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phaedrus
Oct 19, 2005, 4:34 AM
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On October 17, 2005, Tommy Caldwell free climbed the Nose of El Capitan in less than 12 hours with only one fall on the entire route (on the 5.14a Changing Corners pitch). Beth Rodden-Caldwell belayed him on the ascent; Caldwell led every pitch of the route. This is the second free ascent of the Nose and the first one day free ascent by a male. For more info:
http://climbing.com/news/nosefreeinaday/
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manacubus
Oct 19, 2005, 5:46 AM
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Awesome news - they're certainly getting familiar with that piece of stone!
Given that the achievement is listed as 'free in a day' I gather that after falling, Tommy lowered back and re-climbed the Changing Corners pitch free? Does anyone know?
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mistymountainhop
Oct 19, 2005, 6:14 AM
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Good Gawd,
Caldwell is out of f-kin control!! When does this guy stop?!?
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slablizard
Oct 19, 2005, 6:44 AM
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YES!
Tommy is...look at his eyes in the pictures and see the "Motivation" inside them. Humm but he fell once..so Lynn is still stronger!
Did Beth climbed it too? What a couple guys. hm?
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climbinginchico
Oct 19, 2005, 7:07 AM
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In reply to: YES! Tommy is...look at his eyes in the pictures and see the "Motivation" inside them. Humm but he fell once..so Lynn is still stronger! Did Beth climbed it too? What a couple guys. hm?
I believe Lynn Hill fell a few times on her one day ascent too...
Three, from reading her book. On the Changing Corners Pitch.
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t-dog
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Oct 19, 2005, 7:25 AM
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Looks like the guy is running out of hard things to climb on his side of the pond!
Methinks a trip to Europe to get on some hard sport routes would be a good idea for him!
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pinkydancer
Oct 19, 2005, 12:17 PM
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I woke up this morning, and my roomate had written on my whiteboard "Tommy FREED the Nose!!!"; quite a wakeup call this morning!
Dude, that's awesome!
I always thought Tommy would be the second one to do it. :o
Awesome awesome awesome.
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jackscoldsweat
Oct 19, 2005, 12:56 PM
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In reply to: Looks like the guy is running out of hard things to climb on his side of the pond! Methinks a trip to Europe to get on some hard sport routes would be a good idea for him!
not to shoot down the integrity of hard sport routes in Europe (or any where in the world), but do you really think that any hard sport route can compare to climbing the nose in a day? It would be anticlimactic to levitate up a bolted sport route after such a great achievement as freeing the nose.
JCS
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solo
Oct 19, 2005, 2:24 PM
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Well for example Bellavista by Alex Huber (8c+) in Dolomites, is not exacly a clip-up. :wink:
Ratikon in Switzerland hosts lots of hard multipitch "sport" routes, which rarely see red point ascents, although due to the type of rock, most of the hard pitches are bolted.
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jackscoldsweat
Oct 19, 2005, 5:03 PM
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In reply to: Well for example Bellavista by Alex Huber (8c+) in Dolomites, is not exacly a clip-up. :wink:
uh...your right...it's not...friggin pegs with very little integrity.
Props to Alex, but Bellavista is not a sport route IMO.
so your retort is off center.
JCS
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forkliftdaddy
Oct 19, 2005, 5:45 PM
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The thing that makes me smile is the "first male" label. Instead of this being simply the "first" this or that, it must be labelled "first male." So often the guys step up first. But not this time. Don't get me wrong. I think Tommy and Beth are awesome, true inspirations, but this reaffirms Lynn's place in the pantheon.
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thebingman07
Oct 19, 2005, 6:51 PM
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who fucking cares what he does next, the dude freed the nose.
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t-dog
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Oct 20, 2005, 9:48 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Looks like the guy is running out of hard things to climb on his side of the pond! Methinks a trip to Europe to get on some hard sport routes would be a good idea for him! not to shoot down the integrity of hard sport routes in Europe (or any where in the world), but do you really think that any hard sport route can compare to climbing the nose in a day? It would be anticlimactic to levitate up a bolted sport route after such a great achievement as freeing the nose. JCS
So what are you saying? The Nose is the holy grail of climbing?
Well, shit, if that's the case, then he might as well retire now that he's got that one taken care of!!
It's not all about granite and being 2000 feet off the deck, in case nobody had informed you of it...
