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codhands


Oct 28, 2005, 12:41 PM
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Allez...Allez...Allez
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I just got done watching Petzl Video Of Dave Graham's on-site I believe of "Baston a la maison" in France. The climbing was cool, but observers were cheering him on screaming allez, allez, allez, which I believe to mean GO, Go, Go, in French.

My Question is: Is it annoying or distracting to anyone to have a bunch of people yelling send, or go, or allez, whatever at you when you're climbing or do you prefer silence with a few yeahs, or nice thrown in.

I prefer silence.

http://www.petzl.com/...tic/Video/baston.htm


edge


Oct 28, 2005, 12:52 PM
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For a send of that magnitude, the climber and the rock should be in constant give and take communication, to the exclusion of all else.

I routinely have the kids that I coach try to make jokes and disrupt the climber on the wall, because many times, at large indoor events or crowded crags, they will be subjected to much outside noise. The trick is to ignore it, and only listen to the rock.

I once explained this to one of my burgeoning 11 year old climbers, and I really knew that she understood when she lowered from a finishing hold and told me, "I could see all of the moves in my head, and all I heard was a buzzing in the background."

I bet Graham was also buzzing in your scenario...


codhands


Oct 28, 2005, 1:04 PM
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In reply to:
I bet Graham was also buzzing in your scenario...

Yeah it did in fact look like he was buzzing....


cfnubbler


Oct 28, 2005, 1:22 PM
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Very interesting footage...the way he moved, it looked like he was redpointing. So decisive and aggressive. Most onsights I've observed involve more obvious problem-solving and experimentation. He just nails every sequence in that clip.

Perhaps this a result of the editing, or maybe the stars were aligned and he just absolutely nailed it all. Either way, impressive to say the least.

-Nubbler


roshiaitareya


Oct 28, 2005, 1:25 PM
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Did anyone else notice that it shows him pull the same move twice? At the beginning of the video, about 1/5 into it, it shows him grab a crack, then has a close up of his hand grabbing and then working his fingers into it. Then at the end, about 1/5 from the end of the video it shows the exact same move over again. I just thought that was interesting, I'm not sure why they would do that unless they ran out of material and wanted to make the video longer or something.


billcoe_


Oct 28, 2005, 1:46 PM
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In reply to:

My Question is: Is it annoying or distracting to anyone to have a bunch of people yelling send, or go, or allez, whatever at you when you're climbing or do you prefer silence with a few yeahs, or nice thrown in.

I'd just be happy if someone gave enough of a sh*it to say "Go Bill, Go!"


flatstateclimber


Oct 28, 2005, 1:49 PM
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I actually figured out my preference for this the other night at the gym. There was a problem that I'd been working for about 2 weeks. I had the beta dialed in, it was just piecing it all together continuously. Every time I got on the wall, everyone around me was trying to be helpful, shouting beta and encouragement. I couldn't reduce it to buzzing, and screwed it up about 5 times. When I finally sent it later, only one friend was watching and he was silent, save for a few "awesome"s or "nice"s. I guess my preference is minimal encouragement only--no beta please!

As for the Dave Graham vid, that's defnitely the same move 2x, roshiaitareya. My guess it they wanted to cut it in to make it longer for some odd reason. Sport routes are long enough on video, but I'm just a lowly boulderererer. What do I know?


codhands


Oct 28, 2005, 2:12 PM
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"GO BILLY GO!!!" :)


litleclimberchick


Oct 29, 2005, 1:02 AM
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i'm going to tell people only to yell the word "allez" repeatedly when i climb. it will be awesome...

:D


thomasribiere


Oct 29, 2005, 1:57 AM
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I say it so often when the climber is in a crux that I don't realise it anymore. the climber might actually like it, because it means that I'm paying attention to him as a belayer.


pk


Oct 29, 2005, 3:31 AM
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In reply to:
I say it so often when the climber is in a crux that I don't realise it anymore. the climber might actually like it, because it means that I'm paying attention to him as a belayer.

huh :lol:


chalkfree


Oct 29, 2005, 7:55 AM
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Personally I preform better under pressure, when I'm alone or the group is silent I sometimes can't seem to stick that mode when it all comes together. But when they're a couple people "encouraging" it doesn't really matter what they're saying it makes me start buzzing right away.


bandidopeco


Oct 29, 2005, 9:55 AM
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I think it kind of depends on the situation. (wow, do I say this to everything?)
If I'm kind of low on confidence, or am dogging it a little encouragement can do me some good. Other times I simply don't need it and then it doesn't really matter to me what people are doing.

