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Beta on Yankee Clipper
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climbfourteenk


Nov 8, 2005, 2:41 PM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2004
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Beta on Yankee Clipper  (North_America: Mexico: Nuevo_Le_n: El_Potrero_Chico)
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I am embarking on my first trip to Potrero during the week of Thanksgiving and was curious about the last pitch (15) on Yankee Clipper. It is listed on this site as .12a... I am a solid 5.10 leader (sport) and am not daunted by 5.11, but .12a is out of reach at the moment... can anyone comment on the possiblity of aiding the .12 moves on this route??? I know I can just stop after pitch 14, but standing on the summit would be ideal... Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Kris


cristodelaroca


Nov 8, 2005, 2:54 PM
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Registered: Jul 2, 2004
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Re: Beta on Yankee Clipper [In reply to]
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the register is in the 13Th pitch, the last two are like bonus, you should climb time wave zero, it has also a 12 a but you can aid it and the summit is way cooler.


mingleefu


Nov 8, 2005, 2:57 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2003
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Re: Beta on Yankee Clipper [In reply to]
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As I understand it, that pitch rated 5.12 or 5.10+ AO. The "AO" means that you can yard on the bolts to get past any moves harder than 5.10+. Go Go Go!


hazael


Nov 8, 2005, 3:01 PM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2003
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Re: Beta on Yankee Clipper [In reply to]
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A friend told me that the pitch could be done just by pulling your way up with the draws. I've never done it, I wanna send it all w/o doing that. If you carry a clip-stick I think you can summit the route easily.


cdb1386


Nov 8, 2005, 3:19 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2001
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Re: Beta on Yankee Clipper [In reply to]
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The last pitch has a bolt ladder. You can pull on the draws through the hard parts or bring some pocket aiders (slings)

It's a great climb, Enjoy!


spock


Nov 8, 2005, 4:50 PM
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Registered: Oct 19, 2003
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Re: Beta on Yankee Clipper [In reply to]
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i have done it and I'm sure anyone can pull on the draws, the bolt are close just when you need them. I also recommend you check time wave zero!!!!


mdude


Nov 8, 2005, 6:12 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2003
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Re: Beta on Yankee Clipper [In reply to]
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How many people can give the same advice.

MD


potreroed


Nov 17, 2005, 6:23 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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Re: Beta on Yankee Clipper [In reply to]
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The last pitch of Yankee Clipper is either 12c if you go straight up, or 12a if you climb on the left side and reach over to make the clips. You can probably climb it if you hang and rest at each bolt. If nothing else you will really enjoy the spectacular belay at the top of pitch 14.


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