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The perfect backpack for alpine climbing
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adeptus


Nov 7, 2005, 2:15 PM
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The perfect backpack for alpine climbing
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Iím looking to buy a new pack that wonít impede movement in the vertical, but I guess that has yet to be invented.
Iím basically looking for something that is narrow, so the elbows wonít bump into it. Also Iíve found it convenient that it isnít too long, so it doesnít rest on the butt when youíre looking up and arcing your back. The volume should be from 30L to around 60L and it should have ice axe straps etc.

Personally I like Lowe Alpine Neutrino 30, but it is not perfect. Millet makes some nice ones with really soft shoulder straps, so you can hardly feel that you wear it. Osprey has a few nice ones, but I think the back is a bit stiff (Ceres 50). BD makes quality packs, but I never had a chance to try any of those.

So what backpacks have you CLIMBED with and not felt it completely awkward to move around with?


tisakson


Nov 7, 2005, 2:17 PM
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Check out Cold Cold World packs. Very light and made for alpinists.


josephgdawson


Nov 7, 2005, 2:19 PM
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For a multiday pack, the ArcTeryx Needle 55 is wonderful. There is no extra shit or confusion on it, it is lightweight, and it is comfortable. It does not get in my way when I climb.


crito


Nov 7, 2005, 2:34 PM
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Cold Cold World packs are excellent. I have a Chaos that I like a lot for 2-3 day trips. For single day or summit type pack I have a Mammut Ice which has a lot of great features for carying weight but strips down for light weight summit days.


codhands


Nov 7, 2005, 3:07 PM
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I used to love my Dana Design Bomb pack.... until some A-hole stole it out of my car.


climbingaggie03


Nov 7, 2005, 3:17 PM
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I got a gregory Alpinisto this summer, and I really like it, it carries 55L, and you can strip the bivy pad, frame sheet, stay, and hip belt to shave off about a pound.


tempestwind


Nov 7, 2005, 5:11 PM
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I prefer the Gregory G pack. 8^)


Partner tattooed_climber


Nov 7, 2005, 5:15 PM
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if ya can find it used, get yourself a BD Mix Master....wicked sweet pack


roy_hinkley_jr


Nov 7, 2005, 5:24 PM
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My recent favorite is the Macpac Pursuit 50; burly, light, well-designed.


arostecrux


Nov 7, 2005, 5:49 PM
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You should read Ray Jardine's guide to ultralight backpacking...The guy that inventing the camming device has some better advice about your backpack. In summary, he suggest taking out the rigid plastic frame and aluminum stays. Why do you need them? When your bag is full, i mean stuffed, it has rigidity and there is no need for the mobility reducing aluminum frame. You will notice, if you ever try, that if you remove your frame stays and back board from your bag, it is INSTANTLY lighter.

Personally, I use the osprey aether 35 liter. ITs a very well made bag, very slinder and doesn't get in the way of my arms as I climb. Ideally you buy a bag that fits well, then take our siccors and cut off all the bullshit you don't need, take out the crappy metal frame that keeps you from moving well while your climbing, and then you may find yourself with a bag you like.

HOw much do you need? A nice shaped bag with padding and a few straps........


shaolincrimp


Nov 7, 2005, 5:59 PM
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Dude they're expensive but AMAZING @ wookey.net!!!


graniteavenger


Nov 7, 2005, 6:45 PM
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MEC has the genie on sale now. It is similar to the old Lowe Alpine Alpine Attack Summit (which I have). 30L capacity, axe loops, dead light (it'll stuff into its own lid pocket). If you are light, fast, and don't fill your world with gadgets and crap, it'll be an awesome bag for you. I have used mine in the french alps, scottish winter, bugaboos, everywhere. Granted an extra few litres would be nice in the colder seasons for bulkier gear, but if you are poor like me, you just have to grin and bear it. You can find really good bags in the second hand shops as well (sports junkies, etc).


Partner tim


Nov 7, 2005, 7:38 PM
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anything less than 3 pounds is good. less than 2 pounds is great, and less than 1 pound is either foolhardy or fantastic (you make the call). The more framework a pack has, the shittier it climbs (IMHO).

