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rjtrials
Oct 17, 2005, 2:08 PM
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On the 15th of October, Dai Koyamada got the 7th ascent of Action Direct.
In 14 years, the route had seen only 5 ascents, and now 2 in 2 days!!
Congrats Dai.
RJ
source:
FreakClimbing.com
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phaedrus
Oct 17, 2005, 3:37 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to World Climbing News.
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cacophony
Oct 18, 2005, 4:16 AM
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I heard through the grapevine a pretty interesting rumor...that Dai was planning on soloing it, but its still just a rumor!
Cacophony
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tomma
Oct 18, 2005, 1:45 PM
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the overhanged part is short, and in general you don't get too high, but a fall from the last moves would be problematic..
but you don't consider a fall when you solo, right?
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moonshine505
Oct 18, 2005, 1:56 PM
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I wondered if you could boulder it since Rich Simpson said it's 11 moves long, I watched inertia2 the other night to see Iker's ascent and he pulled about 15 moves before the "jugs" at the top. the way I understand it is that there is a slab you march up before clipping the first bolt and tackle the crux first move, so it looks like if you blew the first move, you'd roll down the slab, looks nasty.
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daithi
Oct 18, 2005, 3:13 PM
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On the movie of Iker Pou's redpoint it said he fell something like 30 times right at the top at the last throw. The move seems to be a throw with your right hand from a crimp for your left and a mono for your right to what seems to be an alright hold. If you were bouldering it you definitely wouldn't want to peel at this point!
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cacophony
Oct 18, 2005, 5:44 PM
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I heard of this rumor last Feb. in Hueco from one of his sponsors, could of been just heresay, but it doesn't look much higher than The Fly and Jason Kehl soloed/bouldered that!
I think Dai would use lots of pads and spotters just like Jason did. But again this is still only my opinion and thoughts of what he might have planned. Maybe after doing the route he's discovered that he doesn't want to solo it???
Cacophony
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hasbeen
Oct 25, 2005, 1:02 AM
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It's a lot higher than The Fly. The "slab" is actually overhanging just slightly and your feet are probably close to 15' off the ground when you clip the first bolt. While you would most likely live falling off the route from anywhere you would also get hurt, for sure, if you fell from anywhere unless you put a high jump mat underneath. Pads wouldn't cut it. The holds are positive, so I could see someone choosing to solo it if it were truly well below their max ability. But falling off would not be an option.
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rainontin
Oct 25, 2005, 1:55 AM
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Markus Bock just got the 8th ascent today or yesterday or tomorrow or whatever today is in Germany. Damn. As for soloing the route, if one indeed peeled from the top, they could just grab a treebranch behind them a la John Yablonski.
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climbsomething
Oct 25, 2005, 1:57 AM
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OK, call me a meanie pants, but now that the thing has seen 8 ascents, and the last few in quick succession, is it really news anymore when somebody (famous or not) climbs it?
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hasbeen
Oct 25, 2005, 2:27 AM
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yeah, sure, there is a tree there. it's a damn site higher than short circuit though.
when bachar soloed father figure he said he thought if he blew the mantel at the top he could kick off the rock and land on the rock off to the left. so, hell yeah, you could easily just lower off of the tree. i could see jackie chan doing this, no problem.
as for news, two weeks ago it was still news. at this rate it'll be a trade route before the first snow hits.
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pbjosh
Oct 25, 2005, 2:31 AM
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Sounds to me like a group of people who all had planned for and projected the route were together working it and the energy probably helped them all send...
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alvchen
Oct 25, 2005, 2:43 AM
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I really would love to see video of their sends. Methinks that either people have gotten much stronger as a whole or they have unlocked some kind of new beta.
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hasbeen
Oct 25, 2005, 7:38 PM
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people are WAY stronger.
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tomma
Oct 27, 2005, 9:18 PM
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hey climbsomething, yes it is still news,
notice that the route has been available for a while and it's easy to get there and try it (even i once climbed the first part till the overhang;-),
you should consider who's tried it and failed (e.g. sharma);
it should still be considered a benchmark 9a..
if there have been 8 ascents only in 15 years or so, i'd say there are 8 people minus one (late Guellich) who are capable of doing 9a, now look at the inflation of 9a climbers and draw conclusions from it..
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wolfeman
Oct 30, 2005, 7:57 PM
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I think the increase in number of ascents of Action Directe in the last year says loads about the overall increase of ability in top climbers.
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