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nebkhat
Oct 24, 2005, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Oct 18, 2005
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I started gym climbing sometime in '98 and continued until 2002. During that time I met a good friend that pushed me to my limits. I am a fast learner in everything that I do and Steven could see that. Starting out I was a 5.9 climber but was cleverly forced to lead 5.11 sports. I was told they were 5.9's and 5.10's. I have since lost that climbing partner to a career in nursing and in 2002 I bought a Harley. That is when all of my climbing adventures ceased. This year I sold the Harley and am excited to get back onto the rock. Most people have to, after quitting for some time, lose wait to fit back into their harness, I however have bulked up for the better and remained well toned. So I must make a new purchase of a harness as well and find a new climbing ring. My entire life as a climber is not the reason for this short story, so I will continue in introducing the title of this short introduction "my first 5.12 lead." The last climb I remember leading was at Clear Creek in TN. Of about 10 gathered around no one could finish this climb. It was located far past Steven King Library, into the Balcony Area I believe, hell I think that it was the farthest known climb in the Clear Creek area. Either way the gear was staying on the rock and the owner, an out of towner, was not happy about it. He had completed the first two bolts and could go no farther. I had just come off of a climb near it (Double Feature I think) and was told, once again by Steven, to jump on this climb and clear the gear. The sun was setting and we were packed up for our hike back. My response was, "it looks a bit beyond my abilities." Steven informed me that it was only a 5.10b. I responded with a grin and asked "then why can no one else complete it?" Without hesitation I tied myself in. After climbing the corner and traversing the dihedral to the right, I gazed at the crux. It appeared to be a two or three finger hold, no footing, the ground only about 20 feet below, and the last gear placement about 10 feet to my left. The rock face was angled slightly out just above adding more difficulty to the crux, it was intimidating as hell to be honest. Well time was short and the gear had to be cleared. There was no room to pop off of this one, so I captured what little breath I could and worked my way through the crux. Silence filled the canyon as I clawed my way through. It was to my surprise that following was a nice dusty horizontal crack to slide my hands into. I nearly slipped out of this commenting "not many make it this far, there is a lot of dirt up here. I gather what little strength remained and pulled my way through the rest of the climb to victory, the shuts. The climb was fantastic and my adrenaline was pumping. After that I saw the most deserving and spectacular sunset from the top of this "unknown" climb. With everyone shouting for me to descend, due to sun setting, I cleared the gear and placed my feet on the ground. After a bit of congratulations I was informed that it was a 5.12 and had I popped in the crux I would have swung laterally into the rock. With a smile I handed the gear to it's rightful owner, who was pleased to thank me. I do not remember what the climb was called nor it's official grading, what I do remember is that it was a hell of an accomplishment and I was grateful for being pushed to my limits. This is the serene joy that I have always found in climbing. People have often asked "what church do I attend." My answer was always the same; "I climb religiously on Sundays. There is no getting closer to God than hanging off of a cliff praying Oh God please don't let me fall." Now after losing the fear of death, my thoughts will be "if it is my time God then cut this rope, I am ready to fall." No, I am not religious, I just enjoy being close to nature and experiencing all of the great feelings that come with being a climber. I am new to Rock Climbing.com and am searching for a new climbing ring in Knoxville. If anyone is looking for a new partner to add please feel free to contact me. Also, if you know the climb that I am speaking of above please let me know. I must add it to my tick list as I have no dates so I must complete these climbs again, darn, lol.
Nebkhat,
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booger
Oct 26, 2005, 9:12 AM
Post #2 of 17
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Registered: May 23, 2003
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Hi nebkhat,
Welcome to rc.com and congrats on getting back into climbing. I'm sure you'll find a great new group of folks to climb with! :D
Taz
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thinksinpictures
Oct 26, 2005, 9:36 AM
Post #3 of 17
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
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Congrats on your first .12, though you're clearly still working hard on your first paragraph.
