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ambler
Nov 6, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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First Henry Barber's testpiece Whaleback Crack fell off, and took Torque along with it. Then the state's only recognizable postcard feature gave in to gravity too, scattering debris down the Cannon slabs. This weekend, in a third sign that the end of the world is coming, that car-door-sized creaking flake that several thousand climbers have hung on while they clipped the first bolt of Lies and Propaganda came down. Still chalk-covered, it has been rearranged as a comfly belay slab.
The first bolt is now disturbingly hard to reach; stick clip recommended until the thing gets retroed. The crux is notably more technical -- I'm calling it nine plus.
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chossmonkey
Nov 6, 2005, 9:50 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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Spooky.
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microbarn
Nov 6, 2005, 10:03 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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I had my first leader fall onto that bolt this summer. Crazy!
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jakedatc
Nov 6, 2005, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Yea.. saw that today. didnt notice at first but then the group on it came over and was like hey you notice the flake is gone? i was like WHOA
definitely needs a bolt down lower now to make that move safer.
sad to see such a damn good hold break :P
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landgolier
Nov 6, 2005, 11:06 PM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
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Man, the ominous sounds from that thing were what originally gave birth to my climbing slogan: "Fat Climbers with Bad Technique: we find the crap bolts and widowmaker blocks so all you skinny, talented fuckers can concentrate on pulling down"
Now to go call the guys that said, "don't worry, that thing's been like that forever"... :D
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jakedatc
Nov 6, 2005, 11:48 PM
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In reply to: "Fat Climbers with Bad Technique: we find the crap bolts and widowmaker blocks so all you skinny, talented fuckers can concentrate on pulling down"
THANKS!
- skinny fucker
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notch
Nov 11, 2005, 9:47 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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That's terrible! That was my first leader fall (and fall and fall) too! I was going to go back this weekend and kill it off.
Arrrgh, that's all I've thought about since...
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climberterp
Nov 13, 2005, 3:23 AM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2003
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I was on it today, I don't think the 'new' moves are all that bad. Granted it looks scarier not to have that friendly ol' flake to clip from, but it's still very doable (and I'm pretty short). Also, I liked having the new seat to belay from!
can't imagine seeing that thing come down!! :shock: it's a big one!
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jakedatc
Nov 13, 2005, 11:41 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Yep I got on it yesterday.. i believe it's still fine as is.. the bolt can be stick clipped if you're nervous the first time. The moves are different getting through that section but not any harder than the grade (tho not way easier like before)
still good times :)
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mcgivney_nh
Nov 14, 2005, 12:34 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2005
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I looked at that to day but failed to get on it, by the time it was open, I was freezin'
-Sean
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