Here it's usually "gamba!" which kind of sounds nicer then "go!" especially when repeated. hmm, maybe two syllable words work, but one syllable words don't.


sidepull


Oct 29, 2005, 10:18 AM
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In this situation, they're really the only group there (as far as I can see) so they can only bother themselves. I'm sure if Dave wanted them to be quiet he could ask and they would respect that.

I don't like it when I'm at a big cave climbing and people are loud because everyone can here it. In fact, on one occasion, I was bouldering at Oak Flats and there was a really annoying group of loud climbers that seemed to follow us around from area to area. The worst part was that the loudest guy not only sprayed a lot but he breathed really frickin loud while he was on the problems - maybe it added suction.

If you're going to have someone yell "Allez" it should be Klem Loskot - cause it sounds like if you don't send he'll beat you. That's motivation.


leewee


Oct 29, 2005, 12:58 PM
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as long as someones cheers come from their heart then i like it... but when people are just spewing out catchphrases they heard on a video i tell them nicely to shut up until they feel more inspired...


elshells


Oct 29, 2005, 1:05 PM
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once I start climbing. I don't hear anything.

Even when I am missing something and someone trying to help me out. Like "Why aren't you using that big jug" "are you going to clip that bolt"...I don't hear anything.

Just looking at the rock and planning what's next.


4togo


Oct 29, 2005, 1:40 PM
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When on rope... I prefer that people keep quiet, because if they talk I immediately tune them out... which means that if they try to tell me something important -- like "There's a bear down here! Off belay!" it'll sound like the teachers on Charlie Brown.. bla bla bla, bla bla, bla bla bla.

I've found that the best technique to discourage uninvited chatter (especially beta) from onlookers is to respond with a curt "I'm busy." If they're not braindead, they get the hint. If they are braindead, my belayer tells them to shut up :righton:

However... when bouldering? The more shouting, the better! It keeps me from being lazy.


mistymountainhop


Oct 29, 2005, 2:08 PM
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Actually that WASNT an onsite.

I read somewhere that it was his second try but for some unkown reason it is largely circulated as a supposed onsite.


boulderror


Oct 29, 2005, 2:49 PM
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ditto that. it was indeed his second try but some people call a second try a first attempt for some odd reason. that's why there was a lot of confiusion.


saxfiend


Oct 29, 2005, 3:03 PM
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The only time I hear people yelling "Allez...Allez...Allez" at me is when I'm hiking in on the approach trail . . . :?

JL


blitzkrieg_climber13


Oct 29, 2005, 3:14 PM
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i love hearing people cheer for me. the louder the better. i find i feed off the energy. it gives me more motivation to stick the next hold. also when its loud i find i get alot more into it and get animalistic on the rock. to "gush" as sharma says in the pilgrimage.


litleclimberchick


Oct 29, 2005, 3:40 PM
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In reply to:
The only time I hear people yelling "Allez...Allez...Allez" at me is when I'm hiking in on the approach trail . . . :?

yeah...me too... :roll:


guitarclimber


Oct 29, 2005, 4:10 PM
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I was in a bouldering comp. and my spotter ( a man i've never spoken to in my life ) just starts spewing off comments like "vamos cabron" "no te caes hijo de puta." It was oddly encouraging.


Partner bdplayer


Oct 29, 2005, 4:29 PM
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In reply to:
I was in a bouldering comp. and my spotter ( a man i've never spoken to in my life ) just starts spewing off comments like "vamos cabron" "no te caes hijo de puta." It was oddly encouraging.

That's funny....my climbing partner hears that all the time. He thinks it's encouraging because he doesn't speak spanish.


litleclimberchick


Oct 29, 2005, 4:30 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I was in a bouldering comp. and my spotter ( a man i've never spoken to in my life ) just starts spewing off comments like "vamos cabron" "no te caes hijo de puta." It was oddly encouraging.

That's funny....my climbing partner hears that all the time. He thinks it's encouraging because he doesn't speak spanish.

what does it mean??

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