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BigBear climbing Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
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Partner artm


Aug 5, 2002, 12:09 PM
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BigBear climbing Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
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Drove up to Bigbear Sunday morning and met up with Adam(rrrAdam) Karen(i.karen) and Robert(hangerlessbolt).
All great people to hangout with. I can't wait to hit J-tree with youse guys.
We hit some routes on Motherlode rock
Black Bart, Motherlode and another I can't remember. Then moved to the other side of the wall and did a few more whose names I don't even know (and I don't have my guidebook with me so I can't look em up).
Last we headed down to Amphitheater and hit the east wall (aka concert wall) and jumped on Claimjumper and Coyotes in the Hen House.
I'd like to thank Adam for NOT breaking off any of the key holds on Coyotes in the Hen House as I needed them when I flailed on it.

oh yeah nearly fell off a boulder and killed myself laughing at Rob and Adam.

[ This Message was edited by: artm on 2002-08-05 12:11 ]


hangerlessbolt


Aug 5, 2002, 1:10 PM
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Man, why is it that I'm always late for typing these tr's!

I met up with Karen and Adam Saturday morning at big bear lake. They followed me up to the pinnacles area. After several failed left turns down an unmarked trail (there are only about 20 of those out there!!!)...We finally made it to the base of Wilbur's tombstone.

We make short work of the three routes there...(I too left my guidebook at home...sorry guys...I'm sure Adam will clear this up)

Then we headed over to the backside of Motherlode rock. Adam set the draws on the first route…a short, but stout route with a nice two crimps to an armpit high high-step as the crux. (Can you say choss)…only a few hundred more ascents and that route will be nice and clean. Then I strung up a long route to the right of that…another stout, sustained climb. Once at the top I set up a tr for the route next to it…which from the ground looked to be the hardest on the wall. However, it turned out to be the easiest and one of the most fun routes there. Hidden gems all over it. Then came the last route on the wall. I got the lead. I make it through the opening moves to the crux roof. I look at it…and I’m trying to find the sequence…to no avail. I ask for beta…there wasn’t much to be had. After a few half-attempts…I said screw it, grabbed the draw and pulled myself up to a jug. Finished the route, but felt very much defeated by the crux that got away. Adam worked it on TR…and after ripping off what appeared to be a key sidepull (and nearly clocking Karen in the process)…he found a very obscure 3 finger pad “crimper undercling”…tucked his foot up under the roof, sucked his body up into the rock…and reached for the jug…he got the edge…he pressed off to the right a little more to work his hand up…and he GOT IT!!! He pulled the roof!!!…Super sweet!…we were all stoked.
After he pulled the ropes we bailed.

(to be continued…)


Partner rrrADAM


Aug 5, 2002, 1:26 PM
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OK kids... We all have a wall or two to give the details on. (Robert, Art gave me his booklet to make copies of, I'll scan and email to you. )

My walls:

Motherload West:
Highgrader 5.11c (Feels more like .10d) rrradam (Onsight), hangerlessbolt (Onsight), artm, i.karen
Stake Your Claim 5.11b (feels more like .10c) rrradam, hangerlessbolt, i.karen
Mighty Quinn 5.10c (feels more like .10a) artm (Onsight), rrradam (Redpoint), hangerlessbolt (Redpoint), i.karen, LD (Art's friend)
Long Arm Of The Law 5.11a rrradam (Redpoint), hangerlessbolt, artm

Motherload North:
Powder Keg 5.10b rrradam (Onsight), hangerlessbolt (Onsight)



Great crag, and plan to climb there often, as I can let the Pathfinder do the approach instead of my legs.


Very much enjoyed climbing with Art and his friend, and look forward to climbing with them again.

Robert is always fun and a strong climber. I think he will become a regular partner, for a while at least.



Plenty of pics to come.

[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-08-05 13:27 ]


toobigtoclimb


Aug 5, 2002, 1:29 PM
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Robert!

I told you not to be fooled by all of those left hand turns!


toobigtoclimb


Aug 5, 2002, 1:31 PM
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BTW...

Did you lose my guide book?


Partner calamity_chk


Aug 5, 2002, 1:34 PM
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hehehe .. Brian, you need to show him some Bugs Bunny or something ...

"Never, never, never make the left turn at Albuquerque"



hangerlessbolt


Aug 5, 2002, 1:50 PM
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Note to self: Find and destroy the pictures that Art took that almost made him fall of the rock laughing!

Brian...we missed you bro...Karen has a few things that she would like to say to you. I still have your guidebook.

Oh Ms. Amber, where were you and your wise words of advice when I needed them...? *grin*

Hey Adam...and why is it that we climb...? For the pictures...OF COURSE!!! and why do you gotta call me fat?

I'll finish up my TR and add some things later on*


Partner calamity_chk


Aug 5, 2002, 2:06 PM
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BigBear climbing Holcomb Valley Pinnacles [In reply to]
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Shoot, you know me ..

I've got more .02 than anyone wants or needs ... as for a sense of direction, well, that's another story entirely ...


i.karen
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Aug 6, 2002, 10:25 AM
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First of all, after I was done crying and being consoled for hours because To Big to climb never showed up it was a good day!!

