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bler
Oct 17, 2005, 9:03 PM
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ok, so i'm planning my first trip to j-tree with my gf.. i'm stoked
probably going to be a mostly bouldering trip for me, but I would like to hear from the locals what would be some good easy, asthetic trad(or sport) routes to take her up on (5.8 and under) ?
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caughtinside
Oct 17, 2005, 9:11 PM
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There's a guidebook which has 60 quality climbs listed from 5.5 to 5.9. Sounds like it might be what you're looking for.
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erclimb
Oct 17, 2005, 9:14 PM
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i'm no local, but i love j-tree
southwest corner on headstone rock is a wild 5.6 sport route--very exposed but moderate climbing
on echo rock try double dip (5.6) and stichter quits (5.7), both sport
the bong is a fun 5.4 trad route; atlantis wall also has moderate trad
sail away (5.8-****) is my favorite j-tree route; it's always the last route i do before i leave...sweet hand crack with great pro...but very popular--leave camp by 8 am and be the first of the day, otherwise, take a number
lazy day is another popular trad route (5.7); lickety splits (5.7) is fun but way runout at the end
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asioux70
Oct 17, 2005, 9:27 PM
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Hey I recommend some fun 5.7 then work your way up to 5.8, theres some fun stuff. A fun slab is Stichter Quits (5.7) bolts on top for anchors walk off over at Echo Rock, Tiptoe 5.7 (trash can rock) bolter pro for anchors. Andromeda Strain 5.7 (Pro) Quail Springs. On Hemingway Buttress White Lightning 5.7*** (Pro), Dung Fu 5.7* A fun one to do is Headstone the 5.6 sw face bolted, the exposer is great. Bolts on top and rap from the backside over in Ryan. For a fun 5.6 in an openbook is Mikes book on Intersection Rock also the flake a 5.8 on Intersection both takes pro. for Mikesbook there are bolts for anchors and rap, for the flake there are also some bolts and you can also place some pro for anchors you rap off by the skitracks. 60mm rope will work.
For a beautiful 5.8**** crack you must do "SailAway" bolys on top for anchor and rap. If your good with nuts and hexes it takes great passive gear. Double Cross 5.7**** fun crack to 3" bolts on top use caution at the beginning it's a little tricky it's on the oldwoman, also Dogleg 5.8*** CRACK another fun one is toe jam 5.7**. The flue is also fun 5.8*** Chimney rock to 3". Dinky Doinks in Lost horse on tiny tots wall is fun beautiful hand jams. So just to name a few. Have fun. and safe climbing. Armando
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bler
Oct 17, 2005, 9:34 PM
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In reply to: There's a guidebook which has 60 quality climbs listed from 5.5 to 5.9. Sounds like it might be what you're looking for.
umm, yah, guidebooks can only give so much info, besides what guidebook are you talking about.. any guidebook definatley recomends talking with locals before trying ANY of the climbs.. besides what one book might think is 'classic' could be complete garbage (ya, run into that before)
thanks for the info erclimb ;) and thanks beforehand !
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jt512
Oct 17, 2005, 9:44 PM
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In reply to: ok, so i'm planning my first trip to j-tree with my gf.. i'm stoked probably going to be a mostly bouldering trip for me, but I would like to hear from the locals what would be some good easy, asthetic trad(or sport) routes to take her up on (5.8 and under) ?
Double Cross, Sail Away, Walk on the Wild Side, and White Lightning.
-Jay
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caughtinside
Oct 17, 2005, 9:50 PM
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Sorry bler,
I don't know the name of that guide. It's something like 'The trad guide to Joshua Tree, 60 favorite climbs from 5.5 to 5.9' but I'm not exactly sure.
I've done most of the routes recommended by others here, they've all been pretty good.
However, if you've never been to JTree before, navigating around the different areas can be a challenge, and would probably be impossible without either a guidebook or someone to show you the way. But, you might be able to borrow one in camp, or something like that.
Have a great trip.
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slobmonster
Oct 17, 2005, 9:59 PM
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I've observed this on each of my trips to Josh:
Newcomers with a particular route in mind will be stumped, stymied, and even frustrated by the mind-boggling abundance of climbable rock in the area.
The best advice I've ever received, and will herein repeat: pick out a climb that looks/sounds good, find the area it's in, and spend the day there. You will be surprised at how much your eyes open up if you only give them the chance.
Or, you could just roam around Hidden Valley CG with your pad.
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bler
Oct 18, 2005, 1:29 PM
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so witch campsites are the 'walk-in' ones ? these are the ones listed as pay (the falcon guide says there is free camping) sites..