Personally I have a thoroughly beat to shit Arcteryx Khamsin 30 which 10 pitches of hauling, 20 weekends of ski touring, and god knows how many miles of humping have utterly failed to destroy. It's got a little duct tape here and there but overall it's still kicking. It weighs about 31 ounces, depending on how much duct tape and/or tool tube attachments it is wearing. So let's call it "about 2 pounds". That was my main criteria. It's also small enough, and its waistband slim enough (1.5" flat webbing) that it gets completely out of my way on aid routes and ice routes. Whee.

If I can get a decent price on a Granite Gear Alpine Vapor, I have this notion that perhaps it would be worth the additional pound, because the padding around the back seems comfier, and the straps seem to be a bit more compliant, and it can carry almost twice as much puffy stuff in the winter. But after a while the minimalist suspension on the Khamsin started to feel fine. And Granite Gear makes some great stuff sacks that smash down to depleted uranium density. So I keep right on using the Khamsin.

Before that I had a Savage Gear pack with just a fold-up bivy pad for a ''frame''. It was fine too, although with a big rack, the straps would dig into my shoulders, and I had to pack a little more carefully. The Savage Gear pack climbed pretty well. Pretty much any lightweight 30L pack seems to climb pretty well. I like tool tubes (or the Arcteryx/Granite Gear minimalist approximation of same) so every pack I've ever owned has 'em, and could be rigged to carry skis or a splitboard. The Savage Gear pack eventually disintegrated (after something like 5 or 6 years). The Arcteryx is on track to put in a similar performance. Not bad for $70.

The quandary for me is whether, with the added capacity of something like a Vapor, I would be a jackass and fill it with heavy shit. Best stick with the little beater, I guess... unfortunately I don't think Arcteryx still makes the Khamsin 30, and I think Savage Gear went out of business. Cold Cold World and Granite Gear may be the last best hopes?!?


alpine_monk


Nov 7, 2005, 8:13 PM
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Granite Gear makes some of the litest packs I have ever used. they get my vote all the way.

Dorian


anykineclimb


Nov 7, 2005, 10:06 PM
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In reply to:
MEC has the genie on sale now. It is similar to the old Lowe Alpine Alpine Attack Summit (which I have). 30L capacity, axe loops, dead light (it'll stuff into its own lid pocket). If you are light, fast, and don't fill your world with gadgets and crap, it'll be an awesome bag for you. I have used mine in the french alps, scottish winter, bugaboos, everywhere. Granted an extra few litres would be nice in the colder seasons for bulkier gear, but if you are poor like me, you just have to grin and bear it. You can find really good bags in the second hand shops as well (sports junkies, etc).

The Genie is an outstanding summit pack! On longer trips, I'll generally use it as a stuff sack; then use it on day trips.

Oh BTW, looking fo r a midsize pack. any thoughts on the Lowe Ion 60?
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/.../est./qx/product.htm


akicebum


Nov 7, 2005, 11:56 PM
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If you have the cash there are no better packs than Wild Things. If you think I am wrong go to the AK range and have a look at what most actual climbers are using. There are other options though. I picked up a mammut ice 45. It is a little bigger than what I wanted, and it doesn't have a crampon pouch. It's bomber, cheap, has good tool loops and a reinforced haul loop. BD packs are looking better and better. Cold Cold world makes a nice pack but the top is huge and can be cumbersome with a helmet, and like the Wild Things pack they have shafted tool holders which don't work with dual gripped tools. Go cheap, packs get destroyed no use in having one that you feel compelled to use, long after it has become useless just because you dropped a buttload of cash on it.


cchas


Nov 9, 2005, 6:28 AM
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As alreaduy mentioned BD and Cold Cold World are good for what you are looking for. Also check out Wild Things. Both the Ice Pac and the Andinista (which I've used in Peru and in Nepal, on top of the stuff in the US) are quality packs especially made for climbing (by the maniac Brouchard who knows about going light and fast since his routes in Peru and Chamoniox were years ahead of his time)


giano


Nov 10, 2005, 2:23 AM
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I use a CAMPack X3 600 (30l) and it is very a lightweight backpack (600g); it has also a pocket for crampons and a very good shape for my back.
The only problem is that you want to carry with you something more it has a little capacity, so you need a bigger pack and... bye bye free movements during climbing... :roll:


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