I was so thrilled on Saturday to hear he was coming that I choreagraphed a dance and a song for him. I work all day and a sleepless night on this!! Sunday comes around and every minute I was running back to the parking lot to look for my lost friend!!! I made him a great breakfast that the animals started to eat later that evening. I could feel that something was missing that day!!! I carried on, wiped my tears and climbed anyways!!! It was a sad day in my life, the day when To Big To Climb broke My Heart!!!!!!!!




Karen

Everyone was trying to cheer me up and we agreed to change his name to, To Lazy To Climb

[ This Message was edited by: i.karen on 2002-08-06 10:30 ]


hangerlessbolt


Aug 6, 2002, 10:49 AM
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BigBear climbing Holcomb Valley Pinnacles [In reply to]
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You left out Toomuchofaflaketoclimb

You know I love ya Bro...but to see a grown woman weep like that...well it just broke our hearts. Adam was beside himself ...tormented really.

You should be ashamed of yourself!

[ This Message was edited by: hangerlessbolt on 2002-08-06 10:50 ]


toobigtoclimb


Aug 6, 2002, 10:50 AM
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Hey, what can I say? I'm a heart breaker.

You know, there are alot of important things in life. Home, work, school, babies. When I really sit and think about everything going on in my life, where does climbing really rate? What about the responsible things in life? Money, security, family? Aren't they really the important things? There is a time in every man's life when he has to weigh his priorities in life.

Luckily, that time has passed and I need to climb!!!!

I am, and will always be, Toobigtoclimb!

( BTW....Sunday was a little communication error between me and Robert. If I had known about your little dance.....Sorry)






i.karen
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Aug 6, 2002, 10:53 AM
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One day I will understand and the tears will stop flowing!!!!


Karen


toobigtoclimb


Aug 6, 2002, 10:55 AM
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I wish I got this much attention at home!


i.karen
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Aug 6, 2002, 11:05 AM
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Make it up to me!!!!

A box of candy, flowers and a elephant.
I don't know if my tormented heart will every be the same again!!!!


Crying Karen

[ This Message was edited by: i.karen on 2002-08-06 11:06 ]


toobigtoclimb


Aug 6, 2002, 11:08 AM
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A real elephant?


i.karen
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Aug 6, 2002, 11:11 AM
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Yes, REAL that would help the pain and then I could maybe forgive you!!!



Karen


toobigtoclimb


Aug 6, 2002, 11:15 AM
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BigBear climbing Holcomb Valley Pinnacles [In reply to]
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You know, real elephants are kind of hard to take care of...

Maybe you should start with a hampster.


i.karen
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Aug 6, 2002, 11:19 AM
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You don't have faith in me!!!

Now I am CRUSHED!!!!


toobigtoclimb


Aug 6, 2002, 11:25 AM
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OK..OK!!! I have tremendous faith in your ability to care for an elephant!!

It's just a little hard to find a real elephant on such short notice!

Now, before I start looking..Is Adam o.k. with you bringing home an elephant?

Because I don't want to show up at your door with an elephant and have you not want it.

They're kind of hard to return.

[ This Message was edited by: toobigtoclimb on 2002-08-06 11:29 ]


Partner calamity_chk


Aug 6, 2002, 11:31 AM
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Brian,

I must admit that I'm shocked at the way that you've hurt Karen .. completely aghast, taken back ... .. shoot, I even had to sit down when I heard the news .. I expected better of you .. shame, shame.

Sheesh .. a dance and everything .. wow, Brian, so disappointed.

Maybe *you* should have to live in Texas, the land of more responsibilities than climbing, and I'll live in California and raise climbing kiddos galore.


Dont worry karen, we've got your back ..



[ This Message was edited by: clymbr_chk on 2002-08-06 11:32 ]


toobigtoclimb


Aug 6, 2002, 11:33 AM
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I suppose you want an elephant now too.


Partner calamity_chk


Aug 6, 2002, 11:39 AM
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hehe .. no way, toobig .. I wanna PLANE TICKET to come out there and whoop yo' a** .. well, that and to climb with the wonderful and always pleasant i.karen, who you've managed to crush so thoroughly, so completely.

(shall I go on, karen?? .. hehehe .. )

Oh, BTW, e-tickets are fine .. just forward the itinerary to the email on my profile, or pm ... either way, i'm not picky .. )

[ This Message was edited by: clymbr_chk on 2002-08-06 11:42 ]


hangerlessbolt


Aug 6, 2002, 11:43 AM
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Now hold on...

In all the years that I've known Brian...he has never flaked on me until now...

Well, if you don't include the nights he promised to go to the climbing gym with me...or go on night hikes with me...

You know what...I think I'm getting a bit misty myself over here.

I want an elephant too!!!


Partner calamity_chk


Aug 6, 2002, 11:48 AM
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Oh, Brian .. and Robert has always spoken so highly of you ..

... well, I'm certainly glad that all of this came out in the wash before I flew all the way to Cali for a weekend to climb with you .. imagine my dismay if I were stuck with hangerless or something because you flaked on me like you have on i.karen (oops, no offense, there, Robert .. )


hangerlessbolt


Aug 6, 2002, 11:53 AM
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None taken...

I don't think I can hurt more than I already do.

I mean how would you feel when you finally came to the realization that your best friend has been avoiding you for months.

I was in denial...but I'm feeling better

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