Belle 3800' 18 $5
Black Rock 4000' 100 $10 $10
Cottonwood 3000' 62 $10 3 $25
Hidden Valley 4200' 39 $5
Indian Cove 3200' 101 $10 13 $20/35
Jumbo Rocks 4400' 124 $5
Ryan 4300' 31 $5 $5
Sheep Pass 4500' 6 $20/35
White Tank 3800' 15 $5
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winglady
Oct 18, 2005, 2:42 PM
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In reply to: I don't know the name of that guide. It's something like 'The trad guide to Joshua Tree, 60 favorite climbs from 5.5 to 5.9' but I'm not exactly sure.
http://www.JoshuaTreeTrad.com
I'm going to miss our usual Colorado group October climbing trip to JTree 'cause we're in the process of moving --- so I'm quite jealous of your plan. Ah well, we'll manage to make it out there soon once we get settled again.
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fredbob
Oct 20, 2005, 6:37 PM
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The "Trad Guide" is a good resource if you have a limited time and are interested in crack climbs under 5.9 (no sport or face climbs listed).
The routes suggested by others are good as well. The idea of going to a particular area and spending the afternoon is an excellent one (rather than driving around trying to find the next area/climb).
Word of caution, notwithstanding anything you will read or be advised, it is a good idea to avoid the following crags as they are overcrowded and/or overrated (as to being worthwhile): Lizard's Hangout, Atlantis, Dairy Queen Wall, or The Thin Wall.
Rock Garden Valley is a nice spot with a number of good routes from which to choose, as is Hemingway Buttress (Echo Cove & Echo Rock can be crowded, but you can choose other climbs to do). If it is cold/windy and it looks like the day is a washout, head to The Corral Wall in Rattlesnake Canyon (near Indian Cove). Probably the warmest, most protected spot in the Park.
Have Fun.
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keinangst
Oct 20, 2005, 7:48 PM
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The internet can be a harsh and unforgiving realm, often forcing you to open a new window and perform cold, calculated searches :D
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0972441395/qid=1129837648/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i1_xgl14/103-0497079-0667811?v=glance&s=books&n=507846
The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree: 60 Favorite Climbs from 5.5 to 5.9
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grabngrip
Sep 4, 2008, 4:25 AM
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so i did a search and came across this discussion. im going to J-tree for the first time the end of this month. Im looking for some easier sport climbs and boulders (no harder than 5.9) any suggestions will be great. I found a book at REI i'll probably pick up. Thanks. 
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jt512
Sep 4, 2008, 4:33 AM
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grabngrip wrote: so i did a search and came across this discussion. im going to J-tree for the first time the end of this month. Im looking for some easier sport climbs and boulders (no harder than 5.9) any suggestions will be great.
Going to J Tree in August for moderate bouldering and sport climbing? Nice work!
Jay
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dlintz
Sep 4, 2008, 4:40 AM
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jt512 wrote: grabngrip wrote: so i did a search and came across this discussion. im going to J-tree for the first time the end of this month. Im looking for some easier sport climbs and boulders (no harder than 5.9) any suggestions will be great. Going to J Tree in August for moderate bouldering and sport climbing? Nice work! Jay
Jay, it may be September now but I have to agree with your response.
d.
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grabngrip
Sep 5, 2008, 12:58 AM
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am i missing something?
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sungam
Sep 5, 2008, 1:14 AM
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it could be... er... cold at J-tree.
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jt512
Sep 5, 2008, 2:00 AM
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grabngrip wrote: am i missing something?
Having had forgotten that it was September already, I was thinking that you were planning to visit a crag renowned for its absence of exactly the type of climbing you are looking for, during the hottest part of the year. By the end of September, though, at least the temperatures should be considerably less punishing.
Jay
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snoopy138
Sep 5, 2008, 2:30 AM
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jt512 wrote: grabngrip wrote: am i missing something? Having had forgotten that it was September already, I was thinking that you were planning to visit a crag renowned for its absence of exactly the type of climbing you are looking for, during the hottest part of the year. By the end of September, though, at least the temperatures should be considerably less punishing. Jay
Come on Jay, I think there's at least one crag in the park with a couple 5.9 and under sport climbs.
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i_h8_choss
Sep 5, 2008, 4:28 AM
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k.d. supreme and miledi boulder problems have the BEST rock in JTree. near the west entrance. anyone agree?
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curt
Sep 5, 2008, 5:08 AM
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No.
Curt
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grabngrip
Sep 6, 2008, 12:41 AM
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thank you, thats what i was looking for
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i_h8_choss
Sep 6, 2008, 4:32 PM
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Yes.
Chad
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