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jackscoldsweat
Oct 20, 2005, 1:27 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Looks like the guy is running out of hard things to climb on his side of the pond! Methinks a trip to Europe to get on some hard sport routes would be a good idea for him! not to shoot down the integrity of hard sport routes in Europe (or any where in the world), but do you really think that any hard sport route can compare to climbing the nose in a day? It would be anticlimactic to levitate up a bolted sport route after such a great achievement as freeing the nose. JCS So what are you saying? The Nose is the holy grail of climbing? Well, s---, if that's the case, then he might as well retire now that he's got that one taken care of!! It's not all about granite and being 2000 feet off the deck, in case nobody had informed you of it...
t-dog...read it again ya jackass. i never said it was the holy grail. i never said it was the apex of climbing accomplishments.
your reading comprehension sucks. i hope you are not over in the land of noodles trying to teach them english. of so, they're doomed.
and that my friend...is all.
JCS
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joshy8200
Oct 20, 2005, 1:42 PM
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Freed that thing in just under 12hrs...jeez that's smokin' fast. And I agree that while it is really cool to hear about the latest 15a/b/c...hearing about feats such as this (or aid routes going free, Dean Potter linking Half Dome and El Cap, the Nose going free) is really inspiring to me.
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robreglinski
Oct 20, 2005, 1:49 PM
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Encore well done Beth and Tommy Encore
i have to say that i have been lacking in climbing drive over the past few months but hearing this and reading Beth's bit in alpinst 12 has spurred me right back into it. spain here i come
europe has a few lines that hold their ground to the Nose for diffrent reasons, remember that its not cold in Yosemite but it is in the Alps. Troll Wall grab anyone? some of these routes are very commiting.
Althought i have to say it (coz im from the uk)
what have they ever done on grit?
(however i hate to know what those guys could do to the climbing on our little island.)
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shiggetyshiva
Oct 21, 2005, 1:17 PM
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Freeing the Nose with one fall, sending lots of other hard routes, and escaping from AK-totin' guerilla soldiers in Kyrgyzstan... Tommy Caldwell has definitely paid his member dues in the hard man club!
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captiancareless
Oct 21, 2005, 5:56 PM
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In reply to: Freeing the Nose with one fall, sending lots of other hard routes, and escaping from AK-totin' guerilla soldiers in Kyrgyzstan... Tommy Caldwell has definitely paid his member dues in the hard man club! |
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outsideguyzak
Oct 21, 2005, 6:07 PM
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congrats Tommy and Beth! ONE FALL, less that 12 HOURS!!!! That is amazing. Go Tommy and keep up the good work man. What a machine!! I'd have to say that in my opinion Tommy Caldwell is definitely the most inspirational climber out there.
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wzrdgandalf
Oct 21, 2005, 7:21 PM
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I recently asked how hard the wall was that jack osbourne was supposedly climbing and got an answer that seemed to be written in greek (too many terms im not used to seeing, im just a lowely boulderer and sport climber in my first year). So i was wondering if anyone could tell me in english how hard the nose is to free? I know that is very hard but i also realize that one pitch may very well be a 10b for example. I was more or less wondering how hard the hardest pitch goes at. 13ish? thanks, eventhough i dont truly know the magnitude of the feat i have a massive respect for the accomplishment and I am asking this because i would like to understand the full scope of what he and lynn have done.
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wzrdgandalf
Oct 21, 2005, 7:29 PM
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I would like to know how hard the nose is to free. I realize that a few pitches might go at 10ish, but what are the hardest routes? 13ish? I am very impressed by this feat, but i dont really understand the true scope of an accomplishment like this. I really would like to get a grasp on how amazing this is so if anyone could put it in perspective i would appreciate it. keep in mind im just a lowely boulderer and sport climber climbing for about a year.
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lancebrock
Oct 21, 2005, 7:38 PM
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they both freed the nose on the first trip up in 4 days and had to climb the changing corners and great roof a couple of times to get it without a fall. the second time only tommy freed it and he fell once on the changing corners, lowered, then re-climbed that pitch free with no falls. so, he climbed it ALL free but it took 2 shots to get one pitch free which is incredible.
lots of pitches on the nose are 5.10 or under. the 2 really hard ones are the great roof, 13b and the changing corners 14a. or something like that.
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wzrdgandalf
Oct 21, 2005, 7:46 PM
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i hate it because i posted one and then it didnt show up so i wrote another, nothing like looking like a dumba$$. sorry for the redundant posts guys/girls
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jacquesjones
Oct 21, 2005, 10:05 PM
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Is the changing corner a "trad" pitch and was he placing the gear as he's going? There are not so many grades of 5.14 trad.
Still remarkable accomplishment!
The 'changing corner' is a great name.
I think Caldwell's are better than me at climbing.
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lancebrock
Oct 23, 2005, 6:31 PM
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it is primarily a trad pitch. there are bolts on a variation and i think you clip one of them on the free part.
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