply to: Well that's a wicked pissah. My buddy and i spent a miserable night on the mesa top because we couldn't find the descent. When you are on the top looking down it looks like 200 + foot drops in every conceivable direction. definitely find that hike off before going up and be really careful about loose choss in the back of the chimney. k
It sounds like were going to do the Cable route first to scope the descent out. Thanks again for the info.
Has others here done the Cable route? or perhaps other routes on Parriott Mesa? I'm starting to get excited... :D
Tom
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