:lol:
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overlord
Oct 26, 2005, 10:38 AM
Post #4 of 17
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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nice story, but you REALLY should use paragraphs.
you know, like this :wink:
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heiko
Oct 26, 2005, 12:43 PM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
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paragraphs are for the reader what a good resting hold is for the climber.
congrats :)
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neekwan
Oct 26, 2005, 3:21 PM
Post #6 of 17
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Registered: Dec 24, 2004
Posts: 19
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Write only what matters then I might read your post. I don't have time to read an article right now.
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sidepull
Oct 26, 2005, 3:52 PM
Post #7 of 17
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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In reply to: Write only what matters then I might read your post. I don't have time to read an article right now.
This from a noob. Go back to lurking and don't bother others with your time commitments.
Nice job with the .12!
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zenyetta
Oct 26, 2005, 3:57 PM
Post #8 of 17
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Registered: Apr 30, 2005
Posts: 38
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Nice story.
Yes, paragraphs are fabulous! But I loved your story. I feel the same way about running and climbing as you do. SO when I read your story it really hit home with me. God luck getting back into climbing
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neekwan
Oct 26, 2005, 11:11 PM
Post #9 of 17
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Registered: Dec 24, 2004
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You guys are right. I'm sorry for my previous comment. It was mean and not necassary. So, I'm sorry, Nebkhat. Great climb! And I'm sorry to everyone for being negative and spoiling a good thing!
neekwan
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robbleebob
Oct 26, 2005, 11:38 PM
Post #10 of 17
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Registered: Jun 20, 2005
Posts: 16
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YEAH! There should be more stories about sweet climbing experiences! Welcome back :D
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raymondjeffrey
Oct 27, 2005, 12:48 AM
Post #11 of 17
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 361
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I am still in search of my first 5.12 so excellent job and congrats.
Neekwan is a good person because s/he apolgized for an impulsive statement. That takes guts just like tackling your first 5.12.
Carry On,
Jeff
P.S. As I have said before: "Be nice".
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nebkhat
Oct 27, 2005, 11:55 AM
Post #12 of 17
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Registered: Oct 18, 2005
Posts: 5
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Thank you everyone for the great responses. I apologize for the single paragraph that is not my normal writing style. I have learned from experience with PhPBB and other forums that if you time out you lose everything. Now I write in a different application and cut and past. I gather that I was either to involved in the story that I missed the paragraphs or lost them due to the cut and paste.
"paragraphs are for the reader what a good resting hold is for the climber. "
Well said heiko.
neekwan - Thanks for apologizing. We all have our bad days and It takes a good person to apologize. I would wonder why you did not just stop reading, did it just keep your attention or was it the lack of paragraphs, :lol:
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overlord
Oct 27, 2005, 12:09 PM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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In reply to: Thank you everyone for the great responses. I apologize for the single paragraph that is not my normal writing style. I have learned from experience with PhPBB and other forums that if you time out you lose everything. Now I write in a different application and cut and past. I gather that I was either to involved in the story that I missed the paragraphs or lost them due to the cut and paste.
yes, thats sometimes a problem, but i have never timedout in a post. i did once with an article though.
anyway, if you do timeout, just hit the back button. sometimes what you typed is still there. or you just copy the stuff you wrote into the clipboard.
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sidepull
Oct 27, 2005, 4:21 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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In reply to: Neekwan is a good person because s/he apolgized for an impulsive statement. That takes guts just like tackling your first 5.12. P.S. As I have said before: "Be nice".
well said.
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snakeman
Oct 27, 2005, 9:12 PM
Post #15 of 17
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Registered: Feb 25, 2005
Posts: 12
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Troll. No one can be that dumb.
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jayteefiveseven
Oct 27, 2005, 9:30 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Jan 25, 2004
Posts: 52
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i know that climb. i did it in '86 wearing blown out EBs with tube socks. it seemed about .11b/c+ to me.
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nebkhat
Oct 28, 2005, 2:09 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Oct 18, 2005
Posts: 5
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In reply to: Troll. No one can be that dumb.
Thank you for that warm comment snakechild. It is nice to know that there are people as positive as yourself in this community.
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